URGENT EDIC problems (long)

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Cheers all!
I have some very annoying problems with the fuel control of the HJ60. The truck is a 1984 HJ60 with a 12 Volt system.
After we first put the new engine in, the EDIC tried to shut down the engine every 10 seconds or so. The control rod would slowly move forward, till it sputtered, and then quickly go back again, like a cycle.
We thought it was ground related, and cleaned up the grounds, and the engine ran fine then.
When first driving the truck, this problem returned, which made it hard to drive it, especially under load. Every 10 seconds or so (sometimes not regularely) the fuel control relay (pass side front kick panel) would click, and the engine would lose all power for the fraction of a second.
As a response I cleaned the grounds some more, and put an additional ground from the ECU housing to the frame (visible in pic1).
After that the truck ran beautifully for 2 days, but yesterday evening the same problem was back.
What could be the culprit? a bad fuel control relay? a bad ECU motor? What do I do to diagnose and fix the problem?
Also, there is an aftermarket relay in it (red in the pics, but I don't know where it wires to. Could be the glow circuit, but I am not sure).
I guess I have to unwrap all the wiring, and follow it...
Please let me know your thoughts, the truck is not drivable and relayable like this.
 
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The pics above are: wiring of the ECU, the ECU, and the strange relay.
here: wiring of the red relay, and the fuel control relay.
 
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by the looks of that relay outside you may want to open it up to see what it is like inside .
Oil px good ? maybe disable the low oil px shut off and see if it is part of the problem . DO this only for trouble shooting ! DO ot leave the low oil px disconnected as it is a great protection device .
If you did not change anything with the wiring harness during the engine change and only changed the engine , then check the engine oil px , or the related oil px to EDIC control harness

HTH'S , Daryl
 
Make sure the battery is good... once I had my edic problems I could still start the truck but the eidc was wonky. It's at least worth a check..
 
fjbj40 said:
by the looks of that relay outside you may want to open it up to see what it is like inside .
Oil px good ? maybe disable the low oil px shut off and see if it is part of the problem . DO this only for trouble shooting ! DO ot leave the low oil px disconnected as it is a great protection device .
If you did not change anything with the wiring harness during the engine change and only changed the engine , then check the engine oil px , or the related oil px to EDIC control harness

HTH'S , Daryl

I have not checked the oil pressure, but would low oil pressure not act up all the time. I agree that the relay looks bad, but have not opened it up yet.

Wes, the battery is good, all the contacts are clean, grounds are good, and the voltage regulator is new (old one was shot).

thanks
Jan
 
the oil px may be fine but the sending sensor may be a problem or maybe it is the oil px regulating valve acting up or maybe a bad oil pump or etc and etc...I am just saying to disconnect it for trouble shooting....it is a way of eliminating a possible area of concern...if it does not change anything then move on to the EDIC system , if it does rectify the problem then you have reduced you trouble shooting time quite a bit.

Electrical problems can suck especially if it is intermittant , I have a chattering glow plug relay I am trying to figure out, was going to check it today but it is snowing now !


HTH's , Daryl
 
fjbj40 said:
Electrical problems can suck especially if it is intermittant , I have a chattering glow plug relay I am trying to figure out, was going to check it today but it is snowing now ! Daryl

electrical issue .. for sure. Check not only your bat, your V regulator, also your alternator .. and it's function under load ( AC light radio etc .. ) maybe if you are running free ( no much electrical things on ) maybe your problem disapeer.
 
Hi Jan, got your PM....

I would also check that the fuel control relay itself is grounded very well to the body. It is grounded through the case... through the bolt that holds it to the body behind that kick panel. I solved some intermittent EDIC problems once by fixing this.

Also, not a bad idea to just run a wire from that mounting bolt on the fuel control relay directly to the negative post of your battery. I had a whole host of annoying electrical problems, until one day I ran a ground wire from under the dash where all my on-board electronics were grounded, directly to the negative on the battery. Everything started working much better.

There's a far outside chance that it could be the fuel control relay itself. I have had one go bad on me once. But check the easy eletrical issues first.

Peter Straub
 
If it is cycling it is likely the result of moisture in the fuel control relay, judging by the rust on your cover there is a leak somewhere above your kick panel.
I would remove the cover of the relay and have a look at the contacts etc and the amount of moisture or corrosion on the circuit board. Keep an eye out for cold joints on the board as well.

Sheldon
 
Thank you Peter! I will take it off and clean up all the contacts, and see if that helps. Intermittant problems are a real pain...

Also thank you Sheldon! yes, I think there must have been a leak at some point. Not enough rain for that here, but certainly in the previous life of the truck. I'll open it up and check for corrosion.

regards,
Jan
 
Jan,

I am not sure there is a ground from the battery to the body. If you recall that went to the engine, perhaps running a strap to the body might help. You can take the oil sensor off the 3b in the shop if you need to try another one on your 2H.

Cheers,

Michael
 
Its common.

Use your jumper/booster cables to make sure the engine, body, frame and batt- (the 0 Volt one if you have a 24V rig) are all well connected. More times than not this will solve the problem. If it does, you can leave the cables under your hood or clean up/replace the ground connections (don't forget the ground strap from the engine to frame).

If this doesn't solve it, go in the cab and connect your cables from batt- to the case of the edic controller.

It really helps if somebody is watching the edic do the funky chicken while this is going on. It'll straighten right up as soon as it gets a good ground and you'll know you've isolated the problem.
 
lowenbrau said:
Its common.

Use your jumper/booster cables to make sure the engine, body, frame and batt- (the 0 Volt one if you have a 24V rig) are all well connected. More times than not this will solve the problem. If it does, you can leave the cables under your hood or clean up/replace the ground connections (don't forget the ground strap from the engine to frame).

If this doesn't solve it, go in the cab and connect your cables from batt- to the case of the edic controller.

It really helps if somebody is watching the edic do the funky chicken while this is going on. It'll straighten right up as soon as it gets a good ground and you'll know you've isolated the problem.


Thank you, I'll play with it on the WE,
Jan
 
Jan-78FJ40 said:
Thank you, I'll play with it on the WE,
Jan

Good luck...all good advice given!

gb
 
Did you ever get this problem fixed?

Peter Straub
 
Behemoth60 said:
Did you ever get this problem fixed?

Peter Straub


Hi Peter,
I put a ground wire from the minus pole to the housing of the relay, as you suggested, and have not had a problem since, but I have only driven her for about 50km since.
I opened the relay, and it is pretty corroded inside, so I am getting a new one as well, to fix it for good.
I found out what the red relay is-it is a fabbed starter relay. I have a toyota starter relay coming, and will switch it out ( the red one just leaves the ground wire dangling around).
thank you, cheers,
Jan
 

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