Upper shock “pins” front and rear (1 Viewer)

[tls3601]

So I noticed both of these OEM parts 48533-60011 front and 48532-30011 rear are discontinued. They are the upper shock mounts. I think I can possible make due with the fronts, but one of my rears driver side appears FUBAR. Rig is a ‘3/76 manu date. Needs new shocks and as always one project turned into another. What are folks doing? Thanks

 

[tls3601]

Maybe @lcwizard Dave knows where to score these. Also the front upper pins what do folks use to hold the pin? Looks like you would need a super thin end wrench to hold the pin and keep it from spinning to loosen the nut to remove shock from upper pin.

 

[lcwizard]

Maybe @lcwizard Dave knows where to score these. Also the front upper pins what do folks use to hold the pin? Looks like you would need a super thin end wrench to hold the pin and keep it from spinning to loosen the nut to remove shock from upper pin.

I think I understand.
You're looking for the removable shock pin on the front tower and the upper rear which is welded into the frame tube over the rear axle?

My first gen front shock towers used a removable pin patterned after the stock pin but with about 3/8" extra length of thread. I had a machine shop build the pins. I tried for about ten years to build that style but sales on the towers were too slow, five pairs in a good year. The first batch of 100 pins lasted a long time. CNC Machine shops don't like tooling up for ten pins so I redesigned the tower to take an off the shelf bolt. The towers don't sell well enough to build the pins and 40 part sales are declining rather than increasing.
Best bet to get new pins is buy a set of used towers.
I replace the rear pins with the pins I used on my u-bolt flip kits. The threads are 1/2-20 rather than metric but if I have flip kits then
the nuts match top and bottom

 

[tls3601]

@lcwizard Thanks Dave. Do I need a special narrow end wrench to loosen the front upper shock nut to remove front shock? It just spins

 

[lcwizard]

@lcwizard Thanks Dave. Do I need a special narrow end wrench to loosen the front upper shock nut to remove front shock? It just spins

An impact might do it otherwise yes, that hex is pretty narrow. If the large nut on the back side of the pin can't be tightened to the point
the pin doesn't spin when removing the shock, either the threads on the pin are messed up or maybe the face of the tower around that hole is worn. When the large nut is tight, the pin shouldn't spin

 

[tls3601]

So my driver side rear upper shock mount is messed up. Looks as though the threaded “bolt” part of the upper pin snapped off at the area where the hole for the cotter pin would go thru. One of the PO’s decided to re-die the bolt to a smaller OD bolt! Seriously! And it had a smaller nut in that stud. So now that the bolt is shorter the weird nut won’t go on with the OEM inner and outer washers on either side of the shock bushing. So one of the previous geniuses “cut” the shock bushing on that side to make it fit. I am not a welder but have a good friend that is. So my question is: could the threaded part be cut off where it meets the pin and another threaded bolt be welded on? Of the correct size and pitch as OEM of course, maybe even with a hole for the stock cotter pin? Here are some pics. Three shocks on, lower mount is good aside from some broken off cotter pins in hole.

 

[tls3601]

Any welders out there with an opinion?

 

[tls3601]

Would like to get a stock size and pitch bolt on there.

 

[germaneighter]

I've posted this sketch some time ago. If you have access to a lathe or a machine shop this will replace the existing upper-rear one.

 

[65swb45]

There is a shock bolt that Rancho used to put into some of their 5000 series shocks that will work as a one-side weld-in option for the rear.Not strong enough for a hardcore wheeler. But probably strong enough for overlanding. I am probably going to end up using one of these on the SA nightmare currently residing at my shop. His old pin is another Wall Of Shame candidate

I have a box of used front pins.

 

[tls3601]

So not possible to cut off threaded portion and weld on a new threaded 12mm X 1.25 section. The old 12mmX1.25 section is no longer that diameter OR thread pitch. I imagine when old bolt snapped off at area of hole, a PO then took a smaller die and recut a smaller OD threaded section that is now too short for bolt to hold on outer washer as it can’t grab enough thread. So some genius cut away at the shock bushing. A real mess.

 

[tls3601]

I don’t have access to a lathe so wondering about the cut and weld option. I have a friend that IS a pretty darn good welder.

 

[65swb45]

Tom

How about thinking outside the box? On the FJ60, the shock bolt is hollow, and Toyota used a bolt with a body washer to secure the shock.

There’s more than one way to skin a cat.

 

[tls3601]

I got the front pins sorted, they were cleaned up and re-used. That rear upper is a PITA

 

[tls3601]

Well. Lots of good input. Much appreciated.

 

[81fj40]

I found some on crapazon that fit the bill. I also installed a new frame support for new shock pins.

 

[tls3601]

Thanks is the pin the same OD as stock piece? And how about thread pitch, length of threads, etc....... Thanks To

 

[B y r o n]

It's been a long time since I've looked into this but try looking a Camaro pin for the front top. Don't remember if the mounting threads were long enough though.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71OOi8bmZbL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

 

[tls3601]

Will get with company tomorrow on dimensions. Might be a winner, thanks for posting this up @81fj40

 

[81fj40]

Thanks is the pin the same OD as stock piece? And how about thread pitch, length of threads, etc....... Thanks To

Not sure, but it worked for me.