A bit closer shot
Upper oil pan arch seal renew (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter alia176
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1980 (10/79) BJ40 - B Engine - I just replaced the rear main seal about 2 months ago and my oil leak is bigger than it was before (4" pool every night). Cleaned it up and added UV to track and it is clearly coming from around the starter and the clutch fork. I am reading online about the Pan Arch Seal, but I can't find anything about it. Thoughts/Guidance?
Thanks - Josh
Thanks - Josh
What vehicle and what engine are we talking about here? I am going to guess fj or bj40? if so you don't have an oil pan arch as far as i know. Oil pan arch seal is on the 1fzfe which has two oil pans (upper and lower).
clx16 - Ahh - good to know! 1980 BJ40 (manufactured 10/1979) - B Engine.
The crank seal surface, did it have a groove worn in to it? and if so did you push seal in further to get back to flat sealing surface? being that it is coming out your clutch fork hole on the bellhousing.... i am going to say that you might verify the seal is still in place as oil typically moves south unless slung other directions... either that or you have oil getting in to the bellhousing from much higher.
I'll also see if I can see a leak higher, but I am pretty sure a redo will be required. Thanks!
Careful on my advise as I have no qualifications. But if you can safely push the seal in further past a potential groove i think that would be the typical "solution" on many shaft/wear groove situations.
I have a very small leak from what I think is the pan arch seal.
I am scheduling the process of having my local cruiser shop doing the HG.
Once we have the head off, is there any point in doing the pan arch seal at the same time?
I assume that the seal is done from the bottom so not much point but maybe I am wrong?
I wasn't too worried about it as it's a slow weep but I hate oil leaks of any kind.
I am scheduling the process of having my local cruiser shop doing the HG.
Once we have the head off, is there any point in doing the pan arch seal at the same time?
I assume that the seal is done from the bottom so not much point but maybe I am wrong?
I wasn't too worried about it as it's a slow weep but I hate oil leaks of any kind.
Not really a job for while you are in there as you need to lift the engine a little and disconnect the motor mounts to get the upper pan in and out. Can be done while head is being worked but not really benefitial to do at the same time.at least in my opinion
I agree with @clx16 on this with the exception to it being, if the truck is in the shop and torn apart anyway, maybe they can do the arch seal while the head is being rebuilt so they are still continuously working on it while someone else is rebuilding the head and they are waiting to get it back. Assuming they want to do it that way.
if the head is coming off take a good look are the rear heater lines. now is the time to replace those if you like the rear heater.
alia176
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #152
It's time I have to remove my upper oil pan due to the untimely contact between it and the front axle housing. Yup, it's completely my fault so I had to read up my own FAQ to refresher my memory.
So, as luck would have it or perhaps I'm also a tad psychic, three week ago I bought these two tools, thanks to a female toyota mechanic's reel that came across my feed. I think she's called the pixietoyotamechanic with multi colored hair and piercings. I highly recommend you pick these up.
This contraption is great for squeezing FIPG on to surfaces. I have to separate the oil pan #1 from oil pan #2 (aka upper) so a huge amount of FIPG will be applied and this tool is going to make lifes mucho mejor, as they say. The tuna can winder tool that comes with FIPG is annoying when you have THIS much surface to cover.
Edit: 5/26/25 the separation tool CAN'T be used to separate the upper oil pan from the engine block. I didn't even bother trying.
The next item is a tool that helps you separate oil pans from surfaces. So, in my case the lower oil pan will need to be separated from the upper oil pan. I'm not sure if I'll be able to use the same tool to separate the upper pan from the engine block but I'll find out. It's made to be used with a hammer. When I did this project ions ago, I used a LOT of FIPG so i'm hoping this tool will be useful.
So, as luck would have it or perhaps I'm also a tad psychic, three week ago I bought these two tools, thanks to a female toyota mechanic's reel that came across my feed. I think she's called the pixietoyotamechanic with multi colored hair and piercings. I highly recommend you pick these up.
This contraption is great for squeezing FIPG on to surfaces. I have to separate the oil pan #1 from oil pan #2 (aka upper) so a huge amount of FIPG will be applied and this tool is going to make lifes mucho mejor, as they say. The tuna can winder tool that comes with FIPG is annoying when you have THIS much surface to cover.
Edit: 5/26/25 the separation tool CAN'T be used to separate the upper oil pan from the engine block. I didn't even bother trying.
The next item is a tool that helps you separate oil pans from surfaces. So, in my case the lower oil pan will need to be separated from the upper oil pan. I'm not sure if I'll be able to use the same tool to separate the upper pan from the engine block but I'll find out. It's made to be used with a hammer. When I did this project ions ago, I used a LOT of FIPG so i'm hoping this tool will be useful.
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Man, just pull the engine. I won't ever do the upper oil pan in situ ever again.
alia176
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #155
I got everything done and buttoned up yesterday, then took Beastie up to the mountain for an evening hike. I took the liberty and updated my 1st post with more pertinent info. After 20 years, my body ain't what it was when the first post took place. The two tools I mention added a huge value to this aggravating process. Anything you can do to lessen the aggravation, just do it.
There was a lot of schmutz around the oil level sensor connection as well as the CPS sensor area so they've been seeping for years. Once i get the old one cleaned up, i'll take pics of the damage caused by the front axle truss impact.
There was a lot of schmutz around the oil level sensor connection as well as the CPS sensor area so they've been seeping for years. Once i get the old one cleaned up, i'll take pics of the damage caused by the front axle truss impact.
alia176
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #156
I did find something interesting when switching over the oil pickup from the old to the new pan. The mounting studs on the new pan was shorter, which was interesting. It was an easy fix but that's the only thing that was different between the two.
i actually popped open a #6 after the pan was on the table. That felt pretty awesome, I tell you what!
Arch pan where it leaks
i actually popped open a #6 after the pan was on the table. That felt pretty awesome, I tell you what!
Arch pan where it leaks
FPIG is suppose to encircle the bolt holes.
I’m pretty sure it was in my original manual. I bought that back in 2000. It was so beat up that I bought a new one and donated the old one to a newcomer to the sickness
I’ve done probably 30 pan reseals , all on my back BTW, and have always encircled the holes.
I’ve done probably 30 pan reseals , all on my back BTW, and have always encircled the holes.
