Upper oil pan arch seal renew

[landtank]

Contacted my buddy who has my original manual and he confirmed that I’ve not been following the procedure properly. It doesn’t show the FPIG around the holes.

But I’ve never have one leak, but when I’ve had to remove one it was damn near impossible. Likely because there is no crack at the edge to get started.

 

[Malleus]

Admittedly, it wouldn't hurt...and obviously hasn't.

 

[clx16]

You should always circle the holes if you are a diyer. You need to use up more fipg without it squeezing into the pan but you also paid good money for that fipg and next time you go to use it it will be hard as a rock and you want to feel like you got your monies worth.

That is what I was taught long before I ever owned any toyotas and I am sticking to it.

I have evidence to back up my theory as I have at least 2 tubes of hard fipg that I am keeping so that no one thinks I've stopped hoarding.

 

[alia176]

Admittedly, it wouldn't hurt...and obviously hasn't.

I was under it this morning before the drive to work and all is well. Granted, not a lot of mileage has been logged since Monday night but we'll see. Sure looks nice to see clean areas under the engine for a change.

I did the bolt hole circle thing originally when this thread was created but not this time on either oil pans so only time will tell I s'pose.

 

[Malleus]

I wouldn't know how to act if I got under a Land Cruiser that wasn't oily...I think I'd pour a gallon of oil in it really quick, just to stave off the heart palpitations.

I used to work with an Aussie who told me his dad would paint the underside of his 40 with used oil at every oil change, and then drive it through high grass so his mom wouldn't gripe about oil on the driveway. He said it didn't have a spot of rust on it and they lived on the coast.

 

[landtank]

From my experience it's kind of a pick your poison thing...wet and oily or dry and rusty.

 

[alia176]

You should always circle the holes if you are a diyer. You need to use up more fipg without it squeezing into the pan but you also paid good money for that fipg and next time you go to use it it will be hard as a rock and you want to feel like you got your monies worth.

Still trying to use up that FIPG on reattaching the sole back to my Chaco sandals . Looking around the house for other applications....

 

[glinskonian]

Some great info in this thread!
I have my transmission out currently (doing a 5 speed swap) and am in the process of replacing the rear main seal.
I have decided to not do the big upper oil arch job, but I do plan on removing the rear main seal retainer so I can reseal it with FIPG (and replace the rear main seal).

One question: it seems like the bottom of that rear seal retainer has FIPG, but the pan below the retainer was clearly pressed into it, creating the nice bead and seal.
I'm wondering if I only remove the rear main seal retainer, will it be fine to just apply new FIPG all around for a good seal? I'm concerned that this method wouldn't allow for the "compression" of the bead that one would get if you removed the pan/arch below this retainer.

 

[alia176]

Some great info in this thread!
I have my transmission out currently (doing a 5 speed swap) and am in the process of replacing the rear main seal.
I have decided to not do the big upper oil arch job, but I do plan on removing the rear main seal retainer so I can reseal it with FIPG (and replace the rear main seal).

One question: it seems like the bottom of that rear seal retainer has FIPG, but the pan below the retainer was clearly pressed into it, creating the nice bead and seal.
I'm wondering if I only remove the rear main seal retainer, will it be fine to just apply new FIPG all around for a good seal? I'm concerned that this method wouldn't allow for the "compression" of the bead that one would get if you removed the pan/arch below this retainer.

That is a great question, and I'm curious about the answer as well. Like you said, the new FIPG isn't getting the compression that is normal.

Curious, what 5sp are you going to - H151 or H152?

 

[glinskonian]

That is a great question, and I'm curious about the answer as well. Like you said, the new FIPG isn't getting the compression that is normal.

Curious, what 5sp are you going to - H151 or H152?

I just wrapped up this today and want to share a couple of tips for the next person.

Removing the oil seal retainer puzzled me for quite a while. It's really stuck on there and there doesn't seem to be any pry points, and even if there were, its very difficult to get the right angle to pry.

I ended up laying a pry bar across the back of the engine, which I used as a leverage point.

I then took an adjustable pry bar, and using my first pry bar for leverage, I pry'd the retainer off.
I don't think I would have gotten it off if I didn't have the adjustability of this pry bar.

2 of the ears have (very small) pry points. Or maybe they're not pry points but they were for me!
The first one is around the 9 o clock position (right where my pry bar is in the second pic) and the second is around the 2 o'clock position.
It took a lot of force to loosen it but it gave way eventually. I ended up doing most of the prying at one of these ears, but in sight I should have gradually pry'd each side, alternating back and forth.

The retainer and oil seal is back on the rig now. Hopefully that does the job and the seal holds.
Side note: I don't think I've ever used the word "pry" as much as I did above.

 

[glinskonian]

That is a great question, and I'm curious about the answer as well. Like you said, the new FIPG isn't getting the compression that is normal.

Curious, what 5sp are you going to - H151 or H152?

I went with the H152. Took months to get here from Japan. Tariffs killed me but I'm glad I have it now.