Upper oil pan arch seal renew

[Heckraiser]

Question for the brain trust:

Do I need a new o ring for the dipstick tube once I've pulled it?
Also, I removed the oil level float because it was easier than separating the wire connector. Should I buy a new o ring for that as well?

 

[icorradoi]

Question for the brain trust:

Do I need a new o ring for the dipstick tube once I've pulled it?
Also, I removed the oil level float because it was easier than separating the wire connector. Should I buy a new o ring for that as well?

I replaced both when I did my pan. Cheap insurance. Although, both are accessible at any time, so you could try your luck with the old gaskets and see if you have any leaks.

 

[Heckraiser]

OK, so I've done three failed "practice runs" putting the pan back up. I can't get it more or less into place pretty easily, but I can't get it to line up well enough to actually go the last inch (can't get it lined up on the 2 studs at the front). I'm not sure if the interference I'm getting is the actual studs (should I remove them?) or if it's the AC bracket.

As it sits now, I find the whole concept that you could re-install the pan without messing up the FIPG highly implausible.

Thoughts?

 

[Skeet]

OK, so I've done three failed "practice runs" putting the pan back up. I can't get it more or less into place pretty easily, but I can't get it to line up well enough to actually go the last inch (can't get it lined up on the 2 studs at the front). I'm not sure if the interference I'm getting is the actual studs (should I remove them?) or if it's the AC bracket.

As it sits now, I find the whole concept that you could re-install the pan without messing up the FIPG highly implausible.

Thoughts?

How high do you have the engine raised off the front mounts?

 

[Heckraiser]

Found the problem. Transmission dipstick tube was keeping the pan from lining up at the bellhousing, so I couldn't get it far enough back to seat on the studs.

It's up and installed (not yet torqued and lots of little dodads to still hook up. I still stand by my statement that re-installing the pan without messing up the FIPG is a mighty tall order. I found a smudge of FIPG on the bellhousing, but I laid it on pretty thick and I don't think I swiped it clean off. Might have a thinner spot somewhere. It did not audibly clunk on anything as I was putting it back in, so I might have just swiped the top layer of FIPG off. :/

 

[icorradoi]

I did a few dry runs first, before putting FIPG on. That seemed to help.

 

[Heckraiser]

I did several dry runs also, but none were quite perfect except the one right before the "wet" run.

Here are my takeaways for posterity:

• I did not need to remove the front driveshaft to get the pan out, but I absolutely had to remove it (just the diff side) to get the pan back in without bonking stuff on the way up. Sway bar definitely had to come out.
• Transmission dipstick bracket should be loosened and pulled to the side--I don't think that was mentioned in the OP.
• No need to remove the engine mount nuts completely, just back them off most of the way (top and bottom nuts) this will give you enough space to jack the motor up close to 2", which is plenty to do the job, and about as far as it will go before hitting the firewall anyway. This will make it so you don't have to worry about re-aligning them when you drop the motor back down.
• I used the jack under the crank pulley method. It works, but engine hoist would definitely be safer and give you more room to work underneath if you have that option. My motor dropped off the 2x4 a couple times as I was screwing around on the truck. To be clear, I was never in any risk to my safety, just the safety of the precious FIPG.
• I'm 5'8" 165 pounds and was comfortable just laying on the floor under the truck (2.5" lift and 35's). No jackstands were used. If you're particularly barrel-chested, you'd probably want to jack up the truck or park on blocks like the OP.
• Chopping out the steering/frame crossmember brace is really not a bad idea if you have a good way to re-attach it.
• And finally, this job sucked. I'd give it a solid on a 4-banana scale. My recommendation would be to hold off unless the leak is catastrophic. Or if you're planning to do any other major engine work (like the HG), pull out the whole engine and do it on a stand with a beer in hand.

 

[Fourrunner]

Getting ready to do a pan reseal on my 94. Post 67 had a list of parts needed for this job. When I search my favorite parts site, it said the oil level sensor gasket didn't fit my year cruiser (maybe mine doesn't have an oil level sensor?). Does anyone know what parts are needed for the 94?

Timing Cover Gasket 11328-66020
Oil Dipstick O-Ring 96721-19010
Engine Oil Level Sensor Gasket 90430-27001
1 Tube of FIPG

 

[alia176]

please add:
advil
band aid

 

[icorradoi]

please add:
advil
band aid

That's what beer is for...

 

[snow cruisin80]

Can anyone help with the torque pattern of the oil pan bolts on a 3FE?

 

[Stecz]

I just installed the oil pans and my little hint is... When you are seating the oil pan, keep your focus on the bell housing end and keep that lined up and slide the oil pan in place. It went in very smoothly that way. I guess the proof will be when I get everything re-installed and fill it with oil and it doesn't leak...

 

[WCBlueSky]

One note: if you have the misfortune of needing to remove your transmission, you can reseal the rear part of the pan arch (often the part that leaks) *without* removing the oil pans. You just need to remove the rear main seal retaining ring, which is held on by a few bolts.

 

[Stecz]

I have two more handy hints...
1) Before lifting the engine, disconnect the ground wire that connects to the intake manifold
2) think about disconnecting the little radiator hose at the top of the radiator. I ended up breaking the fitting and now a new radiator is in my future. Luckily, there is enough of a stub left that it's not an emergency.

now, shopping for a radiator.

 

[ChuckyInAus]

Looking at doing this in the coming weeks. Mine is leaving puddles. : (

Need to clean first to get rid of all the caked on Mud.

 

[ChuckyInAus]

Took some photos up the inspection port. I'm assuming the "Grey" gasket sealant is where it would be leaking from?

It's looking moist up there but that would be the pressure cleaner I used to try to get rid of some of the 30 years worth of mud.

Is it still worth while trying to clean the area and then try to see where the leak is coming from. Or is this definitive enough?

thanks.

 

[Malleus]

I've had mine over 10 of its nearly 25 years and it's always leaked from the rear main area. I've replaced every seal except the pan arch and it still leaks. I'm pulling the pan when I finish all my other projects and have nothing else to do.

FWIW, my feeling is that 20 years is a gracious plenty for the FIPG to last and it really needs to be replaced on all 80s about now (or sooner). Hard to tell from your photos. but if you've replaced all the other seals above the pan, and it still leaks, that's the only reasonable suspect left. Unless you're parking where a Harley-Davidson used to park, then all bets are off.

 

[alia176]

Took some photos up the inspection port. I'm assuming the "Grey" gasket sealant is where it would be leaking from?

It's looking moist up there but that would be the pressure cleaner I used to try to get rid of some of the 30 years worth of mud.

Is it still worth while trying to clean the area and then try to see where the leak is coming from. Or is this definitive enough?

thanks.

View attachment 2734855View attachment 2734856

Your pics aren't quite telling the whole story. See if you can use a mirror to see the origination of the oil leak. The rear main seal and the arch seal are about 1/2" on top of each other so they're hard to discern w/o a mirror. You can clean up the area then look at it after a drive and it'll be obvious.

 

[ChuckyInAus]

Your pics aren't quite telling the whole story. See if you can use a mirror to see the origination of the oil leak. The rear main seal and the arch seal are about 1/2" on top of each other so they're hard to discern w/o a mirror. You can clean up the area then look at it after a drive and it'll be obvious.

Thanks. I’ll clean it off and then take it for a drive. I’ll see if I can get a better indication of where the leak is coming from.
It’s quite a lot at the moment so assumed too much for the RMS.

 

[ChuckyInAus]

Been in lock down here for a week so finally got around to cleaning the area and take for a drive.
not sure now if its the arch or the RMS.

thoughts?