Upgrading from cable to synthetic - why keep roller fairlead? (1 Viewer)

[Octanejunkie]

I've seen several builds, on here and in person, that have synthetic line with a roller fairlead - like this one

I have the same ARB bumper and am concerned about my winch line snagging the build in roller bracket, let alone having issues with the rollers and the line.

I was thinking about cutting that welded bracket off the bumper to reduce line risk, and remove the roller fairlead to improve approach angle

 

[gnob]

i think it boils down to preferences.
there are delrin rollers available if you stay roller fairlead. it appears that fairlead isn't properly installed to the bumper.
otherwise, afaik, the arb bumper will need the offset hawse.

Offset Hawse Fairlead

The Factor 55 Offset Hawse Fairlead is specifically for applications with offset openings, such as some ARB-style bumpers. It's 1.5” thickness is thicker than the usual industry standard of .75"

www.factor55.com

 

[Jonathan Hanson]

There is absolutely nothing wrong with using a roller fairlead with synthetic line. It's better for the line, and it won't get caught in the corners as some fear. The only caveat is that you shouldn't use a roller fairlead (or a hawse, for that matter) that has been used with steel line, as the scoring caused by the steel will abrade the synthetic line. I use a Hawse Pro four-roller on mine, but a standard steel roller fairlead is fine.

 

[gnob]

There is absolutely nothing wrong with using a roller fairlead with synthetic line. It's better for the line, and it won't get caught in the corners as some fear. The only caveat is that you shouldn't use a roller fairlead (or a hawse, for that matter) that has been used with steel line, as the scoring caused by the steel will abrade the synthetic line. I use a Hawse Pro four-roller on mine, but a standard steel roller fairlead is fine.

View attachment 3452213

View attachment 3452214

the gap in the lower roller set would definitely catch rope.

 

[jht3]

I'm in the roller fairlead camp, especially on an ARB. My roller has never been used with wire rope. If anything, the synthetic line will experience LESS friction across rollers. on a tube bumper i had on a prior truck, i did have an aluminum hawse.

On an 80 ARB, you'll need an offset hawse fairlead if you do go that route. and in that picture, the roller is mounted too low and the rope is most likely scraping the steel bumper behind it.

while it MAY be possible to pinch a synthetic rope in the roller corners, you'd have to be severely off-angle to do that. i'm far from a hardcore winch user, so this possibility has never worried me.

 

[1911]

FWIW, I also run a standard Warn roller fairlead with synthetic line like @Jonathan Hanson , and I've never had the rope catch in a gap or corner.

 

[Jonathan Hanson]

the gap in the lower roller set would definitely catch rope.

No, it won't. There is no "gap." The Overland Expo training team once tried to make it happen and we couldn't. It's not an issue.

 

[greentruck]

Just a FYI, was in Harbor Freight today, buy some synthetic line to convert my Warn VR 10000. Posted signage and the synth line box itself all insisted you must use a hawse fairlead...

 

[MountaineerLC]

Roller fairlead for me as well on my 100. JMO, but the roller looks better on the ARB and adds zero bulk as it sits recessed in the bumper. As said above, nothing wrong with using a roller fairlead as long as it’s in good condition.

On a side note, the manual that came with my HF Apex winch actually shows a roller fairlead allows you to winch at more of an angle vs a hawse.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Hey all, just as a side note on cutting off the bracket for the roller fairlead. ARB insists that you not do so as it isn't crash rated without it. I assume it is because they didn't have it tested without it. Anyway, not all hawse fairleads are built equally. A good hawse will be thick enough and have enough radius like the factor 55.

I currently run factor 55 1.5" offsets on my cruiser and sequoia.

 

[gnob]

View attachment 3639101

Roller fairlead for me as well on my 100. JMO, but the roller looks better on the ARB and adds zero bulk as it sits recessed in the bumper. As said above, nothing wrong with using a roller fairlead as long as it’s in good condition.

On a side note, the manual that came with my HF Apex winch actually shows a roller fairlead allows you to winch at more of an angle vs a hawse.

View attachment 3639102

this is ridiculous

 

[MountaineerLC]

this is ridiculous

I’m assuming you’re referring to HF’s recommendation on winching angles?

I found bit “interesting” as well when I was reading through the manual. Obviously there are many variables that would go into what would be the maximum angle to safely make a pull and I’m not sure the fairlead is anywhere near the top of the list.

 

[gnob]

I’m assuming you’re referring to HF’s recommendation on winching angles?

I found bit “interesting” as well when I was reading through the manual. Obviously there are many variables that would go into what would be the maximum angle to safely make a pull and I’m not sure the fairlead is anywhere near the top of the list.

yes. people print arbitrary numbers that somehow become gospel.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

yes. people print arbitrary numbers that somehow become gospel.

Whole heartedly agree...especially when it comes to non-standard rigging like winch Ropes.

There are some companies that seem to apply standard rigging capacities and angles to non-standard rigging. In the rigging industry everything you use has to have a safety factor of several times its rated breaking strength or failure mode.

When some companies apply maximum angle and minimum eye size etc... they don't take in account that not all Dynema style rope is created equally. Some of it fails just above max rating and some of it holds to a factor of about 3 - 3.5x its rated strength pretty easily. Rope in the world of rigging is supposed to have something like a Factor of 5? And for good reason. Especially synthetic rope. If you've ever seen synthetic rope pulled through a thin Hawse with a small radius or through a roller fairlead under full load, you'd notice the rope melts in spots. Stretch plastic beyond its capabilities and it will heat up and melt, eventually breaking.

Keep in mind also that under enough tension at a high enough angle a roller fairlead can and will seize up. It is only a tube with nylon or delrin bushings in the ends. Those bushing can and do deform and become eccentric. I know this from winching with wire rope from a bad angle sunk up to the bottom of my cruiser in mud.

 

[John McVicker]

Post 3 @Jonathan Hanson DEBATE IS OVER. A Roller Fairlead that has not been burred will be perfect for your Synthetic Line, and will actually have less resistance than a Hawse Fairlead.

 

[jgranthevagrant]

You can also switch the rollers to Delrin, which may be easier on the synthetic ropes. Bit tricky to get accurate info on this, as Gnob says.