Upgrades for the coming season

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Ha, awesome story. It must have been Aynsley.

So, did you just need fuel? Or the gauge isn't hooked up?

Yes, Aynsley phoned me tell me about running into you. She had texted earlier to tell me she had a hilarious story. :) Your paths have crossed a couple times previously. She met Karol during Tyler's birthday wheeling day. I believe she was at the duelling piano bar. She was at our home warmer too. She came out sans Karol and was with a taller gal named Amy.

<I'll get you those trailer measurements....today.>
 
My Bj73 had similar issues with air getting into the fuel system. We also had issues up in AK during ACT2010. The former was due to an issue with the fuel pump - it needed a rebuild. The latter had a hole in a hose. Sounds like I should join the RMLCA mailing list again. ;)
 
Random thought. Hose clamps where the rubber lines conect to steel.
 
Hi Kevin,

Great work on the 42. It feels that both my projects are moving at a VERY slow pace compared to yours.

Soon after replacing the pre-cups on the 3B of my BJ70, I was having some issues getting the engine started (on my case it ended up being a broken connection to the glow-plugs system).

However, in my quest to find the issue, I installed better clamps on the fuel-rail spill hose (like you have shown you did on the other post) but I also replaced these washers on the banjo bolts of the fuel filter housing

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There are two (2) per banjo bolt

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You might have thought of this already, but I guess it is worth mentioning.

Hope you find the source of your air-leak issues.

Good luck and keep us posted!

-Alberto
 
Peter (behemoth60) dropped by last night and we did a number of things. I changed the primer pump and actually changed the whole lift pump assembly at the same time. Did that before he got there but I also must have cracked the little oil line that runs under the primer pump because that started leaking oil. Got that fixed in time for a test drive and the air ingress was gone. So it was either the primer pump or the lift pump (obviously the primer pump though).

The oil line was cracked because I was hitting it with the throw of the wrench when changing the timing 500 times in the last week.

So the air issue was solved so we poked around a bit and found the HAC was frozen and not moving. Swapped in the other one which required taking off the EDIC again :bang:. Three impossible to reach bolts. We checked the butterfly valve in the throttle body for full operation and it was good. Air filter is old but not plugged. We discussed the vacuum hoses and whether or not they might be collapsing under higher throttle levels. Didn't do anything about it though. Went for a test drive and let Peter take a turn at the wheel. His feeling is that it is slow but he thinks it could be partly due to the motor still breaking in. I will continue to play with it.

The odd thing is it seems quite good at running through gears 1,2,3 and into 4. Almost peppy around the neighborhood. But dead-dog slow anywhere over 70km/h. Lotsa black smoke so the fuel is there.
 
Quick update, more to follow:

Lowenbrau and I installed the turbo and the resulting increase in power kinda made me forget the lack of power pre-turbo. The consensus was that the newly rebuilt and very tight engine needed to "break in". What better way to do that then a quick 4000km trip to Moab and back. I installed the air compressor and hooked up the front locker on site at Slickrock and went wheeling. Love the locker in the front even though it makes steering nearly impossible on the high traction rock surface down there.

The 4:1 gears are also very nice. The only time they are not low enough is when I was dropping off of a ledge or into a hole and riding the brakes to ease down without smashing my ass-end on the rocks. Never stalled once climbing. We did Steel Bender, Rusty Nail, Hells Gate/revenge and Moab Rim among others.

Not all was rosy though as I did break the rear left side glass and left vent window on a rock out at BFE. Minimal metal damage.

My new H55f leaks like a sieve. Just got off the phone with beno for new paper gaskets to remedy that.

My water temps would force me to back out of the throttle on long climbs or when charging into a headwind. I have a new aluminum 4 row rad inbound from Champion. Very good customer service from a fella named Jeff over there. I emailed them to ask if they could do a custom version of the MC180 rad to fit my 3B. The inlet and outlet for my 3B is opposite to the FJ40 rad. Jeff phoned me back to say that they could do that but they could also just send me a stock unit and an extra set of inlet nipples for me to weld on myself. I opted for this because after reading the posts by tmarx about his install I see I will need to chop the corners of the bottom tank to make it fit anyway. Their 3 row rad (CC180) is a drop in fit but the four row requires some slight grinding.

In addition to the rad I will be fabbing up a stainless 2.5" turbo-to-tip exhaust run. No muffler and exit at the right rear corner following the stock routing. This should help with my high EGT's, high water temps, quicker spooling and higher boost.

Still need to adjust my valves now that she's broken in.

No Left Turn - Rusty Nail Trail
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The Fall - Steel Bender?
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The last part of Riff Raff on Rusty Nail. Walked right up without hesitating after watching big blown buggies struggle to get up.
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Dropping into Hells Gate
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Looks like you got some damage :(

Can't believe you did rusty nail in that 40! :eek:


...via IH8MUD app
 
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When we would build a 2h or 3B, we would load up a heavey trailer and hit the steepest of inclines, cover the rad and run the engine as hard as we could to set in the rings, amazing after two runs up the hill how much quieter and smoother the engine would run..

Of course watching egts and coolant temp the whole time, not to overdue it..
 
Update:

Got some of the above list of work done. Started with a new stainless header made from thicker fittings (1/8") and 1/2" thick flanges.
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Then, after a run to the border to pick up parts... I started on the 2.5" Stainless exhaust.

You can see here that the waste gate has never opened.
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So I removed the waste gate and traced the flange pattern. If it's not opening what do I need it for? After 5000Km I have decided that 10psi is about 5psi too low anyway.
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I lasered out a flange to take the place of the waste gate housing and welded a drop tube right to it. Two birds, one stone, and saved a couple of inches of space.
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Just below the flex fitting I added a V-band clamp coupler thingy to allow me to easily remove the exhaust for whatever reason. I spent a few hours cutting and tacking pieces together until I liked it. I followed the stock path except at the rear rather than going across through a muffler and out the drivers side I went out the passenger side with no muffler. Straight pipes baby!
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couple more
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Next I wanted to re-locate the boost and pyro as well as mount the tach somewhere. I don't drill holes in a perfectly good dash so I mulled over several options and came up with this.

I wanted a gauge pod so I made one by drawing up a design in Solidworks and lasering out some aluminum origami. I could have made most of the bends with a press but this way I could just fold it up and also make it more complex of a shape. After folding I welded up all the seams, ground them smooth and had it powder coated in a matt black textured finish to mimic a plastic gauge pod.
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Where am I gonna mount that, you ask?

All the cool kids put their gauges on the A-pillar these days so I figured, hey, I'm cool right? (rhetorical question there!)

I had to make it 3.5" deep to accommodate the fitting on the back of the boost gauge (though I could have sourced another fitting I suppose) so it is fairly deep and looks a bit odd from the side maybe but when in the seat you don't loose much if any vision. A friend test drove the truck around the block (so I could hear the new straight pipe exhaust) and when I asked him about the gauges he said he forgot to look (meaning he didn't notice them at all). Moving your focus from the road ahead to the gauges does take a second for your eyes to adjust but I like it better than stuffed in the stock ashtray hole.

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I forgot to mention the performance of the new exhaust. Very big improvement. I can now spool up to as much as 18psi at higher RPMs but regularly hit 15psi when, say, tooling along on the flats and going up and over an overpass and you just giver a tiny bit more throttle. Tooling along on the flats she runs at about 6-7psi. My previous max boost was 11psi and usually 9.

EGT's are where the big improvement was need and received. I dropped depending on load, speed and gear, as much as 400°F but on average she went down 250°F. Long hard pulls up any grade would see me hit 1450°F pre-turbo causing the water temps to force me to back off. Now in the same situation I am 1100-1200°F pre-turbo and have 50% more boost to boot.

Sound? A touch loud but stealth can be achieved with careful use of the throttle. I wouldn't mind if it was 5% less obnoxious.
 
Well, I was going to borrow the Y fitting from work to run argon inside but I ended up just using a die grinder to clean off the sugar where I could and welded as carefully as possible to minimize the sugar where I couldn't. She flows real good now and I'm getting used to the bark when I punch it. A lot more turbo whine now too which is always cool. Almost never heard it before.
 
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