Upgrades for the coming season

[Awl_TEQ]

Add the fifth gear synchro and counter gear. Careful not to forget the shift fork as I did on both transmissions and had to pull the gear off again to add it. You have to do the fork and gears all at once when you put them on the shaft. You can see in the first photo that I placed the top cover on and ran the tranny through the gears - everything was good.
View attachment 867699
When you change the shafts you have to change the front bearing retainer too. They are shaft specific. I bead blasted and painted this one though the new one was raw.
View attachment 867500
Don't forget the seal.
View attachment 867601

 

[Awl_TEQ]

that last post was glitchy - the attachments didn't attach properly but they're there.

gasket and bolted all sealed up.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

My t-case was finished at the machine shop so I picked it up and bead blasted it. The gears fill it up now.

The second case is a 34mm case for Bafj44 - the camo 42 - and it had one breakthrough during milling. It was done on a CNC machine with the same program that was run on my 38mm case. The mold that the cases were made from must be slightly different. I had our best cast repair welder put a bead on the outside to close the hole. He welds busted aluminum cases all day so this was a two minute repair for him.



Also, as mentioned above, I received my gears for the ARB install from Kurt. I pressed a new bearing from Kurt's install kit on already so I'm headed out to the garage momentarily to get the front diff back together.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Cleaned and ready to pre-heat the ring

Heated in the BBQ and it fell right on with one tap

Bolted and torqued - bearings pressed on.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Drilled, tapped and installed the bulkhead fitting.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

I think they look good. The photos are deceiving... the pattern is not quite as close to the root as it appears.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

I believe these o-rings are not correct. They seem way to small for their intended purpose.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

What do the O-rings measure? Rough ID/OD. They should be packed with 50mm O-rings, perhaps measuring a tad lower on the i.e. such as 49.5mm or similar (shooting from hip as I'm away from the shop). Give me a shout tomorrow or hit me with an email and I'll network with ARB to see what we can't do to get your the right o-rings ASAP. I'll likely just toss them in a box at my place and ship them International Priority and have ARB reimburse for the mix-up.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

I'll get you a measurement and send you and email. Thanks for taking a look.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

A measurement may help us know what they actually are but I can tell you they are NOT the correct ones. They should nest right into that seal housing without any stretch. The ID is a tad smaller than the ID of the seal housing but that is to keep the seal housing from contacting the carrier... yours are simply way to small

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Yeah, I scratched my head trying to think whether or not they were supposed to be tight on the journal or not but then how the hell would a guy get the seal housing on?

Having not done one before I figured it was best to ask because it would seem to me that these two o-rings are the heart of the ARB system and the main source of any future problems.

Thanks for the prompt attention to my little problem.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Well I'm at a standstill on the front locker for the moment. No biggie, I have other things I can whittle away at. The H55f is where I can do a little. I sent out the all the bolts from the donor split case for plating late last week except for the three long bolts that are inside the split case and hold the front half to the transmission. So I can bolt up the front half case. I need to clear coat the rear half case. I can dig into my 45 cab and pull the 40 series top cover off of the tranny sitting in that chassis and swap the new one back in there. I bought a couple of top cover gaskets from Beno when he supplied the tranny so I can seal them both back up when I'm done. As soon as the t-case rebuild kit gets here and the bolts come back from plating I can finish the gearboxes. I have a clutch ready to go in but I need to resurface the flywheel.

The engine needs a little attention. I haven't looked at it seriously since I hung it on the hoist 2.5 years ago. It's got a York on it that I won't be using in the 42 and a power steering pump/ bracket as well. They will be used elsewhere. I grabbed two stainless elbows and two tees to make a better (read thicker) turbo header. I will have to cut out a manifold flange and a turbo flange on the laser at work.

Looking ahead I will likely have to fab an exhaust too.

 

[Weber Sarge]

How about a couple pics of the York and steering pump mounts ? Working on the layout for mine for future reference...
Sarge

 

[Awl_TEQ]

I mounted the York where the A/C pump would go using a stock belt tensioner and crank pulley for A/C.

Here are some pics from the archive. Full story in my 45 build thread in the 45 section. Prolly on page 200 by now.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

 

[Weber Sarge]

Thanks , much appreciated ...
Interesting bracket setup , odd to see the steering pump up that high but if it works....
Sarge

 

[Awl_TEQ]

that's the stock PS bracket for a 3B

 

[Weber Sarge]

Yeah , wasn't paying attention , lol . I'm 2F , so it's all Greek ....
Sarge

 

[Baf-fj44]

Kev, on our 3Bs without power steering, does the alternator sit in the same location as the one you have in the pic WITH powersteering? Is it possible I just need an upper PS pump bracket and potentially a different alternator bracket (to lower it)??


I had been looking at mounting the pump under the alternator, but up high like that is much better

 

[arnott1t]

Byron. We added a 70 series ps pump to my dads 42. It seems to bolt in fine.