Upgrades for the coming season

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With the countershaft dropped the input shaft will pull right out. Well, I mean, you have to pry and jimmy and swear a little - but it comes right out.
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Don't drop the needle rollers into the case if you're gonna run it. There should be 17 of them.
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So knowing now what it takes to pull the input shaft I cleaned off the bench and the tools because I was done with the greasy grimy donor transmission and moved on to the new shiny one.

This time I started with the fifth gear extension.

Remove the detent ball and spring
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Remove the nut
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And pull
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remove spacer and pin
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remove the output shaft bearing retainer
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pop out the rear countershaft bearing
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move to the front countershaft bearing.

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New gears.
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Here are the two shafts for comparison. The fine spline is quite a bit longer and larger in diameter but has a smaller pilot bearing ID.

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For interest sake here is a new top cover.
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The fine spline shaft needs a new bearing. I don't think I can get the new one off to reuse it. For one, I don't have a puller long enough and it would likely be wrecked anyway. I'll pull it off at work at work and if it survives I might reuse it.
 
Awesome info! I really appreciate you going to the trouble to document all this.

Can you not press off the input shaft bearing?

Maybe I missed it but what are the new gears? I thought you had new gears for the transfer case.

Pete
 
tucker74 said:
Wow - that's a lot of work to swap shafts, now I see why people usually only buy one or the other :-(. Could you not buy a new H55 with the fine input shaft? Tucker

That's what I'm wondering too. I'm getting ready to run all the part numbers by my dealer here in Japan.

Pete
 
Wow - that's a lot of work to swap shafts, now I see why people usually only buy one or the other :-(. Could you not buy a new H55 with the fine input shaft?

Tucker

That's what I'm wondering too. I'm getting ready to run all the part numbers by my dealer here in Japan.

Pete


I have not run the part numbers personally but AFAIK the fine spline input shaft has been disco for like a decade or more and the transmission is only produced in a coarse spline. I suppose there are a lot more FJ60's than BJ60's/70's.


Yes I can take the new bearing off of the coarse shaft but in doing so the bearing is side loaded in a way that can ruin it. Worth a try though so I will attempt it today.
 
Maybe I missed it but what are the new gears? I thought you had new gears for the transfer case.

Pete


That shot of the new gears is the interior of the new transmission. I just posted the picture so guys might be able to see what a brand new transmission gear set looked like. I have new gears for the transfer case from AA that will go in later. I have to wait for the rear half of the case to be machined and I am also having great difficulty in finding a rebuild kit for the 38mm splitcase. Kurt is waiting for stock, Georg is out of stock, Steve at EBI is out of stock and waiting with cases torn apart. CCOT lists them as out of stock. SOR wants twice the price for them so I'm not even going to call them. Man-e-Fre doesn't list them and neither does Cruiser Corp or Cruiserparts. TPI is my next call and then 4wheelauto.
 
and I paid how much for that freakin input.. Dang..
 
I wonder what it's like to work on brand new parts? I thought one would have to remove the main output bearing. Now I know!

It seems like there is a bit of demand for the fine spline input. Question is, is there enough that having some shafts made would be "cost effective"?


The donor tranny/t-case came from Behemoth60 (Peter). He has pioneered a new method of storing oil on the outside of the case by ensuring it is completely encompassed with fine dirt particles which act as a sponge. I believe his motivation was to keep his driveway free from oil droplets. By keeping a 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick layer of the fine dirt on the case at all times the oil is able to defy gravity and cling to the cases.






From our perspective there may be a large enough demand for the fine spline input shaft but the manufacturer must not share our point of view or they would still make them.
 
...I am also having great difficulty in finding a rebuild kit for the 38mm splitcase. Kurt is waiting for stock...

We should have a few dozen back in stock and available next week along with hundreds of knuckle kits that we have been waiting on :D
 
Thanks Kurt. I know you would fill the order but I'm pushing a tight timeline and so had to call around. I'll send you/Bryce an email to "nevermind" that backorder. I'm working my way through all the other parts you sent me. I did receive the 4.11 gears Tuesday.

I've got updates but am too busy to post until the weekend.

I was able to source a rebuild kit from TPI though he had to make a 38mm kit from a 34. Then Georg contacted me to say he managed to find all the pieces to make a kit too but I was set from TPI.

My first purchase from TPI went over well (so far anyway, parts are still enroute). He knew what I was asking for and asked me the right questions. Good to have another source out there I think.
 
Busy week at work with the Monday holiday but I managed to get some cruiser work done.

So as stated above I thought I would see if I can get the bearing off of the new shaft. I don't have a press at home but there is one at the shop (work). The bearing came off of the new shaft with very little pressure and being a needle style roller bearing rather than a ball or tapered bearing I am confident there was no damage to the race.

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The old bearing was on pretty tight and there was some burring and scoring on the shaft after I pulled it off. I cleaned up the scoring with a stone and buffed it smooth.
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The shafts compared again.
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I started pressing the new bearing on the fine spline shaft and noticed just as I took this shot that the bearing was on backwards. The snap ring grove needs to be towards the clutch.
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So when I got home I started the shaft install. Needle rollers in with some grease to hold them steady.
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gently tap the input shaft in while watching the synchro is correctly oriented. Add the snap ring. Re-install the countershaft front bearing.
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Re-install the countershaft rear bearing and the output shaft bearing retainer.
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Add the pin and spacer.
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