Upgrades for the coming season

[tucker74]

Very interested to watch the gear install into your split-case and hear what you think of the results. I just went from stock 3:73s in my '79 FJ55 to 4:11s, I'm hoping that coupled with my H55 I'm currently installing will get me to a happy spot with my 5-cyl OM617. Also running 33x10.50s ... highway was actually great with 3:73s and the H42, but the low end sucked

Tucker

 

[Awl_TEQ]

What are your plans for the rust?

Rust? You mean on the steel parts of the donor tranny/t-case? Other than that there is none.


Bead blast and either powder coat or spray bomb. Maybe zinc plate if I have anything else going to the plater from work that I can piggy back on. The tranny output cover on the back of the t-case and the companion flanges are the only steel on there. Bolt heads maybe. Maybe I'll plate all of the bolts and that cover. My twin stick kit from Georg is raw steel too.

 

[Fast Eddy]

Reason being I covet that shifter plate.... I tried and tried to locate one in north america and even tried to get one out of oz. I guess I just didn't try hard enough!

I tried for awhile too. They are really, really rare. One was up for sale on the classifieds last year for $1500 just for the top plate.

Kevin, is there a part number cast into the top plate?

I'm pretty jealous of your build. Someday... I doubt you'll ever pull the drivetrain out of this, even if you restore it.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Very interested to watch the gear install into your split-case and hear what you think of the results. I just went from stock 3:73s in my '79 FJ55 to 4:11s, I'm hoping that coupled with my H55 I'm currently installing will get me to a happy spot with my 5-cyl OM617. Also running 33x10.50s ... highway was actually great with 3:73s and the H42, but the low end sucked

Tucker

Nice combo!


My 81 came with 4:11 factory as I am told they all did of that vintage.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

For those not aware... this is a real good gear calculator -----> This is a link

 

[SouthBostonFJ40]

Rust? You mean on the steel parts of the donor tranny/t-case? Other than that there is none. Bead blast and either powder coat or spray bomb. Maybe zinc plate if I have anything else going to the plater from work that I can piggy back on. The tranny output cover on the back of the t-case and the companion flanges are the only steel on there. Bolt heads maybe. Maybe I'll plate all of the bolts and that cover. My twin stick kit from Georg is raw steel too.

I meant on the body. My question was really a probe to see if you were going to start making 40 series body panels.

 

[Poser]

And interesting sealing technique on the rear output splines.

Method has been used by Toyota and others for many years to prevent gear oil from creeping past the splines and making a mess of things.


Look forward to your build.

 

[Ambrew]

Part number I have is 33102-60090 for the unobtanium sifter plate.

If Kevin is making 40 series panels, I'm buying them all !

 

[peteinjp]

Thanks for that number shot Kevin! I'm looking forward to this thread because it lines up exactly with my plans for my low mileage bj46. No mods that can't easily be undone. My one exception will be the addition of a 60 or 80 series power steering box. And- I may move the engine forward so I can fit the H55 with my original driveshafts, pto shaft, and not need to find a freakin 1500$$ cover. This will also put the turbo a bit further from my brake booster- Rhd.




Pete

 

[peteinjp]

Which part number is the AA kit on the cruiser outfitters page? I don't see anything listed for the land cruiser at4:1.

Pete

 

[tucker74]

Which part number is the AA kit on the cruiser outfitters page? I don't see anything listed for the land cruiser at4:1. Pete

Here you go, no idea if Curt can get a better price:

http://www.advanceadapters.com/prod...34mm-cases-require-the-additional-kit-716934/

Tucker

 

[Awl_TEQ]

I meant on the body. My question was really a probe to see if you were going to start making 40 series body panels.

Ah... There is no rust on the body. See the thread link in the first post.

And while making body panels is something I'd like to get to there just aren't enough days in the week right now. I have only done a couple of one offs.

here are a couple shots of the 42 during de-rusting last winter:





and a one off inner tub for a local restorer - way too expensive for the average joe and way too much work to produce in any meaningful quantity

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Which part number is the AA kit on the cruiser outfitters page? I don't see anything listed for the land cruiser at4:1.

Pete

It's not on Kurt's website but he can get any AA parts. If you call or email Kurt or Bryce at the shop they can help you out. I got the gears from Kurt for $32 less than the list price on the AA site and was thus able to get everything at one vendor to help with shipping.

 

[Diesel Cruiserman]

Like where you are going with this......

Those gears are the only way to go with that short rear drive shaft, thought about the Marlins Doubler, even NorthWestFabs black box, end result 4 inch rear drive shaft...

Rob

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Saturdays progress.

Scraped and washed and bead blasted the aluminum parts. I clear coated them today but forgot to get a picture. I'll add one later.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Today I started the input shaft swap.

Cleaned up the workbench and dove in.

It's beautiful but won't work for me.

Um.... ok, I'll take off the front bearing cover first.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

I wasn't sure how deep I had to go in order to pull the input shaft out so I took off the top cover for a better look.


You can clearly see that the synchro mating gear is larger in diameter than the first gear - both are part of the input shaft. Therefore the counter shaft has to be dropped down to allow the input shaft to be pulled out the front.

Too early for this but I was there so I took the snap rings off of the input shaft bearing.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

I started with the front countershaft bearing.

Snap ring

Pull it out

I got some drop from the countershaft but not enough for the input shaft to clear.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

It has been a while since my last 5spd rebuild so I took a moment and consulted the H55f manual.

With no other option available I had to start tearing off the 5th gear extension to get to the rear countershaft bearing.

Remove the nut

And pull - careful not to drop all the little pieces when it comes off.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Best to keep the gears together and set them aside along with the spacer and pin - I'm just going to put them right back in anyway.



The output shaft bearing retainer overlaps the rear countershaft bearing so it has to come off as well.



And pulled out the rear countershaft bearing.