Updated the Update Over Heat***. Engine bay heat
- Thread starter dannyvp
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With a coolant leak that large, you’re going to be hard pressed to find any additional, unrelated coolant leaks. Since everything else is pretty much new and/or has been checked by you, I think it’s fairly safe to say that you’ve found your only issue.
Coolant is getting into the crankcase. That should never happen. The pictures show the grim tale. Regardless of exactly where the coolant is leaking from, the cylinder head HAS to be removed again to begin the inspection.
Since a head gasket can never be reused, think of it on the bright side - you didn't waste too much money on the first one.
But now a very close inspection and pressure testing of the cylinder head is in order (by a machine shop that knows how to pressure test a head). The thing to be looking for on the head is a crack. And they can be hard to see by untrained eyes even with magnafluxing
Since a head gasket can never be reused, think of it on the bright side - you didn't waste too much money on the first one.
But now a very close inspection and pressure testing of the cylinder head is in order (by a machine shop that knows how to pressure test a head). The thing to be looking for on the head is a crack. And they can be hard to see by untrained eyes even with magnafluxing
dannyvp
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #64
The head was Magnafluxed, flattened and had a valve job 4 months ago. However its been Hot since then. I guess it needs to be retested. So i should look for a shop to pressure test not Magnaflux the head?
I'm going to cut the old radiator in half tonight also, to see if it was the problem.
If there's even a small coolant leak anywhere, the cooling system will not get pressurized and the boiling point of the coolant will be significantly lower. Unpressurized 50/50'coolant boils at 265°
The engine cylinder head can easily exceed 265° in spots
For a while I ran my 2F without a pressure cap on the radiator- the cooling system wasn't pressurized, and after driving up a steep hill for a mile or two and shutting off the engine suddenly (without letting it cool down idling for a couple minutes) the coolant would boil in the engine. I could hear it and see bubbles burping out of the overflow tank straw.
So maybe that's all that happened (if you were driving hard on a hot day)
The engine cylinder head can easily exceed 265° in spots
For a while I ran my 2F without a pressure cap on the radiator- the cooling system wasn't pressurized, and after driving up a steep hill for a mile or two and shutting off the engine suddenly (without letting it cool down idling for a couple minutes) the coolant would boil in the engine. I could hear it and see bubbles burping out of the overflow tank straw.
So maybe that's all that happened (if you were driving hard on a hot day)
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Magnaflux is one piece of the diagnostic but lots of shops aren’t set up for pressure testing as well so they’ll tell you it was fine.
I just found this video on how a pressure test is done. Very interesting!
So you think the old radiator caused your original overheat problem, then the actual overheat blew the head gasket and caused the problem to persist? Sounds plausible to me.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Honestly I think what @OSS could be far more plausible.
Granted I’ve not begun assembling (crank is at a shop having a new keyway cut) but after reading his words, I’m most definitely going to triple check ALL my coolant connections.
Personally I think your old radiator was not the culprit.
Your old radiator was removed, once it was removed, the problem should have been removed. The gasket you used was far inferior to the oem; looking at both its plain to see the difference. If you torqued the headbolts enough prior to the new radiator install then why would it blowout after a fresh clean easy flowing radiator was added? As he said, if ANY part of the system wasn’t tight enough it could throw off the holding of the pressure w/in the system.
Granted I’ve not begun assembling (crank is at a shop having a new keyway cut) but after reading his words, I’m most definitely going to triple check ALL my coolant connections.
Personally I think your old radiator was not the culprit.
The way I read it was the top end was rebuilt and it still had the old radiator in it. Then, when it overheated, he replaced the radiator, and by that time, the overheat had blown the crappy SOR gasket out.
dannyvp
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #75
BlackCat is correct. I just replaced the radiator last week. I hope the damage was already done the the gasket by the time I replaced it. The radiator could explain the rise in temp my truck was running over the summer.
I am going re read what OSS wrote though.
Both times my truck overheated I caught it before it got to the “H”. Both times the coolant overflow also had the top popped off and was full to the top when I opened the hood. (It did not start full to the top)
I am going re read what OSS wrote though.
Both times my truck overheated I caught it before it got to the “H”. Both times the coolant overflow also had the top popped off and was full to the top when I opened the hood. (It did not start full to the top)
g-man
SILVER Star
The 2f engine manual shows how to correctly install the HG:
notice the oval shaped hole goes to the passenger side between the 4th and 5th piston. Installing the gasket upside down would put that hole toward the front of the block and the HG would block the passages. There is also a coolant passage on the drivers' rear corner that would need to align with the matching (somewhat triangular) hole in the gasket.
notice the oval shaped hole goes to the passenger side between the 4th and 5th piston. Installing the gasket upside down would put that hole toward the front of the block and the HG would block the passages. There is also a coolant passage on the drivers' rear corner that would need to align with the matching (somewhat triangular) hole in the gasket.
dannyvp
SILVER Star
