Updated the Update Over Heat***. Engine bay heat
- Thread starter dannyvp
- Start date
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Gretsch
SILVER Star
If its setup stock, then it only works after key is off and if the temp sensor is tripped AFAIK. See here:
Hence why I was asking about your radiator fan. Again you may just want to check the temps with a laser temp gun and see where you are. Sounds like engine bay heat is secondary to the actual issues you are having though. Might be the catalyst but not the cause. HTH.
Hence why I was asking about your radiator fan. Again you may just want to check the temps with a laser temp gun and see where you are. Sounds like engine bay heat is secondary to the actual issues you are having though. Might be the catalyst but not the cause. HTH.
dannyvp
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #25
Well while camping this weekend my truck overheated on the way home.
The average temp on the gauge it’s been running is halfway up or in the middle. On the way home 70mph for 1 hour, it stayed around that and bumped a little over it on hills.
All of a sudden it spiked up to 1/8” below hot. I pulled over let it run another minute then shut it off. The coolant level was to the top with the lid popped off after a few seconds of setting there is was boiling. I gave it 10 minutes and the gauge was at the halfway mark so I started it, white smoke plumes out, so I shut it back off. Another 10’minutes go by and the temp is low, so I head off. I live 7 miles from where I stopped.
I drive 55ish home and the temp Stays at least half way up. I open the good at home and the coolant reservoir is now empty. (I started this trip with it at the full mark.)
I wait around 2 hours and go borrow a temp gun. I start the truck and it is running well. After several minutes, no smoke. When up at temp (1/3 up the gauge) I took the following readings.
Inlet hose - 150
Outlet hose - 150
Front of radiator readings.
Inlet side - 102
Middle - 104
Outlet side - 106
Head temp - 230
This is over maybe 20 minutes. The truck is now running at idle and 1/2 way up the gauge.
What are my next steps?
The average temp on the gauge it’s been running is halfway up or in the middle. On the way home 70mph for 1 hour, it stayed around that and bumped a little over it on hills.
All of a sudden it spiked up to 1/8” below hot. I pulled over let it run another minute then shut it off. The coolant level was to the top with the lid popped off after a few seconds of setting there is was boiling. I gave it 10 minutes and the gauge was at the halfway mark so I started it, white smoke plumes out, so I shut it back off. Another 10’minutes go by and the temp is low, so I head off. I live 7 miles from where I stopped.
I drive 55ish home and the temp Stays at least half way up. I open the good at home and the coolant reservoir is now empty. (I started this trip with it at the full mark.)
I wait around 2 hours and go borrow a temp gun. I start the truck and it is running well. After several minutes, no smoke. When up at temp (1/3 up the gauge) I took the following readings.
Inlet hose - 150
Outlet hose - 150
Front of radiator readings.
Inlet side - 102
Middle - 104
Outlet side - 106
Head temp - 230
This is over maybe 20 minutes. The truck is now running at idle and 1/2 way up the gauge.
What are my next steps?
There's only one reason why a hot 2F will spew white smoke out the tail pipe after the coolant boiled inside the engine. A hot engine won't blow white smoke if everything is ok.
Coolant got into the combustion chamber/s somehow- and that never should happen.
Keep an eye on it and carefully watch the coolant level in the overflow tank. If the tank keeps losing coolant, there's an internal coolant leak inside the engine from either a blown gasket or crack in the head.
Coolant got into the combustion chamber/s somehow- and that never should happen.
Keep an eye on it and carefully watch the coolant level in the overflow tank. If the tank keeps losing coolant, there's an internal coolant leak inside the engine from either a blown gasket or crack in the head.
dannyvp
SILVER Star
Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
Check your motor oil and see if it looks frothy and/or discolored.
If your radiator is hot then the thermostat is opening.
If your radiator is hot then the thermostat is opening.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Like I said via text, pressure test the radiator before pulling. Either you’ll spot a puddle or you won’t.
Lets (for example) say the engine was fine before this overheating incident but the old radiator was clogged up with precipitates and corrosion. As you're cruising on the freeway, the clogged radiator could keep up with the hot coolant but it was maxed out— it had no reserve cooling capacity left because the flow through the tubes inside was restricted. So the engine temp stayed within operating limits... until you started up the grade.
That would be the straw that could send the cruiser to the red line. It would have no reserve cooling capacity, so putting an extra load on it driving up the grade when it was already maxed out would overheat the engine quickly.
It's possible something like that coulda happened
That would be the straw that could send the cruiser to the red line. It would have no reserve cooling capacity, so putting an extra load on it driving up the grade when it was already maxed out would overheat the engine quickly.
It's possible something like that coulda happened
dannyvp
SILVER Star
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
“I believe”... Pressure test would either provide you w/ a puddle or not. If it can’t hold pressure then you’d know your head gasket is leaking.
Gretsch
SILVER Star
I think I would focus on the pressure test of the cooling system as well as @NeverGiveUpYota suggests. With the white smoke out of the exhaust your issue seems to me to be more than just a clogged radiator. If you are looking to just replace the radiator, then cool (no pun intended), but without the pressure test it would be a guess as to if it would fix your problem. I don't think I would replace it unless you know there is a serious issue with it. I had mine hot tanked and painted for about $45. Runs cool and clean. HTH.
I don’t mind replacing it. If I pull it, it’s getting a new one.
Is there a reason to buy a $400 3 row over a $200 2 row?
Better cooling, but won't help much if you have a blown HG.
Good Morning. I tried all kinds of stuff (got the radiator cleaned and tested, then locked the fan so it is running full blast all the time), but them the truth set it. My HG is blown or the head itself. exhaust gases in the coolant (sad). I live in the south side of the Denver metro, and I am looking for a courageous mechanic to either replace the HG.....or worse, the head or replace the engine with another 2L-TE (yes, I know, not a good move) or with 1KZ-TE. Do you have any recommendations for me? I reached out to Robbie (recomended by many in this blog) but he has no time to take in another cruiser. I was also recomended to go to RedLine Cruisers in Colorado Springs, they dont have time until 2020. I love driving the cruiser. Please let me know if you know anyone.
Dari, are you hijacking someone else's thread here? I suggest you post in 70 series forum and/or the clubhouse associated with Colorado area cruisers such as this one. Rising Sun 4WD Club of Colorado
I am sorry, I did not mean to hijack aything. I am looking for help, and I thought this thread was very close to my problem. The seach feature in this site can be improved. Are we supposed to start a new thread anytime we need to chat? Is that the correct etiquette here. Don't want to upset anyone.
I don't think anyone will be too upset, but you're more likely to get some help by posting in a better location. Yes, start a new thread. You've got a diesel engine in a different model of land cruiser-not the same animal. Plus, you're looking for someone in Denver area so best to target enthusiasts in Colorado. Here is the 70 series forum link that talks about your line of LC. 70-Series Tech
