thanks for making your case. seems logical.
Update: 5W-30 & Heavier Recommended RoTW (3 Viewers)
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bloc
SILVER Star
That oil actually brings up a great example of what I was writing about earlier. To someone that doesn't know the nuances they'd expect two -30 oils to be nearly identical when warm. but the 40°C viscosity is obviously different here.
Being the "thinner" oil as compared to a 5w-30 it would be reasonable to expect the 0w-30 100°C viscosity to be lower. Per their spec sheet that's not the case. The 0w-30 comes in at 11.5mm2/s vs the 5w-30's 10mm2/s.
Mobil had their reasons for doing this.. I'm speculating here but a larger buffer against mechanical shear bringing the viscosity down too far over the OCI is plausible.
I think it unlikely but it's also possible the 5w-30 is lower quality and they needed the room to have the end product be within range of 5w-30.
We'll likely never know why they designed it this way. Looking at similar viscosities from other manufacturers could give some insight.. but probably not worth it as it's such a marginal difference.
The primary reason I stick with 5w-30 is it is such a "simple" oil to produce (and it works well for my ambient temperatures). You won't find many 0w- oils with conventional base stocks, because it is tough to get those base stocks to behave in that manner. 5w-30 is "easy".. now apply synthetic base stocks and additives.. and you have an oil that is basically the highest production ever, kinks worked out, and still most likely overkill for our easy-on-oil engines and especially my use case and OCI. Not that none of this applies to 0w-30.. just, my choice and admittedly habit.
0w-30 is a great choice for many people here, much like 5w-30.
I switched to 0W30 and just got back from a 5k mile road trip towing and running trails in CO and hot a$$ Moab, I’m glad I made the switch. Yeah, that weight may be tougher to find in the middle of nowhere but I can carry a few quarts without trouble and if I need more than that I have bigger problems.
Sure, there's lots of nuances in this and enough variation in certain oil formulations. Rather than get wrapped around the axle on specific data points, IMO there's more value focusing on the bigger trades. Viscosity at 40°C (104°F) doesn't begin to describe the lower curve and the reality is that 0W is generally going be better for all cold and winter starts (there's not consistent data to really describe this). It's an incremental shift everywhere and I like that 0W-30 tracks closer to the factory recommended fill, yet offers incrementally more protection at high loads. Without giving up too much efficiency.
It's been said that 0W-30 is generally made of higher quality synthetic base oils. Sure it may take some VII additives and viscosity modifiers to get the right formulation , but it tends to start with a higher quality base. Not to take away from some high quality 5W-30 oils, but there's going to be lots of lower end formulations.
So the bigger trades for me of 0W-30 compared to factory 0W-20
- incrementally better protection
- without giving up cold start protection
- without giving up too much fuel economy
- tracks closer to the factory recommended fill
For kicks, these are only single data points to compare Mobil 1 products. There's enough variation with other competing products that there can be minor give or takes. There's no win-win in this, and 5W-30 in general takes these trades further. So it's for each person to decide if those trades are what they want.
| Oil | Pour Point °C | Kinematic Viscosity @40°C (104°F) | Kinematic Viscosity @100°C (212°F) | HTHS (High Temperature High Shear) Viscosity @150°C (302°F) | Density @15.6°C |
| 0W-20 Mobil ESP | -54 | 44.9 | 8.6 | 2.7 | .839 |
| 0W-20 Mobil AFE | -42 | 44.8 | 8.7 | 2.7 | .841 |
| 0W-30 Mobil AFE | -50 | 62.9 | 10.9 | 3.0 | .845 |
| 5W-30 Mobil ESP | -40 | 61 | 11.8 | 3.5 | .845 |
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
Motor Oil 101 - Chapter One - Operating Temperatures and Viscosity - Bob is the Oil Guy
Understanding what viscosity grades mean can be confusing. The average driver just tries to follow what is in the owner’s manual – this is a good practice. Some owner’s manuals allow for different grades based on the predicted operating temperature. For example, they may specify a 0W30 synthetic...
bobistheoilguy.com
Here is a good resource on the subject. I recommend spending some time over at Bob to help anyone with making a better decision, for them, and their driving style.
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Any opinions on the Truck Juice?
bloc
SILVER Star
Probably works great. I would consult bobistheoilguy forums for details on what the actual differences are.
Dunbar
SILVER Star
I use Mobil 1 because it is easy to get. For years I could not get the 15-W50 that I needed in Texas for the brutal heat. I switched to Amsoil 15-W40 Marine and Diesel which was rated higher than the Amsoil 20-50 racing oil I used to get. Nowadays you can get Mobile 1 synthetic at my local human zoo (Wal Mart). What pissed me off was that buying Amsoil in 40 gallon drums at dealer price was more exepensive that Mobil 1 at Wal Mart in 5 quart jugs.
Bump. Any updates from those running thicker oil? Approaching 170k on my 2013...may go heavier.
- Thread starter
- #150
No. Works perfectly…..no more random consumption either.
Haha, I did the same just incase I ever had to have the oil changed by someone else at some point. The engine is definitely quieter.
I almost did it on my last change but stuck with 0w20. Just don't see much point in not putting in what Toyota specced for US rigs
The EPA ultimately spec'd it for US rigs.
bloc
SILVER Star
On the contrary, I don’t see the point in not using what they specced for the rest of the world, including some of the harshest environments in which these vehicles are used.
Not to tell you what to run..
- Thread starter
- #157
The only proven formula is to put the following oil in your car:
2 quarts of 0W20 Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy
2 quarts of 0W30 Amsoil Synthetic
1.9 quarts of 5w20 Mobil 1 Extended Performance
2 quart of 5w30 Shell Rotella T6
w/TRD Filter (since, as we all know, a standard Toyota filter will cause backflow causing the cam tower leak).
I have scientific data that proves if you don't do this your engine will explode when your engine hits exactly 783,211 miles (short life for a Toyota). This information was provided to me by the owner of Blackstone Lab's lab(rador). I was skeptical at first, but when the lab, which was grown in a lab, and had a lab coat gave me the data, I was convinced.
2 quarts of 0W20 Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy
2 quarts of 0W30 Amsoil Synthetic
1.9 quarts of 5w20 Mobil 1 Extended Performance
2 quart of 5w30 Shell Rotella T6
w/TRD Filter (since, as we all know, a standard Toyota filter will cause backflow causing the cam tower leak).
I have scientific data that proves if you don't do this your engine will explode when your engine hits exactly 783,211 miles (short life for a Toyota). This information was provided to me by the owner of Blackstone Lab's lab(rador). I was skeptical at first, but when the lab, which was grown in a lab, and had a lab coat gave me the data, I was convinced.
FINALLY...someone has written it all down. THANK YOU!
