Builds Unicorns are real... My dream car FJ73 build

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Did you typo a 1 after that $ ?!

ECFD002E-BD2D-43E6-B767-9E64BAAB0823.jpeg


This was my copper 4 core high efficiency radiator I had built using my existing tanks.
Nice custom aluminum will be more so I’m not surprised by that price. A few years ago I think they quoted me $1300.
 
Gotta pay to play. Totally get that and Ron Davis customs look amazing. How much more life would you get out of a Davis custom though? With Terrain Tamer at $600ish you could buy 2 for less the price of one Ron Davis. Granted in this LS swap case some modification is needed.
 
Pulled the radiator out to get a replacement one as the temps were getting to 230 in the winter time here in KC, so going to get a nice aluminum one.

I am thinking that I put in a separate transmission cooler, to allow the radiator do as much as it can. 21x24 rough measurements.

I tried to get one made by PWR, but they don't have one in their system, so waiting to hear from their custom person...

I see the terrain tamer radiator, thinking about that, however, would need to somehow convert to the LS input and output sizes. Looks like I need lower tube at about 1.5" and top is 1 3/8".


Any other suggestions? going to call Ron Davis next...
If the radiator is aluminum any decent welding shop should be able to weld on the right size pipe to the in/out puts. A simpler, faster, cheaper, but uglier way to convert radiator hose sizes is to use a exhaust tubing adapter. 1.5" and 1 3/8" can both use 1.5" hose. For the smaller/looser fit use 2X hose clamps and tighten them with a nutdriver instead of a screwdriver and use the solid hose clamps if you can find them...........If you want to open your hood at car shows you of course want to do it cleanly, but you'll spend time and money doing it.
 
View attachment 3659054

This was my copper 4 core high efficiency radiator I had built using my existing tanks.
Nice custom aluminum will be more so I’m not surprised by that price. A few years ago I think they quoted me $1300.
In 1990 a rural country radiator shop re cored the radiator on my FJ40 that I removed and brought to them for $140. This was their fee no matter to recore any copper/brass automotive size/type radiator.................When I adjust that price for inflation in todays money it's about $340. Most everyone says it's double that price these days. Not sure why this service got expensive far beyond inflation unless the newer price also includes remove and install from the vehicle.
 
Ended up buying a terrain tamer radiator…. It appears to be a very nice radiator.

Because the original OEM radiator set up had a different spacing from the front, added inch and a half spacers. And my original shroud seems to work fine, had to modify all the attachment points.

For those that want to know the inlet and outlet are both 1.5” as you see on opposite sides of the radiator. LS swaps need inch and a half at the top so bought an adapter and an inch and a half 90° rubber hose. Dayco 70541. It also has additional ports of the top. I believe they’re 1/8 inch NPT, will confirm after I buy some parts, as it did not come with any extra plugs or barb fittings.

IMG_5569.jpeg


IMG_5568.jpeg


IMG_5567.jpeg
 
Pulled the radiator out to get a replacement one as the temps were getting to 230 in the winter time here in KC, so going to get a nice aluminum one.

I am thinking that I put in a separate transmission cooler, to allow the radiator do as much as it can. 21x24 rough measurements.

I tried to get one made by PWR, but they don't have one in their system, so waiting to hear from their custom person...

I see the terrain tamer radiator, thinking about that, however, would need to somehow convert to the LS input and output sizes. Looks like I need lower tube at about 1.5" and top is 1 3/8".


Any other suggestions? going to call Ron Davis next...
Anxious to hear your feedback on the TT radiator, been eyeing it as well, hesitant on the realized improvements it will actually have over stock. Been having similar high temp spikes in hot weather conditions. Skeptical if a radiator could really absorb those or is it linked to other inherent conditions in the cooling system.
 
Well, the fittings are not 1/8 npt. Anyone know what they are??? I’m guessing metric…. I could tap them, but really on a brand new radiator….
 
Well, silly me, two of the three ports the top are just made for bolts so they don’t go into the water chamber. M 8 x 1.25. The one on the right is 1/8 inch NPT.

IMG_5574.jpeg
 
Got a few other projects going on, but finally made time to get Inigo put back together. I used an Amazon sourced transmission cooler…. No longer have a cooler in the radiator. I’m going to have to watch to make sure it is enough. Question to the masses, is it going to be an issue that the radiator hose is higher than the radiator? If so, is there a different 90 degree elbow that can get me tighter to the radiator?

IMG_5736.jpeg


IMG_5735.jpeg


IMG_5734.jpeg


IMG_5730.jpeg


IMG_5728.jpeg


IMG_5727.jpeg
 
Got a few other projects going on, but finally made time to get Inigo put back together. I used an Amazon sourced transmission cooler…. No longer have a cooler in the radiator. I’m going to have to watch to make sure it is enough. Question to the masses, is it going to be an issue that the radiator hose is higher than the radiator? If so, is there a different 90 degree elbow that can get me tighter to the radiator?

View attachment 3737871

View attachment 3737872

View attachment 3737873

View attachment 3737874

View attachment 3737875

View attachment 3737876
Maybe a small metal section with a bleeder valve at the highest point?

Considering the HD TT radiator as well. What are you using the low level sensor port for on your build? See you had it blocked off in one picture and now a hose runs over your air cleaner piping and down.

Wondered if that port would be a decent enough location for a temp sensor vs. the adapter and sensor in the upper radiator hose.
 
Maybe a small metal section with a bleeder valve at the highest point?

Considering the HD TT radiator as well. What are you using the low level sensor port for on your build? See you had it blocked off in one picture and now a hose runs over your air cleaner piping and down.

Wondered if that port would be a decent enough location for a temp sensor vs. the adapter and sensor in the upper radiator hose.


Man, I slept a few times since I did all that temp sensor wiring.....

I can't recall where I connected the stock toyota sensor, to operate the dash gauges... maybe had to do a T fitting somewhere...
 
Ha. Clean memory slate each morning. I have that too. Bliss!

So your new rubber line on the TT radiator runs to an aftermarket gauge?

This line. Terrain Tamer lists it as a low-level sensor port >>>

IMG_5736.jpeg


Thanks
 
Not ideal but use a 2H radiator, don’t know if the 3B has same as a 2H
I should have been more specific incase you aren't familiar with the 2H. the inlet is on the same side as the outlet on your engine, therefore you don't need to have a long hose crossing over and being too high to prevent properly burping the coolant.
 
Ha. Clean memory slate each morning. I have that too. Bliss!

So your new rubber line on the TT radiator runs to an aftermarket gauge?

This line. Terrain Tamer lists it as a low-level sensor port >>>

View attachment 3739043

Thanks

Sorry, that line goes to the LS engine top of manifold connection. This is an LS 3rd gen, so does not have the 4 bleed points on the top of the intake manifold, only one on the top right side of the engine.

Pretty sure the LS has two water temp gauges going to the computer, then I added the Toyota gauge to run the dash cluster. Really don't look at it much, I use an OBDII reader to see the actual temp and other stats.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom