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- #921
I have the cover kit, looks never used...
Build Unicorns are real... My dream car FJ73 build
- Thread starter 2fpower
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If you want to use real ones the part number is 91653-40820.
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- #924
On the crossbar that goes above the driver, these were not bent correctly, so I re-bent them with more of the arch to fit. When I bent then end to be the right angle, of course it split the metal, so welded that up nice as well.... Also see the m8 rivnut installed.
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- #925
My son is back from college on break, so I got him to design the center consul trim. This is the second print on PLA. We will do final print in resin. We fixed the issue of not knowing what gear you are in!!!
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- #926
Back to the top…. Started to work on the pieces on the rear doors…. Made mounts that attach at same points as half windows.
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- #927
Here is quality of Pakistan welds and parts on the soft top… i sandblasted and welded again.
Back in the day Eshan(sp?) posted some pictures of workers welding paki bows in his shop, they were crouched down in sandals welding with stick arc welders on a dirt floor. You’re seeing the results 
Yeah there is definitely room for improvement 
At the under $3k price for a full top, you can’t get anything close to it (bad welds aside) at over double that for the same thing I would not buy it.
For jeeps, a cheap full softtop for a CJ/YJ is $589. Best top version $1000. I’d be scouring craigslis/marketplace for a used top for an LJ wrangler or something to see if I could fabricate the frame, then get the vinyl custom made if you want a full soft top.
At the under $3k price for a full top, you can’t get anything close to it (bad welds aside) at over double that for the same thing I would not buy it.
For jeeps, a cheap full softtop for a CJ/YJ is $589. Best top version $1000. I’d be scouring craigslis/marketplace for a used top for an LJ wrangler or something to see if I could fabricate the frame, then get the vinyl custom made if you want a full soft top.
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- #930
That image is exactly the thought that I had when I was fixing it with all of my nice equipmentBack in the day Eshan(sp?) posted some pictures of workers welding paki bows in his shop, they were crouched down in sandals welding with stick arc welders on a dirt floor. You’re seeing the results
To be clear, my purpose here is to document and make sure anyone thinking of buying this Pakistan kit, you should plan to have some things to fix. I am blessed with the shop and the time to be able to make these right and I agree with @FJBen that there are not many options out there.
- Thread starter
- #931
Back to the soft top... question for the masses. I have made those pieces for the rear doors, planning on using the velcro on them, as the mating surface on the top has velcro -- however, my son in encouraging me to use mechanical fasteners.
My constraint is that I don't have much room behind the piece, so I can't bolt it on very easily. I could weld a stud on the front of the piece or possibly rivet from the back.
I was thinking of using twist lock or turn button fasteners. Here is a thread on those....
forum.ih8mud.com
I recall in @bottombracket FRP to FST thread he had factory ones.
forum.ih8mud.com
Anyone have ideas???
My constraint is that I don't have much room behind the piece, so I can't bolt it on very easily. I could weld a stud on the front of the piece or possibly rivet from the back.
I was thinking of using twist lock or turn button fasteners. Here is a thread on those....
Putting holes in a soft top?
forum.ih8mud.com
I recall in @bottombracket FRP to FST thread he had factory ones.
Build - 1989 HDJ74 FRP to FST conversion
Rear bow and frame parts: Rear bow 65809–90K01 Weatherstrip, fender to rear bow right 61667–90K01 Left 61668–90K00 Rear bow to fender bolts 90119–08479 ×8. Four of those bolts are used to bolt the rear bow to the fender, two per side. Two more attach the side rails to the B pillar. The...
forum.ih8mud.com
Anyone have ideas???
Back to the soft top... question for the masses. I have made those pieces for the rear doors, planning on using the velcro on them, as the mating surface on the top has velcro -- however, my son in encouraging me to use mechanical fasteners.
My constraint is that I don't have much room behind the piece, so I can't bolt it on very easily. I could weld a stud on the front of the piece or possibly rivet from the back.
I was thinking of using twist lock or turn button fasteners. Here is a thread on those....
Putting holes in a soft top?
I recall in @bottombracket FRP to FST thread he had factory ones.
Build - 1989 HDJ74 FRP to FST conversion
Rear bow and frame parts: Rear bow 65809–90K01 Weatherstrip, fender to rear bow right 61667–90K01 Left 61668–90K00 Rear bow to fender bolts 90119–08479 ×8. Four of those bolts are used to bolt the rear bow to the fender, two per side. Two more attach the side rails to the B pillar. The...
Anyone have ideas???
View attachment 3517391
I’m looking at this setup as it mimics the OEM setup. I would go with OEM but you can only find the stud as the other piece goes on the top fabric.
Lift-the-DOT® - Shop By Brand - https://www.dotfasteners.com/shop-by-brand/lift-the-dot
Here’s just 1 type. They have studs, screw, fabric and weld attachment for the post.
You can get them all over even Amazon.
I want to put these on the back and above the front doors, it in order to not have them stick through the top, I need to put another piece of fabric on the bottom of the top.
sailrite.com has a huge array of canvas fasteners that are really good. It will require a deep dive into the site, but they have high quality stuff at a good price, and they are all things canvas.
My custom made soft top attaches with plain old button snaps. I have been amazed at the amount of force they withstand.
The male parts of the snaps are on the body via sheet metal screws.
The male parts of the snaps are on the body via sheet metal screws.
I’m going to commit mild heresy here, but the OEM Toyota fasteners are the weak link of the factory soft top. All of the buffeting and wind at highway speeds has led two of my four to wear out pretty badly where they flap around and clang and make a lot of noise. Snaps might be an acceptable alternative.
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- #936
Appreciate the honesty.... no harm in telling facts.
as they say.... the truth will set you free!
Mine have Velcro above the front doors and have no issues holding down. However it’s starting to stretch the Velcro so I think a combo of both would be great.
Especially across the rear hoop as it takes the most stress in mine since the majority of the time i have my sides off. Honestly I had my sides on 3 or 4 times last year.
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- #938
If you know… you know.
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- #939
Should I????
I guess I don't know 