Undo AHC Delete / Restoration of AHC Help!! (1 Viewer)

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Perhaps you did not understand.

"One could test without shocks attached, I suppose!. By capping all flex hoses. But you must have all 3 of the sensor wires housing blocks hooked-up to the 3 height sensors, to close the loop. Unless you know, of someway to jump those wire and get same resistance feedback to the AHC CPU."

I've never done these things, without the parts. You'd need to be creative to come up with ways.

All these lights, you've been concerned with. Have LED bulbs. Bulbs burn-out and are replaceable. Again, go to the parts diagrams.

FWIW: AHC Socks (hydraulic rams) are not pressurized, when out side of the system (not installed). Only Globes and accumulator are.
 
Perhaps you did not understand.

"One could test without shocks attached, I suppose!. By capping all flex hoses. But you must have all 3 of the sensor wires housing blocks hooked-up to the 3 height sensors, to close the loop. Unless you know, of someway to jump those wire and get same resistance feedback to the AHC CPU."

I've never done these things, without the parts. You'd need to be creative to come up with ways.

All these lights, you've been concerned with. Have LED bulbs. Bulbs burn-out and are replaceable. Again, go to the parts diagrams.

FWIW: AHC Socks (hydraulic rams) are not pressurized, when out side of the system (not installed). Only Globes and accumulator are.
While I totally do not rule out bulb issue, comparing to other bulbs working, I’m less leaned towards bulb. Tried prying the switch up to the point I felt I’m going to break the clips. Then I left it alone. I understood your point of capping off with sensors connected. My doubt was is there anything like a cap or plug for the line to test it. One more, is the attached one proper connector to jump the pump? Is it only housing or comes with terminals?

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SW are removed for center console, by carefully removing console first. Then pinch clips to remove SW's.
Bulbs only need working, once you have a working system. Even then you don't need them.

Terminals (pigtails) are purchase separately. But keep in mind. You don't need wire connector housing, like I have. You just can use 2 wires with alligator clips.
 
SW are removed for center console, by carefully removing console first. Then pinch clips to remove SW's.
Bulbs only need working, once you have a working system. Even then you don't need them.

Terminals (pigtails) are purchase separately. But keep in mind. You don't need wire connector housing, like I have. You just can use 2 wires with alligator clips.
SW are removed for center console, by carefully removing console first. Then pinch clips to remove SW's.
Bulbs only need working, once you have a working system. Even then you don't need them.

Terminals (pigtails) are purchase separately. But keep in mind. You don't need wire connector housing, like I have. You just can use 2 wires with alligator clips.
Hi! Reading your posts for past few weeks on different topics has helped me so much with my 1999 LX470. I was wondering if you happen to have any still in good shape AHC lines? Rear especially as mine after 25 years aren’t looking the best. No leaks still but previous owner didn’t fix an exhaust leak quick enough and heat burnt the comfort damper wires near rear passenger wheel well near center exhaust. I managed to fix all that and get comfort mode back on by moving exhaust and splicing etc. but the rear AHC lines have some heat and rust damage from the exhaust (see attached pic) and also near the fuel tank on driver side looking a bit worse. But not full out rust yet. I thought maybe I could sand and por15 etc but I’m a bit worried about even gently sanding something like these metal lines. For now they have some rust protection on them and I covered up the parts near exhausts with aluminum high temp heat wrap so at least they can’t get damage from any heat (no leaks anymore in exhausts) but it still doesn’t solve them corroding. So thinking about putting in a plan of action for when they may go or maybe preventively change them soon. Still have all 25 year old AHC and original shocks and globes parts working as I have no rust anywhere else. Changed AHC fluid the other day per praddos steps on here and it all went well.

Thank you!

IMG_6635.png
 
Hi! Reading your posts for past few weeks on different topics has helped me so much with my 1999 LX470. I was wondering if you happen to have any still in good shape AHC lines? Rear especially as mine after 25 years aren’t looking the best. No leaks still but previous owner didn’t fix an exhaust leak quick enough and heat burnt the comfort damper wires near rear passenger wheel well near center exhaust. I managed to fix all that and get comfort mode back on by moving exhaust and splicing etc. but the rear AHC lines have some heat and rust damage from the exhaust (see attached pic) and also near the fuel tank on driver side looking a bit worse. But not full out rust yet. I thought maybe I could sand and por15 etc but I’m a bit worried about even gently sanding something like these metal lines. For now they have some rust protection on them and I covered up the parts near exhausts with aluminum high temp heat wrap so at least they can’t get damage from any heat (no leaks anymore in exhausts) but it still doesn’t solve them corroding. So thinking about putting in a plan of action for when they may go or maybe preventively change them soon. Still have all 25 year old AHC and original shocks and globes parts working as I have no rust anywhere else. Changed AHC fluid the other day per praddos steps on here and it all went well.

Thank you!

View attachment 3528378
Thanking for mentioning, you found my post helpful.
Sorry, I do not have any hard lines.
You can buy new OEM, make or have them made.
 
Thanking for mentioning, you found my post helpful.
Sorry, I do not have any hard lines.
You can buy new OEM, make or have them made.
Thanks. Yup found the OEM ones, was just seeing if any cheaper option. Probably will just order with my Globes order from Impex Japan. If having them made, would you happen to know what minimum psi they should be able to handle? I see in FSM in couple of sections it mentions globes have 384 psi (Rear) and 327 psi (front), and height control accumulator has the highest with 853 psi. No idea what pressures the hoses need to be made to withstand while car is driving etc. My original lines have lasted 290,000 miles/ 25 years.... if i can i will get the original again, just wondering if the flexibility of lines if made by a hose/ hydraulic industrial specialist shop may be better and easier to put in, especially driver side fuel tank area. Thanks!
 
Thanks. Yup found the OEM ones, was just seeing if any cheaper option. Probably will just order with my Globes order from Impex Japan. If having them made, would you happen to know what minimum psi they should be able to handle? I see in FSM in couple of sections it mentions globes have 384 psi (Rear) and 327 psi (front), and height control accumulator has the highest with 853 psi. No idea what pressures the hoses need to be made to withstand while car is driving etc. My original lines have lasted 290,000 miles/ 25 years.... if i can i will get the original again, just wondering if the flexibility of lines if made by a hose/ hydraulic industrial specialist shop may be better and easier to put in, especially driver side fuel tank area. Thanks!
No but, I do know: Pressure while driving will vary. This can be very high.
Any brake hard line maker, should have lines that work fine. By giving them your old line to model from.

Impex, may/likely pack lines in same box as globes. These guys are bad packers and will not cover damage. I'd not order at same time. Which means higher shipping. Try Serra Toyota of Decatur for lines may save you.
Wholesale and sales often. Be sure to input your address, to get the actual total.
 
No but, I do know: Pressure while driving will vary. This can be very high.
Any brake hard line maker, should have lines that work fine. By giving them your old line to model from.

Impex, may/likely pack lines in same box as globes. These guys are bad packers and will not cover damage. I'd not order at same time. Which means higher shipping. Try Serra Toyota of Decatur for lines may save you.
Wholesale and sales often. Be sure to input your address, to get the actual total.
Thanks. Ya i'll order seperately from them or partsouq where it's also pretty cheap at only $168/ each side. Still huge savings compared to Toyota of Decatur which is $330 USD per each! Too much and still have to get it shipped. Original price before their sale is $480/ each. Or i'll get both right and left rear here in Toronto, Canada for $427 usd , for both and can just go pick up in person if I don't have them made. Thx for your help.
 
Just scanned over this thread, so this may have been covered.

I notice, in the picture of dash light area HI N LO. The N and LO are obscured. Some guys pull lenses off dash (combination meter), and cover AHC lights.
View attachment 3519733
You were absolutely correct about this. Pulled the cluster, opened it to find the PO has covered the LEDs for height control and Airbag with black tape. Now I can drive around with my AHC OFF light flashing:rofl:. But got additional headache about the Airbag:crybaby:. Check the Pics.

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WhatsApp Image 2024-01-26 at 10.17.27 (2).jpeg
 
SCAN FOR CODES (DTC). You'll very likely, find one or more related to SRS Airbags (or Supplemental Restraint System Airbags).

BTW: Always disconnect negative cable. When working on anything electrical or removing steering wheel, side air bags covers even just unplugging something. Otherwise an air bag may get set off, or we may create short even fry a computer.
 
You were absolutely correct about this. Pulled the cluster, opened it to find the PO has covered the LEDs for height control and Airbag with black tape. Now I can drive around with my AHC OFF light flashing:rofl:. But got additional headache about the Airbag:crybaby:. Check the Pics.
Amazing what people will go through to hide problems instead of fixing them correctly. Never surprised anymore.
 
SCAN FOR CODES (DTC). You'll very likely, find one or more related to SRS Airbags (or Supplemental Restraint System Airbags).

BTW: Always disconnect negative cable. When working on anything electrical or removing steering wheel, side air bags covers even just unplugging something. Otherwise an air bag may get set off, or we may create short even fry a computer.
Yes bro. There’s a B1811. Looks like the clockspring. Probably a cheaper third party one will be fine.
 
Make sure to disconnect battery, before pulling steering wheel. For that matter, when working on any electrical component.
 
A quick update. I’ve been sourcing parts for this project. Managed to find some shocks and ahc spring. King on the background is what the truck is on now. They are not ktrs-79. But blue KTRR-CB131 for lc200. They are soft, but no plans for ahc use. This guy was scammed by mechanic to change out front shocks only to find out his globes are done. He went with delete and sold 2 new front shocks and used(relatively less corrosion) backs to me. He even gave an extra front and used springs for almost nothing. Got 2 cans of fluid from local dealer(cheap, about $20 each). Now globes, sensors, torsion bars is in the pending list. Dumb me threw away old torsion when switched To non-ahc cruiser TB’s. For sensors and globes received a hefty quote from the dealer, which makes me go the impex route. Sensors is another story. Aisin ones gone up in price. Even dorman ones. Still thinking to experiment with aliexpress sensors or spend big for aisins. This will take a few more months. Waiting patiently.
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All the best with your resurrection journey for your AHC system. I absolutely love mine. Last month the odometer clicked over to 600,000 km so I thought it might be time to give the AHC shock bushes a birthday. I was sweating it when I was doing the preparation for the replacement of all the bushings as so many of the video guides (by other ih8mud members mostly) had folk using a hole saw to cut through the flooring to get to the top nut in the rear. Fortunately for me we do not salt our roads here in New Zealand and the skinny mechanic managed to get his hand and various spanners into the required places to unbolt the shocks. You may not have that problem but appear to have a parts replacement issue. While accumulating your parts make sure you replace the rubber seal and metal washer in the top cap of the shock mounting while you are in there.
I am now back to my super limo cruise comfort mode that I have not enjoyed for many years. All my bushes were rock hard when we pulled them out to inspect them and the new bushes take the edge off bumps and curbs.
 
All the best with your resurrection journey for your AHC system. I absolutely love mine. Last month the odometer clicked over to 600,000 km so I thought it might be time to give the AHC shock bushes a birthday. I was sweating it when I was doing the preparation for the replacement of all the bushings as so many of the video guides (by other ih8mud members mostly) had folk using a hole saw to cut through the flooring to get to the top nut in the rear. Fortunately for me we do not salt our roads here in New Zealand and the skinny mechanic managed to get his hand and various spanners into the required places to unbolt the shocks. You may not have that problem but appear to have a parts replacement issue. While accumulating your parts make sure you replace the rubber seal and metal washer in the top cap of the shock mounting while you are in there.
I am now back to my super limo cruise comfort mode that I have not enjoyed for many years. All my bushes were rock hard when we pulled them out to inspect them and the new bushes take the edge off bumps and curbs.
Thank you very much. Yes. O rings and plastic back up rings and washers( same as retainers?) has to be replaced with new. Do you have a list of bushings you replaced? A write up will be beneficial. Thanks again
 
Thank you very much. Yes. O rings and plastic back up rings and washers( same as retainers?) has to be replaced with new. Do you have a list of bushings you replaced? A write up will be beneficial. Thanks again
You will require the following bushes and gaskets depending on year and VIN of vehicle. I presume they are the same parts for most 100 series with AHC system
  1. 90948-01075 cushion front shock absorber No 1 x 2
  2. 90948-01076 cushion front shock absorber No. 2 x 2
  3. 90948-01077 cushion rear shock absorber No 1 x 2
  4. 90948-01078 cushion rear shock absorber No. 2 x 2
  5. 90562-12003 gasket metal x 4 (I ordered 6 in case I bent one or dropped it)
  6. 90301-11022 gasket rubber x 4 (again ordered 6 just in case)
Amayama is my go-to supplier but I always price check with my local Toyota guys and they helped me to find the correct part numbers. It was a mission ordering through Amayama as many of their listed supplier options were out of stock and I had to reorder when my initial order was cancelled on some items.
All the best with your AHC project.
 
Total Newb here… long story short, i believe i will stumble through an AHC delete on mine- leaving all the “spare parts” up for grabs
Unless your truck has too much rust and you intend to use it for large amount of loaded up offroad, you are not going to enjoy a low to mid budget conventional swap. Body roll will be significant with oem toyota shocks paired with lx sway bars, rear will sag when you load up the cargo compartment plus 3-4 passengers. Only benefit being you can forget about ahc maintenance and the truck will have a slight lifted look unladen ( can put bigger tire if you want). Otherwise you may have to spend big on boutique shock set up. I’ve driven non-ahc 100’s and ahc deleted LX470’s. For some reason, ahc deleted LX ride is nowhere near stock LC even on fairly good condition bushings. I don’t know whether it is the sway bar or increased weight-center of gravity on LX due to extra insulation and interior material. Stock LC will float over speed breakers while LX conversion jarring the entire dashboard. LC stock did better than a fairly used up Y62 patrol(armada in US) with HBMC.
 
Unless your truck has too much rust and you intend to use it for large amount of loaded up offroad, you are not going to enjoy a low to mid budget conventional swap. Body roll will be significant with oem toyota shocks paired with lx sway bars, rear will sag when you load up the cargo compartment plus 3-4 passengers. Only benefit being you can forget about ahc maintenance and the truck will have a slight lifted look unladen ( can put bigger tire if you want). Otherwise you may have to spend big on boutique shock set up. I’ve driven non-ahc 100’s and ahc deleted LX470’s. For some reason, ahc deleted LX ride is nowhere near stock LC even on fairly good condition bushings. I don’t know whether it is the sway bar or increased weight-center of gravity on LX due to extra insulation and interior material. Stock LC will float over speed breakers while LX conversion jarring the entire dashboard. LC stock did better than a fairly used up Y62 patrol(armada in US) with HBMC.
I like rock-dumb-simple. As luck would have it, i just saw my LC100 today for the first time ever- NO AHC!!
 

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