Unboxed the EZ Power Steering kit, installing on a RHD Troopy (11 Viewers)

[gswest]

After debating which way to go to get power steering in this truck, I decided to go in the electronic direction. Mainly, I wanted it to be easy for “me” to install. Some of the welding needed for the Saginaw conversion, I couldn’t do with my welder. And there are other issues with the hydraulic type power steering;(some involving getting the needed parts to convert my RHD truck) that I was leary of. There’s probably good reasons to go the hydraulic route; it’s what Toyota put in newer versions of the Land Cruiser. This system from EZ Electric Power Steering makes it easier to convert. Whether it’s better than the traditional set-up; we’ll see.....

I’ll see!

 

[4x4veteran]

I have a few questions.
Is that the hammer you are going to use for installing the unit, is that blood in the foreground where you cut yourself getting it out of the box and what kind of sick fck has such a clean work bench?

Seriously I am interested in seeing how this works so be sure to show your progress installing and have a nice day.

 

[gswest]

Yes on the hammer, no on the blood but coincidentally I did get cut opening the box. I will be doing updates as I go through the install process.
Thanks

 

[4x4veteran]

Yes on the hammer, no on the blood but coincidentally I did get cut opening the box. I will be doing updates as I go through the install process.
Thanks

Thanks for taking my comments lightly.
I was in a funny mood this am. and have worried all day that I had overstepped the bounds.
Also that looks like a lot of stuff to fit under the dash.

 

[gswest]

It will mean moving a few things I think (a/c controller, aftermarket temp gauge etc). My initial attempt to get the steering column back in was
Not successful, but I think I had something wrong.
I’ll post up some pics later as I get into it more. Their website instructions mention widening the area where the column penetrates the dash. That is why I think my initial attempt stalled.

 

[martymart]

I installed the EZ Power on a LHD 1971 FJ40 with 35x12.5x15 mud tires and it has worked well so far. I recently installed it so it has not been tested on the rocks yet. Because I never use my heater, I removed my heater and installed the control box on the two empty heater bolt holes on the firewall closest to the steering wheel. This approach is a real clean look. I used the stock blinker switch so there was some creativity to make the steering column look fine. If I could fabricate metal, the column would have looked better. I can add pics if you would like as an option for the install. Again, a person with fabricating skills could make it much cleaner than I.

 

[martymart]

You can adjust the cylinder object from the column. When I first tried to install, I could not get it to fit until I finally realized that if I loosened the bolts holding the cylinder I would rotate it and it fit. I did not need to cut my bracket behind the dash.

 

[gswest]

After some measuring and then some grinding I have managed to install the new power steering column. Unfortunately That doesn’t mean I won’t have to pull it back out to get everything situated perfectly, or as near of that as I’m capable. There is still all the wiring to connect (not my strong suit). But the EZ people have provided instructions, so I’ll go through that section here as I get through it. One thing I didn’t see in the instructions was that the column support pieces for the old column have to come out. The ones that anchor the column to the dash section. So, I’ll put a pic of those 2 pieces for anyone doing this project in the future. The pics show the marks I made for grinding, the installed column and the instructions that the manufacturer provided for “adjusting the opening” to accommodate the new column.

}The bottom Is obvious, but the upper curved one has to come out and the instructions don’t mention this. Just added a little confusion on my first attempt to get it installed.

 

[gswest]

I have to delete some of the pics I see. But thanks for the tips, I’ll be looking for any help with this , especially the electrical parts .

 

[cruiserkev]

Looking forward to seeing how this conversion progresses. I researched electric power steering but ultimately did a 60 series upgrade to my FJ40. Just wasn't sure if electric would be capable of turning 35s on long off road trips. Good luck!

 

[gswest]

Thanks, I had begun to collect the parts for the 60 series power steering conversion. I sold that stuff to help pay for this kit. I know some people will be Leary of the electric power steering; I’ll be honest here with it’s performance assuming I get it all installed.

 

[KY Longhunter]

I would love to see more pics of LHD with EZ kit.

 

[Racer65]

Just for the record, do not use a hammer. It will knock the system out of alignment.

 

[gswest]

Copy that, no hammer. I’m glad your here Racer65, I’ve reached out to your tech guys about the steering wheel not mating up to the turn signal mechanism. My only idea is the shaft somehow pulled out of the power unit. When I replaced the bearing retainer plate and installed the c clip, everything was right. After installing the lower shaft thru the firewall flange and tightened up the various bolts, I noticed the c clip was no longer flush. Now the shaft was backed out about a half inch. I’m pulling the steering wheel back off tomorrow and will look into the shaft’s location in the power unit. Any suggestions?

 

[gswest]

Hers a pic of the shaft before I put the wheel back on. If you zoom in you’ll notice the bearing retaining plate should be flush with that snap ring. It was flush when I installed the snap ring. When I installed the lower shaft, I then noticed the snap ring no longer was flush. So it isn’t holding anything in place now. The shaft had to have come out that amount.

 

[gswest]

Actually the snap ring should be up against the inner part of the bearing, holding the shaft in position.

 

[Racer65]

Take a look at posts #41-44 in this thread posted by @thecrazygreek . Basically I would retrace Step 8 in the installation guide, and make sure everything is properly tightened.

 

[gswest]

Will do.

 

[gswest]

Ok, we removed the steering column and have it on the bench. The lower coupling is intact and correct. The clamp will only work if the groove is aligned where the bolt can slide through. So , that isn’t the issue. I did nothing to the other end of the shaft except to bolt on the bearing retainer/ ignition switch and turn signal actuator. The distance from the flange where the ignition mechanism/ bearing retainer meets up against to the end of the steering shaft is 6 inches. The question is what should this distance be? If 6 inches is correct, then I guess it’s OK. But there is a approx 1/2 inch gap in the steering wheel and the cowling, indicating the shaft sticking out too far??Racer 65 says this is incorrect, which seems right. I need to know what that distance is supposed to be. I’m at a standstill until I get confirmation on that!

 

[Racer65]

6" is correct. Here are the full dimensions I have on file:
A = 10 1/2 "
B = 11 1/2 "
C = 2 1/4 "
D = 6 "
E = 4 " (slightly less)
F = 34 1/4 "