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All is well with my nuts
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- Thread starter Trollhole
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I got an alignment in the gx... Adjusted the coil overs.... Toe is out again. Lol
JToobe
SILVER Star
All is well with my nuts
All 4 of them???
OUT or IN? Mine went out while I was at Sand Hollow and couldn't figure out how it could possibly do that. Nothing was bent or loose.
- Joined
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I am assuming by "hub nuts" you are referring to the spindle nuts that preload the tapered roller bearings. I recently repacked the front bearing and set preload when I replaced my brake pads. I'm anal about checking and tightening fasteners on the truck since finding my lower knuckle studs/nuts were loose at one time. There is absolutely no play in my front axle and steering components. Steering is light, floaty, and wandering. Tire wear is normal across the tread the tire, nothing uneven.
- Joined
- May 19, 2013
- Threads
- 5
- Messages
- 392
- Location
- Simpsonville, SC
- Website
- www.scthrivin123.le-vel.com
Welp, because I'm a cheap bastard I added an unknown degree of toe in (4 full turns on the tie rod in stages and driving tests between stages) and then adjusted the drag link to straighten the steering wheel. Seat-of-the-pants test reveals much improved steering, handling, and a tighter feel all around. My guess is the alignment tech adjusted for toe out instead of toe in? Whatever he did, it wasn't right.
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Adjusted down so I am assuming it went out
Holy chit! Can't find my over sized sockets so other than removing wheel and cotter pin have gotten no further.
Yeah tell me about it. Going to try and take care of it this week. Off until Thursday nite.
For those with pressurized fuel tanks, this is the canister I used on mine. I noticed the pressure the first time I filled up after buying it and thought it was strange. In researching it, found that it can/will lead to ruptured gas tanks and is the fault of a clogged vapor system. Nobody seems to know for sure why, ethanol seems the most common blame, but a canister swap seems to resolve it. The FSM lists a process for cleaning the canister using low pressure air. I did this several times and had no improvement.
Vapor Canister AIRTEX 4B1004
The OEM canister has a 3rd vent hose underneath that runs down to the frame. This one vents from the bottom and there is no hose, so I plugged the frame hose and left it in place for now. You will need to use a longer bolt for the top part of the clamp, and leave the bottom clamp off.
You can also cut open your OEM canister (don't forget there is fuel vapor in there) and repack with activated charcoal for aquariums. You will need to reseal it afterward and the common practice is JB Weld. Some are also removing the check valves.
@ceby @IcutYourCruiser
Vapor Canister AIRTEX 4B1004
The OEM canister has a 3rd vent hose underneath that runs down to the frame. This one vents from the bottom and there is no hose, so I plugged the frame hose and left it in place for now. You will need to use a longer bolt for the top part of the clamp, and leave the bottom clamp off.
You can also cut open your OEM canister (don't forget there is fuel vapor in there) and repack with activated charcoal for aquariums. You will need to reseal it afterward and the common practice is JB Weld. Some are also removing the check valves.
@ceby @IcutYourCruiser
Adding this to my long list of maintenance to do.
This just on 80 series?
Yes, the 80 needs a lot to get back up to date on maintenance. The 62 is on the waiting list for a donor. Trying to convince my brother in-law to let go of his wrecked 4.7 tundra
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^^^I missed that convo.
Is it possible to match bearings etc off of just the hub? Soaking parts in degreaser but doubtful on part #'s.
Found this. Parts soaking in De greaser to see what I find!
I thought I was the only one...
