U-joint replacement (2 Viewers)

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So I had a seized front cup on my rear driveshaft. So I replaced it. The question is, what do I do when only one
of the new bearing caps accepts all the grease? It goes to one of four and excess just squirts out around the seal.
Should I punch off the clips and run a cleaning rod through the center of the joint housing to clean it out?
 
Pic of grease imbalance
5CF5EC9F-E1AF-440A-8602-6D996DD2A5C2.jpeg
 
The grease needs ooze like that when pressurized by a gun from all four pivots.
Try some fast pumps to maybe clear whatever's blocking the flow, otherwise take it apart and find the problem. Or maybe drive it around the block and try greasing it again. Maybe something will clear out once it gets exercised
 
It’s still on the bench. I guess the easiest would be to take it all apart.
Of course, I just ran out of grease.... wish these tubes had sight glass or
something 🤬
 
So took it back apart. Ran a skewer through the body. It’s not a very clean design.
Anyhow, greased it prior to reassembly just to confirm it goes to all four corners,
but it still was really weak into one corner. But I put it together anyways, and I’ll see
how it accepts grease after I’ve driven it for a while.
I did learn, that to insert the tension clips back on just firmly push them down with the face
of the hammer until they are held on with tension. Then tap them on with a chisel.
D9BEF8E5-D34F-4F24-8D0B-A8293D865A0B.jpeg


There it is with the body greased. The storage grease is pretty ugly and hard. God knows how
long these things sit in bins until they get bought.
 
What joints are they?
 
probably a dumb question, but how did you know what U-joint to get? I'm having trouble finding the right part number....
 
Land Cruiser 60 series MOOG 389
good resource for true part numbers
in Canada. Discount OEM Toyota Parts and Accessories - ToyotaPartsDirect.com
internationally I use
megazip.net
go through the pages and find your truck. They provide full diagrams with proper
Toyota part numbers. They also indicate how many parts are required
I use megazip as a library. really useful.
rockauto.com I understand is good in the US but I don’t use it.
 
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How did you get from the toyota part number to the MOOG part number?
 
I'm a little worried the parts supply might dry up soon with this virus shutting down Asia
 
How did you get from the toyota part number to the MOOG part number?
Any parts place can cross reference From a Toyota number. I’ve got little
pieces of paper all over with part numbers written down.
 
I'm a little worried the parts supply might dry up soon with this virus shutting down Asia
Little off topic - but I’d be more worried about stocking my pantry and deep freeze
than worrying about parts for the truck
 
Cruiser Outfitters (@cruiseroutfit) could get you sorted out with the correct u-joints too.

And they are proven Japanese joints too! We’ve been using them for 20+ years. Daily drivers, race Cruisers, Cruiser driving around the world. Matsuba joints are great. Give us a shout @ CruiserOutfitters.com, we would love to help!

7455DDD2-5A5A-4F78-A5A5-E7811A67AF0F.jpeg
 
When installing the new grease should last a long while, as it takes the least resistance it will exit the nearest, the inner hole is so large the grease should have no problem reaching at least a few pins, maybe grease after some driving when the old grease heats up a bit.

If the flange is a bit to wide (C-clip to easy in, or to narrow when C-clip can not be inserted a few slams might help)

2_7e012fd0829d3a2c6e83d70048806a0d.jpg


In my world the engineers fixed a flat tab so a mechanically disabled like me can slam with a hammer to make it fit:

2_69f4711368a5c5af112f1519cdc5b6d3.jpg


U joint (landcruiser SPIDER KIT UNIVERSAL PROPELLER SHAFT UNIVERSAL JOINT) part# 04371-36030 Stock Code 04371-36020; 04371-36021

They seem to be the same type for the front and rear axle (so 4 times the same) others mention front is different for J 60 model ? , find out? See above list.
 
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Thanks to CruiserOutfitter for confirming all the u joints for 60’s are the same front
and rear. I knew that, but it’s nice to see the numbers. I can match that price here
without international shipping. I’ve not had any failures, just normal wearing out.
 
And they are proven Japanese joints too! We’ve been using them for 20+ years. Daily drivers, race Cruisers, Cruiser driving around the world. Matsuba joints are great. Give us a shout @ CruiserOutfitters.com, we would love to help!

View attachment 2227638
My choice over Moog for my Cruiser. Moog is good, but there is better out there for our trucks. I'll use Moog for a domestic car or truck.
 
So I’m pondering work, and had some time so I cut the recently removed u-joint right
down the middle. As I thought. With an imperfection... This one was ok, not bad just
getting side to side movement on one pair of yokes. It’s a rear and I plan on 20,000 kms
of backcountry gravel this year.
I opened it up like a sandwich, so the two yoke ends are together as they came apart.
i can see that the drilling isn’t even and thorough through the middle, this could easily
lead to grease imbalance and potential failure. In the future, I’m not sure how to
deal with this. These are very high carbon steel. I will try to drill with one of my
Walter bits through the next one, just to see if it will cut.
6520C8F8-0693-4F98-B7FF-C016D6B96806.jpeg


This one did have proper grease on all four corners when I took it apart.
 
I think you are overthinking this.. Also, Toyota or the Japanese Joints Kurt sells are higher quality than Moog for Toyota's.
 

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