U-joint replacement (1 Viewer)

[MarkBC]

For 3rd gen 4runners, moog lower ball joints are a gamble with death, they only last 10k if that.

It looks like I'll have a new job soon with more money and better schedule so I can get this thing on the dirt this year. Planning for a Yukon trip. You had some great photos last year.

 

[Spook50]

So I’m pondering work, and had some time so I cut the recently removed u-joint right
down the middle. As I thought. With an imperfection... This one was ok, not bad just
getting side to side movement on one pair of yokes. It’s a rear and I plan on 20,000 kms
of backcountry gravel this year.
I opened it up like a sandwich, so the two yoke ends are together as they came apart.
i can see that the drilling isn’t even and thorough through the middle, this could easily
lead to grease imbalance and potential failure. In the future, I’m not sure how to
deal with this. These are very high carbon steel. I will try to drill with one of my
Walter bits through the next one, just to see if it will cut.
View attachment 2228038

This one did have proper grease on all four corners when I took it apart.

Which brand is this one?

 

[cruiserpilot]

I think you are overthinking this.. Also, Toyota or the Japanese Joints Kurt sells are higher quality than Moog for Toyota's.

I'm actually just posting this as an FYI. I'd rather any u-joint than a broken worn out one. I tend to replace things that are
worn, not broken. I'd bet 95% of the guys on here wouldn't have looked twice at the play on this u-joint when I took it
off. I just thought that for interests sake, lets cut one in half and see what they are made of.
I don't know what brand this particular joint is, but I'd bet its MOOG or aftermarket.
I have two new in the box in my shop right now, they are both MOOG, one made in US one made Mexico. Identical.
So be it.

 

[cruiserpilot]

It looks like I'll have a new job soon with more money and better schedule so I can get this thing on the dirt this year. Planning for a Yukon trip. You had some great photos last year.

Yeah, that's why I'm replacing this now. Try getting a part north of Whitehorse.....south of Whitehorse.....LOL!

 

[Skniper]

So I’m pondering work, and had some time so I cut the recently removed u-joint right
down the middle. As I thought. With an imperfection... This one was ok, not bad just
getting side to side movement on one pair of yokes. It’s a rear and I plan on 20,000 kms
of backcountry gravel this year.
I opened it up like a sandwich, so the two yoke ends are together as they came apart.
i can see that the drilling isn’t even and thorough through the middle, this could easily
lead to grease imbalance and potential failure. In the future, I’m not sure how to
deal with this. These are very high carbon steel. I will try to drill with one of my
Walter bits through the next one, just to see if it will cut.
View attachment 2228038

This one did have proper grease on all four corners when I took it apart.

Pretty interesting actually, thanks for sharing.

Where is the grease zerk port on these halves?

 

[cruiserpilot]

It’s pointing down towards the middle. Hard to say how it flows grease on this
one. I’ve been lucky that they all seem to getting grease properly. I’m going to
pull the front next. I think the slip joint is worn on it, but the grease just squirts
out the front when added.
I‘m going to try to just dab a weld onto it and see if once it holds grease the joint
tightens up. Now I would be a bit more cautious of this idea on a rear shaft, but front
only sees slow off-road use. I’ll post this up in a day or two.

 

[Dekeman]

Because they were 40-years-old, and because the truck sat for 14 years before I got it, replaced my joints this weekend with OEM units, part No. 0437160210, plus new nuts, bolts and washers that are sold in a three-piece pack, 9010511H00. U-joints, including 4 c-clips and zerk, were $37 US a piece plus shipping from partsouq. Nut/bolt packs were $1.68 each.

Prior to disassembly, notched all the pieces with Dremel grinder wheel to keep correct orientation. Used a big C-press and impact driver to get the crusty old bastards out, then cleaned and painted everything in Eastwood chassis black.

Found that a very light coat of silver anti-seize on the races made them slide back in with only firm taps from the brass hammer. Only drama was a C-clip that sprang free and flew across the garage, luckily found. And as others said, be mindful of zerk orientation, both have to point inward toward the shaft. Added some new grease, tapped to ensure easy movement. Lifted shaft into place, torqued bolts to 50 ft.lbs, marked bolts. Took me about 6 hours as I'm slow and this was first time, but found this thread, and others on mud, super helpful as always.