U Joint questions

[BILT4ME]

My PO had the ones on my rear DS replaced with something that is non-greasable.
I have 90K on them myself and there is no play and no noise. I have no idea what brand they are.

 

[LINUS]

Another Q I’d want to know 100% is if you’re running a DC shaft - are you sure you’re buying the right U-J’s for however yours was built?

Or, if you’re thinking of a DC shaft, do you want to do the joints now just to end up in a DC shaft sooner than later?

Unless your UJ’s are flat shot, you can grease regularly if you’re on a budget & thinking a DC shaft anyhow.

Just a thought.

 

[shocktower]

So I am going to swap out the U joints here in the next week and phase the front driveline. On AutoZone's website, they only list the MOOG Super Strength for the front driveshaft. Are the U Joints essentially the same or should I the U joints that are labeled specifically for the rears?

m00g are not as good as Matsuba from @cruiseroutfit I went through 2 sets of m00g

 

[1911garand]

I recently replaced all 4 of my u-joints using GMB brand from Rock Auto. The are made in Japan and all 4 were under $40 .

GMB 2200020
GMB 2150021

I'll yet you know when they fail!

 

[Jgunner]

I went stock but would have given the matsuba a chance if i had known about them. I think i paid $200~ for stocks, front and rear. Didn’t fix my vibe though, but it was time anyway.

 

[OffRoadScott]

m00g are not as good as Matsuba from @cruiseroutfit I went through 2 sets of m00g

Yeah I think when I have the money in my account I will get the ones from @cruiseroutfit

 

[goranvolvo]

you can get toyota OEM from ebay for 43.99 $ seler is stop4shopllc-us and some other sale for same price i replaced all my with new OEM i used oher brands before but screw the warranty last one filed in baja california right in the desert lucky me i was carrying spare now i m done with aftermarket junk

 

[Tools R Us]

Why are you changing them, have you inspected them?

Buy OEM or the ones Cruiser Outfitters offers. Lifetime on those is open-ended if lubricated properly. Replacing U-joints is a pain in the ass. I, for one, don't like to do that more than once every 300,000 miles or so.

This, know of a bunch of them that still have the original joints, lifted, wheeled, etc.

Toyota is more OCD than most, from the factory there are often differing thickness clips. We always note clip thickness/location and reinstall in the same place.

 

[cybrstar]

Here we go again with the OEM crowd.

Get over the sponsorship. We all understand you guys are vendors. But let’s not say all the parts you guys have are the only ones to buy. We are already loyal customers and will continue to be.

 

[cruiserdan]

I am no longer a vendor. My parts cleats went into the display case 3 years ago when I retired.

Use what you like. I spent 37 years in the car business. I had a pretty good look at what holds up and what breaks.

 

[OffRoadScott]

Why are you changing them, have you inspected them?

This, know of a bunch of them that still have the original joints, lifted, wheeled, etc.

Toyota is more OCD than most, from the factory there are often differing thickness clips. We always note clip thickness/location and reinstall in the same place.

When I was in a drive through I backed up a little and put it back into D and I heard a little clunk.

 

[Tedward]

Don't do that. Full and complete stop before changing direction. I had to train myself to be fully stopped before a direction change. There's alot of moving parts down there tween trans and wheels. The clunk, I think, you had is not unusual.

 

[mudgudgeon]

When I was in a drive through I backed up a little and put it back into D and I heard a little clunk.

The clunk is more likely to be worn drive flanges and birf splines at the front hubs.

UJs often get fingered for a clunk when they are not the culprit.

To check your U joints, unbolt the shaft completely.
Then rotate the joint in every direction. You should be able to rotate it freely, and smoothly through every direction, but it should not be loose.

 

[OffRoadScott]

Don't do that. Full and complete stop before changing direction. I had to train myself to be fully stopped before a direction change. There's alot of moving parts down there tween trans and wheels. The clunk, I think, you had is not unusual.

No, I was coming to a complete stop. I will check out u joints this weekend just in case. I have heard that I can put the LC in neutral and unload the weight of the on the front wheels and see if there is any play in the drive shaft.

 

[Jgunner]

Mine had a little movement, so i disassembled thrm to inspect. There was minor pitting and some wear. To me, getting out on a trail and breaking sucks a lot worse than replacing what is most likely a original unit that has gone past its used by date. Big tires speed thst up(in my mind). Its at least peace of mind and keep the old ones for backups if you can.

 

[mudgudgeon]

No, I was coming to a complete stop. I will check out u joints this weekend just in case. I have heard that I can put the LC in neutral and unload the weight of the on the front wheels and see if there is any play in the drive shaft.

Yes, you can do this, unless the u joint is total FUBAR, it doesn't give you a good indication of condition at all IMO.
15min with two 14mm ring spanners and you can have the shaft out, check out u joints, and 15min to put it back.

Just don't drop it on your head when removing it, it hurts

 

[TerraNerva]

Clunking is not that uncommon. I was clunking pretty hard in shifts from D to R while completely stopped and when slowly accelerating and releasing pedal from 1 to 2. I thought it was UJs on mine too and turned out to be splines. The spider yolk fitting gums up, won't let enough grease through and the splines to dry out. Way cheaper and easier to pull the shafts and try lubing the splines than replacing UJs. Couldn't hurt to try it first. And like mudgu said, wear a helmet!

 

[shocktower]

you can get toyota OEM from ebay for 43.99 $ seler is stop4shopllc-us and some other sale for same price i replaced all my with new OEM i used oher brands before but screw the warranty last one filed in baja california right in the desert lucky me i was carrying spare now i m done with aftermarket junk

And you can get them from @cruiseroutfit our local guy for $37.50 and he is a payee vendor

 

[Chrisw023]

I just recently replaced my rear ujoints do to the one attached to the rear diff not being happy after a 4" lift and being wheeled, when its been stock height/angle for 260k. I could grab my driveshaft though and feel the play in it. Only took a couple hours to change them with basic hand tools, I went with oem. I was suprised to see with toyota oem that they didnt come with multiple sized clips like some others do for sizing.

 

[OffRoadScott]

I’d have to double check the part numbers, but I’m pretty sure I have a couple spare front Toyota u-joints lying around. They won’t fit in that stupid Tatton shaft I run, so I’m willing to part with them.

I tried aftermarket joints from Napa (or maybe it was vatozone) and they sucked.

Sorry I am just seeing this really. I will send you a PM regarding the U joints.