U Joint questions

[flintknapper]

Here we go again with the OEM crowd.

Get over the sponsorship. We all understand you guys are vendors. But let’s not say all the parts you guys have are the only ones to buy. We are already loyal customers and will continue to be.

That's not what is being said here. What IS being strongly 'advised' is that in this critical area (U-Joints) it has been proven many, many times that aftermarket units are inferior to the ones being mentioned (not promoted).

We don't really care what the OP ends up putting on his vehicle. He might good reason to use a lesser product. But if you want/need the best performance and longevity ...then follow the sage advice that has been offered.

 

[RFB]

Im not a vendor, and Ive run spicer u joints tom wodds DS and the only ones that actually hold up for real to 37s and highway/offroad are OEM yotas dont like spicers.

 

[bigredmachine]

When I was in a drive through I backed up a little and put it back into D and I heard a little clunk.

typically youll get more of a squeaking sound from the u-joint when ti goes bad or you can get vibrations while driving.

the clunking could just be slop in the drivetrain, backlash in the rears, backlash in the t-case, ware on the drive flanges. a little here and a little there can add up in total to make it seem worse than it actually is

 

[goranvolvo]

And you can get them from @cruiseroutfit our local guy for $37.50 and he is a payee vendor

you add 10 $ for shipping and you cost more, plus their website sucks for navigating

 

[Tools R Us]

Mine had a little movement, so i disassembled thrm to inspect.

If a joint has play, it needs to be replaced, pretty simple.

To me, getting out on a trail and breaking sucks

When has this happened?

replacing what is most likely a original unit that has gone past its used by date. Big tires speed thst up(in my mind). Its at least peace of mind and keep the old ones for backups if you can.

At least two of mine are original, from the factory, have been run with 37" tires for ~170K mi, tons of trail days. A reverse to drive clunk could be a bad joint, but that much play would be easy to see/find. The most common cause is dry slip splines, not good, but simple to fix, they need grease, but not too much and preferably moly. The early, short spline birf and drive plates are known to wear and strip, can cause a clunk. Again easy to check, pop the dust caps, have a helper hold the brake, shift between R and D, look at the end of the birf shaft, shouldn't significantly move in the splines.

If the goal is recovering a piece of mind, and replacing random parts helps, carry on!

 

[Tools R Us]

you add 10 $ for shipping and you cost more, plus their website sucks for navigating

Agree, not the best website, I use the old fashion phone thingy, get someone that knows the type of rig I'm working on, never had a bad experience. Kurt does what he can to ensure the parts come from the proper place, not knockoff. Has put lots of sweat into OHV recreation, land use, access, event support, etc, something that I value. Ebay may do the same, or more, but from the cheap seats where I sit, see zero evidence of it.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

New website is coming, I promise

New shop (~15x more parts storage ) had to come first!

 

[Squeegee]

I recently replaced all 4 of my u-joints using GMB brand from Rock Auto. The are made in Japan and all 4 were under $40 .

GMB 2200020
GMB 2150021

I'll yet you know when they fail!

I just ordered some of these and was wondering if it was a mistake. Any updates on these? It’s hard to ignore the price

 

[1911garand]

I just ordered some of these and was wondering if it was a mistake. Any updates on these? It’s hard to ignore the price

0 issues with the GMB ones I got from RockAuto. So far, so good!

 

[Squeegee]

0 issues with the GMB ones I got from RockAuto. So far, so good!

That’s good to hear, thanks!