TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (10 Viewers)

[NCFJ]

Take your time, bring a trash bag and a roll of shop towels to the job, it's messy. If you have the time, clean up and paint the related parts. Use brass drifts to knock out the bearing races. If it gets frustrating, go pet the dog a while and come back a bit later.

 

[CUSailor]

Take your time, bring a trash bag and a roll of shop towels to the job, it's messy. If you have the time, clean up and paint the related parts. Use brass drifts to knock out the bearing races. If it gets frustrating, go pet the dog a while and come back a bit later.

Good tip on the brass drifts/punch for the races, I didn't think about that and had a set of steel punches. Looks like a trip to HF is in order. If I don't have the capability of blasting the parts, only scotch-briting them, should I still paint them, or is that only if you can get it down to true bare metal?

Petting the dog might not be the best solution, we've got a new teething puppy who will likely try to pull a jack stand out from under the car while I'm working.

 

[roadstr6]

Good tip on the brass drifts/punch for the races, I didn't think about that and had a set of steel punches. Looks like a trip to HF is in order. If I don't have the capability of blasting the parts, only scotch-briting them, should I still paint them, or is that only if you can get it down to true bare metal?

Petting the dog might not be the best solution, we've got a new teething puppy who will likely try to pull a jack stand out from under the car while I'm working.

If you don't have a blaster, just clean parts the best you can and paint them (and that's only to keep surface rust at bay on the cast pieces - mostly cosmetic). Keep track of your shim stacks and put them back like they were. The snap rings may fight you a little. Rod ends may fight you some too. Getting the axle shafts re-indexed into the pumpkin can be a challenge sometimes, and you have to take it easy on those new seals you just installed. Use plenty of grease. It's a fairly straightfoward job...just messy. You'll do fine.

 

[CUSailor]

If you don't have a blaster, just clean parts the best you can and paint them (and that's only to keep surface rust at bay on the cast pieces - mostly cosmetic). Keep track of your shim stacks and put them back like they were. The snap rings may fight you a little. Rod ends may fight you some too. Getting the axle shafts re-indexed into the pumpkin can be a challenge sometimes, and you have to take it easy on those new seals you just installed. Use plenty of grease. It's a fairly straightfoward job...just messy. You'll do fine.

Thanks all for the advice. One other quick question. Is there anything else I should do while I'm down there? I thought I might take the rotors to get resurfaced, replace the brake pads.

 

[Rice]

Place "check diff breather" on the list.
Don't skip to torque wrench specs.

You did not mention wheel bearings/races ... a good time for those also.
Well heck .... and then new spindles, spindle bushings, pads, rotors, calipers, brake lines, master cylinder, and fluids.

 

[CUSailor]

yep, got my torque wrenches ready to go. As far as wheel bearings, I was going to take a look at them when I get in there. If they are looking good I will reuse them, I would only want to replace those with OEM and I believe they can get a little pricey.

Aside from looking for wear, what else should I look for to see if those need replacing?

Goal is to get this job done, then pick up a new set of tires (I figured out that the set I have on right now are from 2007, oof), then rebuild the winch brake all in time for Relic Run. Replacing the bearings would likely knock out the winch rebuild, but that wouldn't be the end of the world.

 

[roadstr6]

Removing the rotors from the hubs can be quite a challenge. I use an air chisel. My thought on rotor resurfacing is this...if you are going to go to all the trouble to remove the rotors from the hubs, don't resurface them, just replace them. On the other hand, if you aren't getting any weird pedal vibes and if your brakes are working fine, just replace the pads and leave the rotors like they are.

Bearings are a judgement call. You will need to thoroughly clean each one in kerosene or equivalent and meticulously inspect them for wear. If they are damn near perfect, re-pack them and move on. If not, replace them. I think you will find that for the time and effort it takes to clean and inspect the bearings and races, you'd be better off just buying new ones. Kind-of the same type of situation as with the rotors...

 

[Rice]

Removing the rotors from the hubs can be quite a challenge. I use an air chisel. My thought on rotor resurfacing is this...if you are going to go to all the trouble to remove the rotors from the hubs, don't resurface them, just replace them. On the other hand, if you aren't getting any weird pedal vibes and if your brakes are working fine, just replace the pads and leave the rotors like they are.

Bearings are a judgement call. You will need to thoroughly clean each one in kerosene or equivalent and meticulously inspect them for wear. If they are damn near perfect, re-pack them and move on. If not, replace them.

Agree. I no longer resurface rotors .... Overboard on my part but I replace front rotors now with every brake job. Same with bearings .... some bearing damage is obvious, however, it is easy for bearings to wear and it not be visible .... so I replace them. Remember to pick up a new inner seal for the hub.

 

[roadstr6]

Another thought on re-using bearings is this: You'll be doing one axle side at a time, right? Let's say you get one side off, clean an inspect both bearings and they are good, then repack and button that side all up. Then you move on to the other side and determine that you have a bad bearing. What next? Replace the one bad one and run three other old ones? I guess that's okay and many legitimate shops would do that, but at that point you will start to question the lifespan of the old bearings you re-used and all the work you did to re-use them. To add insult to injury, your project will likely be stalled for at least a couple of days as you track down that one bearing and wait for it to show up. I've done it both ways. I've gotten lucky before and then I've had my share of bad luck too. It's a judgement call that only you can make.

 

[CUSailor]

Ok, looks like I'll need to put in another order, y'all have me convinced. As far as "inner seal for the hub", is that different than the inner axle seal? I found Outer Hub Axle seals. Would this be what I would need? Koyo Front Wheel Bearing Kit Seems cheaper than I was expecting. I thought those bearings were going to be $100+ each.

Brakes seem to work fine so I'll hold off on messing with the rotors.

 

[roadstr6]

Ok, looks like I'll need to put in another order, y'all have me convinced. As far as "inner seal for the hub", is that different than the inner axle seal? I found Outer Hub Axle seals. Would this be what I would need? Koyo Front Wheel Bearing Kit Seems cheaper than I was expecting. I thought those bearings were going to be $100+ each.

Brakes seem to work fine so I'll hold off on messing with the rotors.

The inner axle seal is different from the hub seal. The hub seal is included with the bearing kit you linked. That kit is correct for your truck and Koyo bearings are good quality. You will need two kits. The inner seals are usually part of the knuckle rebuild kit and they go on the axle housing behind the knuckles, deep into this greasy mess of parts. Inner seals are the last things to come out and the first things that go back in upon reassembly.

 

[CUSailor]

The inner axle seal is different from the hub seal. The hub seal is included with the bearing kit you linked. That kit is correct for your truck and Koyo bearings are good quality. You will need two kits. The inner seals are usually part of the knuckle rebuild kit and they go on the axle housing behind the knuckles, deep into this greasy mess of parts. Inner seals are the last things to come out and the first things that go back in upon reassembly.

Perfect, so the inner hub seal would be the same as the inner axle seal then? I have those with the kit and bought a third just in case I screw up one of the two in there.

Edit: Never mind, I can't read.

 

[Rice]

No serious wrenching, but there is something oddly satisfying about new belts.

 

[Rice]

And while I was working on the mower, our mini-tractor is a hydrostatic drive. For years it has bugged me that my size 14 shoe could only barely heel/toe forward and reverse. So I welded on a couple extra foot tabs.

 

[SFROMAN]

Lots of maintenance today after work.
I hate when all my vehicles need maintenance at the same time.

daily driver
Honda Fit
Oil change
Oil filter change
Rotate tires

Honda Pilot
Oil change
Oil filter change
Transmission fluid change

F250
engine oil change
Oil filter change
Fuel filters x 2 the frame one is a pain in the butt to change
transfer case oil change
Front dif oil change
Rear dif oil change
Transmission fluid change -only did 13 quarts out of the pan because that’s all they had at the parts store - the pan alone holds 16 quarts

Lots of dang fluids. To top it off both difs and the transmission on the f250 have maghytech covers so they hold double capacity.

 

[CUSailor]

Two quick questions 1) can someone advise me which side of this wheel bearing oil seal faces the bearing? I've looked and can't seem to find the answer. 2) I was expecting a snap ring to be holding the hub on to the axle but it was a screw with a cap, see photo 3. Any idea what the torque should be on this? I don't know what it's called and the only fsm I found shows it being a snap ring.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Two quick questions 1) can someone advise me which side of this wheel bearing oil seal faces the bearing? I've looked and can't seem to find the answer. 2) I was expecting a snap ring to be holding the hub on to the axle but it was a screw with a cap, see photo 3. Any idea what the torque should be on this? I don't know what it's called and the only fsm I found shows it being a snap ring.

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Your first pic of the seal faces the bearing.

That bolt and two washers is not stock or at least nothing I’ve ever seen. My guess is someone used that instead of a snap ring to make whatever hubs and birfs ‘work’.

 

[CUSailor]

That....sounds about right for this vehicle. Thanks for the help, no wonder I couldn't find it anywhere.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Warn selectable hubs use a bolt and washer arrangement to locate the birfield. Aisin selectable hubs do not, and of course neither do drive flanges.

 

[CUSailor]

Warn selectable hubs use a bolt and washer arrangement to locate the birfield. Aisin selectable hubs do not, and of course neither do drive flanges.

That's it then, I have Warn. Mystery solved. What is the name of it so I can look for a torque spec?