TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (11 Viewers)

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My thoughts exactly :)
Tis a whole new game now
Congrats man, now get her done.
 
Not vehicle related, but...

My samsung dishwasher s*** the bed for the last time Thursday night (I won't give them the respect of a capital "S"). Just shy of 3 years old. NOT cheap. Regular and multiple problems. My attempted final repair only managed to destroy the part that needed attention, and severely dented the stainless door, while simply sliding it out from under the counter. That resulted in 'kittens and puppies and butterflies frolicking in a lovely field of flowers under a rainbow-filled sky' (me ripping the ****ing door off and cursing to holy hell). So yesterday I go to Lowe's and buy a budget Whirlpool since our kitchen remodel has now been moved back until next fall and I need something to get through the holidays ASAP.

I learned 2 things: 1 - Whirlpool hates me (SUPER noisy, lots of sharp metal corners/edges and 'not included' but necessary parts, terrible design and installation, needs sockets/phillips & flat/wrench/allen/torx). 2 - samsung made a well built and well insulated product. They lost it with their circuitry and the stupid way they route incoming & outgoing water through sensors that fail regularly in fragile plastic parts along with a system that allows blockages but no way to access and clear them. Not so oddly, both my samsung fridge and dishwasher began to fail within 1 @jamesurq (2 weeks) after end-of-warranty. They had both replaced perfectly fine, but fairly inefficient, 25+ yr old items. I seem to recall @Izzyandsue once saying something about a certain USA truck brand engineering life expectancy to warranty duration; hmmmm.

So anyway, it only took 12 hours to do the removal/install, but that was with lunch, beer with the neighbor who helped me carry it in, 3 birthday parties, a stop at Target, helping Sarah rehang curtains and all the other things that...oh, look, a squirrel! I feel pretty good about that. I actually had all of the "necessary but NOT included" parts for once so I didn't have to make a pissed off return to the store (where, of course, the salesman had specifically said that everything needed was in the box).

Maybe I'll get to the 80's CEL #21 next week so it'll pass inspection in January. Or February. Or March.
Same experience here with Samsung that lasted all of 2 years. I finally broke down, after the 2nd Christmas without one, and bought a Frigidaire today. After listening to my complaining the salesman asked me how long I thought I should get out of an appliance.. 8-10 years at least I replied....he actually laughed. Said I would be lucky to get 5. They are all garbage. The salesman said he had been selling appliance for 20 years. Manufacturing now is designed to keep money continually in the system. ..ie...built in obsolescence.
 
Ahh the fun of it all. Under body cleaned in prep for Lizard Skin. Silver is body, tan is Toyota applied, black later on.

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Axle out, on the rack, disassembled and shaved. Welded up the drain plug hole, need to do a finish grind, clean, paint then start the ARB install :bounce:

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Axle rack has worked absolutely perfectly. Used the engine hoist to get the axle up there. This really beats working on the ground or on a flat table. My back is thanking me.

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I accidentally let the pinion housing drop out of the axle into the bucket, which broke it, and spilled oil everywhere :rolleyes:

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Welds came out just fine. Ground smooth, finished breaking everything down, shot everything with paint, including pinion support and yoke (not pictured):

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My new "13 bolt"

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Preview:

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Ring gear installed and torqued on the ARB carrier. Everything else cleaned, painted and ready to go!!

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Maybe I missed it? Why are you eliminating the drain plug?

It's necessary on this axle to eliminate the drain plug to execute the "shave", which takes off about 1.5 or 1.75" of the "unnecessary" material off the bottom of the diff. This gives me more ground clearance, which is excellent :D

FWIW, all 14Bolts prior to this variation had no drain plugs, just like most domestic axles (including my front dana 60). To drain, you must remove the diff cover. Not a big deal, gives you an excuse to touch it up and it doesn't need to be done that often.
 
It's necessary on this axle to eliminate the drain plug to execute the "shave", which takes off about 1.5 or 1.75" of the "unnecessary" material off the bottom of the diff. This gives me more ground clearance, which is excellent :D

FWIW, all 14Bolts prior to this variation had no drain plugs, just like most domestic axles (including my front dana 60). To drain, you must remove the diff cover. Not a big deal, gives you an excuse to touch it up and it doesn't need to be done that often.
once again I learn something new......
 
Look at you all "Pretty in Pink"
Haha

Nice work! I know that's been on the list for a while now. I'm sure you are glad to have it done. :beer:
 
Look at you all "Pretty in Pink"
Haha

Nice work! I know that's been on the list for a while now. I'm sure you are glad to have it done. :beer:

I will be glad once it's done, but I'm not there yet :lol:
 
It's necessary on this axle to eliminate the drain plug to execute the "shave", which takes off about 1.5 or 1.75" of the "unnecessary" material off the bottom of the diff. This gives me more ground clearance, which is excellent :D

FWIW, all 14Bolts prior to this variation had no drain plugs, just like most domestic axles (including my front dana 60). To drain, you must remove the diff cover. Not a big deal, gives you an excuse to touch it up and it doesn't need to be done that often.

Looks great Johnny.

Perhaps some black lettering on the diff cover to make it complete.



ce44e5f9efc9f85b02a59d8d83aedc1a.jpg
 
An LC mechanic’s whine…..

So I’m leaning on the tailgate of my truck, talking with my neighbor who is up measuring my roof for new shingles and I look over at Heather’s 80 and lo and behold I see what appears to be oil running down the inside of the tire. CRAP!!!! I have the parts on the shelf, been waiting for that rainy day, you know. Lift is tied up currently as is the second bay. Looks like it will have to wait. Why is it the shoemaker’s kids always need new shoes.
 
Shoemaker doesnt have a floorjack? :D

Murphy didnt take a holiday it seems.
 
Shoemaker does not do stoop work when it can be done at chest level :)
 
DS Fender Patched

Got antsy on my day off and decided to continue to tidy up the drivers side of my FJ40. I have about three visable areas to continue to address on the DS, the rear sill(yikes), a couple little spots on the rocker panel sandwiched behind the step(want to avoid broken bolts), and finally the middle spot on fender(metal shaping required).

I decided to dive in and address the fender, even though I was not sure how to shape the metal to the tricky body curves.... "It didn't look that bad initially..."

Here's the "before"... Trust me it was way worse once I started digging... Like usual the PO thought of bondo more of an adhesive than a filler... Chunks of stuff hidden and not much metal

image.jpeg



Here's the "after" shot of current state (not finished but good for now)... The contour isn't perfect but I'm hoping some bondo and sanding will do the trick

image.jpeg



Here's some "in process" shots... Basically secured the top with some tacks. Then little by little bent the metal and did series of tacks every 1/4 inch after resecuring/bending.

image.jpeg


image.jpeg



The hardest part was bending in the lip... Poor planning on my part... When in doubt just bust out a hammer...
Secured it with some clamps for leverage, then put a dolly on the backside and just went to town getting my monthly stress relief...


image.jpeg
 
Had @S4Cruiser and @ontherxs over to share a few beers and lend a hand putting the diff together a few days ago. Got the pinion support all together and preload set after the 4th shim combination :doh:, housing drilled, tapped and clearanced, then the carrier popped in and initial backlash set. Didn't take many pictures, but I'm planning on setting the pattern today:

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