TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (18 Viewers)

[NCFJ]

I have been using the Terrain Tamer rotors and pads on 60 series builds for a while now and am very happy with the performance. I can get them to lock up without a whole lot of bother.

 

[izzyandsue]

Trying to order parts for the maintenance, regearing, locking of the Lx450 axles. Already ordered the rebuild kit. Want to upgrade brakes while I’m at it. What is everybody upgrading to? Rotors? Pads? Brake lines?

I was just going to go with Toyota oem parts. Unless someone has real world experience with something that is actually better.

These EBC Supreme pads made a huge difference on my 80, better than the standard green ones (6000 series) which are better than stock as well. I used regular rotors.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001C8YR0I/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2HS7NAFFQWU4K&colid=2KE4V84PIA5ZQ

 

[S4Cruiser]

Ordered one of those tools to remove trim plugs to clean out behind the front fender liners on the Chevy. Holy s***...if you own a classic body you need to do this too. Tons of crap packed in there...like a compost bin.

This truck has never been Offroad but has been parked outside.

 

[SFROMAN]

Any advise on the purchase of a used winch would be greatly appreciated.

Just don’t want to spend the money for a used one that I could spend for another model in new condition and then find out that it was one of those too good to be true deals

For Sale - Warn 8274-50 Winch

 

[S4Cruiser]

Any advise on the purchase of a used winch would be greatly appreciated.

Just don’t want to spend the money for a used one that I could spend for another model in new condition and then find out that it was one of those too good to be true deals

For Sale - Warn 8274-50 Winch

Not necessarliy advice but personal experience. I picked up a used 8274 6 years or so ago from a mud member for 600 bucs. It was been cleaned up but wasn't mint and not near as nice looking as the one you linked. I purchased a couple things from warn and wired it up. Has worked great every time I've used it.

Unless they are royally fxxxed then things like solenoids and such can be replaced. Or like Johnny did, swamp in a new motor. 800 is a good price for a clean working 8274' they're like 1900 new.

 

[SFROMAN]

Not necessarliy advice but personal experience. I picked up a used 8274 6 years or so ago from a mud member for 600 bucs. It was been cleaned up but wasn't mint and not near as nice looking as the one you linked. I purchased a couple things from warn and wired it up. Has worked great every time I've used it.

Unless they are royally ****ed then things like solenoids and such can be replaced. Or like Johnny did, swamp in a new motor. 800 is a good price for a clean working 8274' they're like 1900 new.

Thanks

I contacted the seller already. To the best of his knowledge it is in very good condition with very little use. I researched a little and read a few threads in tips and advise on buying a used winch but as usual I rather just ask guys here. I tend to put more weight on responses I get from you guys here than what I read online from random people.

 

[izzyandsue]

Thanks

I contacted the seller already. To the best of his knowledge it is in very good condition with very little use. I researched a little and read a few threads in tips and advise on buying a used winch but as usual I rather just ask guys here. I tend to put more weight on responses I get from you guys here than what I read online from random people.

If that doesnt work out for you, check out the sale price on the TigerShark 11500 SR: Superwinch Tiger Shark

 

[S4Cruiser]

Thanks

I contacted the seller already. To the best of his knowledge it is in very good condition with very little use. I researched a little and read a few threads in tips and advise on buying a used winch but as usual I rather just ask guys here. I tend to put more weight on responses I get from you guys here than what I read online from random people.

Also, what are you putting it on? It's a big bitch but fits the front of a 40 or 60 nicely. Depending on the bumper you plan to run, I'd probably choose to run some thing a bit slimmer on the mini or 80. I had a m8000 on my 80 and liked it.

 

[NC LX]

I read about the 100 series pads. Does not improve brake performance. They just last longer. So might be worth going that route.

FWIW i was not able to run the 100 pads with new rotors and old calipers even after removing the shim. The calipers must have worn into a happy range and would not open wide enough to run the 100 pads. New calipers at same time and it might not have been an issue.

Ill add I ran the 100 pads for a a few months. I was getting a weird feedback through the pedal with them when I stopped. I swapped back to the 80 pads and the symptoms went away.
Also Couldn't tell a difference in stopping. Felt better about putting it back to what is was designed to have anyways.

 

[SFROMAN]

If that doesnt work out for you, check out the sale price on the TigerShark 11500 SR: Superwinch Tiger Shark

cool thanks. I will check out the tiger shark.

 

[SFROMAN]

Also, what are you putting it on? It's a big bitch but fits the front of a 40 or 60 nicely. Depending on the bumper you plan to run, I'd probably choose to run some thing a bit slimmer on the mini or 80. I had a m8000 on my 80 and liked it.

Well I was thinking about putting in front of the mini. I plan to build my own front bumper for it so there would be no need to try to fit it into a particular existing bumper.

 

[SFROMAN]

Ill add I ran the 100 pads for a a few months. I was getting a weird feedback through the pedal with them when I stopped. I swapped back to the 80 pads and the symptoms went away.
Also Couldn't tell a difference in stopping. Felt better about putting it back to what is was designed to have anyways.

I decided to not go with the 100 series pads. I ordered ebc pads front and rear.

 

[lumbee1]

I have EBC greens with OEM rotors (100 series pads in the front). Good stopping power but after removing the leaking and out of adjustment LSPV in the rear, I have great stopping power.

 

[Rice]

I have EBC greens with OEM rotors (100 series pads in the front). Good stopping power but after removing the leaking and out of adjustment LSPV in the rear, I have great stopping power.

Similar .... I was getting way too much brake fade when in the mountains. Step one was cut loose LSVP lever from the axle and zip tie it for maximum rear bias (which is still short of allowing the rears to lockup first) ... then put EBC greens up front. Last trip to the mountains was much better.

 

[NC LX]

Similar .... I was getting way too much brake fade when in the mountains. Step one was cut loose LSVP lever from the axle and zip tie it for maximum rear bias (which is still short of allowing the rears to lockup first) ... then put EBC greens up front. Last trip to the mountains was much better.

Can you elaborate on the this. What's involved? Now that I'm getting my steering dialed in, my brakes are next. My pedal has way to much of a "spongey feel"

I've been looking a adding a set of Wildwood calipers. Jonathan at TLC runs them on his resto 80's.

 

[izzyandsue]

ON the EBC greens, they carry 6000 and 7000 series. They look exactly alike but the 7000 ones are more expensive and made a yuge difference on my 80. Put them in the front and, wow, no more Flintstones braking power.

 

[Rice]

Can you elaborate on the this. What's involved? Now that I'm getting my steering dialed in, my brakes are next. My pedal has way to much of a "spongey feel"

I've been looking a adding a set of Wildwood calipers. Jonathan at TLC runs them on his resto 80's.

I had suspected part of the reason I was getting brake fade on mountain slopes had to do with a mild (3 inch) lift on the vehicle which a properly functioning LSVP interprets as "light in the rear" and sends more brake bias to the front. In other words, I didn't feel like the rear brakes were doing their fair share. There are numerous adjustments you can do to correct for the 3" lift (and plenty threads if you search for LSVP) but I said "$%&@-it" and cut the actuating arm about 6 inches from the LSVP and zip tied it into the "maximum rear bias" position (again, this can be misread as sending too much bias to the rear .... It sends maximum allowed bias to the rear which, in my opinion, is still less than 50%). I may find I get added wear to the rear pads, which I'm okay with, as long as the rear's are not locking up at maximum effort .... they are not. Even if they were there is still ABS. My normal reaction to a jack-leg fix like this would be to "properly adjust the LSVP the first time" but I'm happy with the brakes the way they are and if the LSVP needs future adjustment there is enough arm left over for me to build in just such a feature. The system still has some "sponge" to it but have a good bleed planned which I just haven't gotten to yet.

I've read many accounts of others having sponge issues .... several say that because there is no easy way to bleed an ABS system it "helps" to go down a dirt road and activate the ABS a few times just before bleeding, which I plan to try. I will report back if it helps any.

EDIT: Sorry .... no pictures. Maybe can grab one later if you like.

 

[lumbee1]

Here is what I did for the LSPV.
Best calipers

 

[Rice]

Meh. I was hoping to report a brighter outcome but today was a wash. Set out to clean up the birfs and spindles from my junk yard acquisition and prep for parts swap into the 80. As it happens with junk yard parts, sometimes it's junk. Birfs, stars, cages .... all spent, as were the spindles. I ended up with some spare axles, a couple nice paperweights, and a new paper towel dispenser.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Cruisin right along. Got both battery boxes finished and the inner fenders tied into the new modified core support.

Cut a plate that matches the fender and core support contours, weld the fender to the plate both top and bottom, trim the fender away, then smooth.

Battery boxes:

a