TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (4 Viewers)

[Rice]

So I've got an older (early 2000s) Stihl 018c chainsaw that I got used.

So far, I've rebuilt the stock carb and installed a new chinese carb...and a new spark plug and air filter.

All it will do is spit and sputter and eventually even out for a few secs with the choke on, and when I open the choke just a fraction, it revs to full throttle (and beyond it seems...it really screams) regardless of throttle input. It will rev to 10 million RPMs and then cut off. The only way to keep it running is to feather the choke arm and hold it about between closed and 1% open. Even then it chokes off.

When it runs, it sounds fine (well until it revs to oblivion)

It seems as though there is an air leak and thats why it only runs on only choke but I have no idea where that would be. The part about over revving confuses me without throttle input is weird as well. Anyone here have more insight? The rebuilt carb and the new carb behave the same. Thanks

A lean condition can make the over-rev happen, i.e. air is getting in from somewhere. Because you have had the same thing happen with 2 separate carbs the leak is likely coming from a bad crank seal.

EDIT .... depending on how crazy you want to get ....

Main bearings and seals for $11:

Amazon.com : SaferCCTV(TM) 2 Crankshaft Bearing and 2 Oil Seal For Stihl MS170 MS180 017 018 Chainsaw Replacement Part#9503 003 0311 & 9639 003 1585 & 9638 003 1585 : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Or the whole shebang for $50:
REBUILD KIT FOR FOR STIHL 018, MS 180

 

[jfz80]

Bed looks great Johnny; glad to help man!

Got to include our crucial piece of good luck rigging, the horseshoe that made all the difference. That and who doesn't love grinding by flashlight?

 

[lt1fire]

looking like a good hauler

 

[onemanarmy]

A lean condition can make the over-rev happen, i.e. air is getting in from somewhere. Because you have had the same thing happen with 2 separate carbs the leak is likely coming from a bad crank seal.

EDIT .... depending on how crazy you want to get ....

Main bearings and seals for $11:

Amazon.com : SaferCCTV(TM) 2 Crankshaft Bearing and 2 Oil Seal For Stihl MS170 MS180 017 018 Chainsaw Replacement Part#9503 003 0311 & 9639 003 1585 & 9638 003 1585 : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Or the whole shebang for $50:
REBUILD KIT FOR FOR STIHL 018, MS 180

thanks

 

[NCFJ]

The radiator came in today for the LS3 swap! Using a Ron Davis with twin fans for this project.

 

[slceso]

what do you guys think about this?
GPFJ80-SELECT-2
I have been considering regear, but I thought it was going to be more like $600 for parts and their kit is more like $1300 minus some e-locker shims that I know nothing about. I've never done anything like this, but I'd like to think I could figure it out. Is this the kind of thing to try solo, or should I just go to a shop? Since I DD this I don't want to be without it for a long time, but moreover I don't want to fck it all up.

Thoughts?

 

[pkniland]

what do you guys think about this?
GPFJ80-SELECT-2
I have been considering regear, but I thought it was going to be more like $600 for parts and their kit is more like $1300 minus some e-locker shims that I know nothing about. I've never done anything like this, but I'd like to think I could figure it out. Is this the kind of thing to try solo, or should I just go to a shop? Since I DD this I don't want to be without it for a long time, but moreover I don't want to fck it all up.

Thoughts?

I am currently having a shop do it for me, I am going to send you a PM with the details.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

what do you guys think about this?
GPFJ80-SELECT-2
I have been considering regear, but I thought it was going to be more like $600 for parts and their kit is more like $1300 minus some e-locker shims that I know nothing about. I've never done anything like this, but I'd like to think I could figure it out. Is this the kind of thing to try solo, or should I just go to a shop? Since I DD this I don't want to be without it for a long time, but moreover I don't want to fck it all up.

Thoughts?

If you've got plenty of patience, absolutely, give it a shot! I've built a few differentials (35k+ driven miles on the diffs in moonshine). It's not that bad, but there is definitely a learning curve. You need a BIG vice and a way to hold the differential on the workbench to do the setup. You'll also need a dial indicator and mag base for it, which is cheap through harbor freight or enco.

Read up here, plenty of LC gear install examples, a few with e-lockers.

Gear Install Harrop

 

[SFROMAN]

Two questions.

Where do you guys buy steal around the Raleigh area? I need to build a rear bumper for my 82.
A quick search resulted with
Dillon supply company
Metal supermarket
Heavy metal supply

Also where do you guys rent,lease, fill tanks for welding. I do not own a tank because I was waiting to purchase one from the place that will fill it so I don't have any issues. I see there quite a few places just by doing a quick search.

Thanks

 

[S4Cruiser]

Two questions.

Where do you guys buy steal around the Raleigh area? I need to build a rear bumper for my 82.
A quick search resulted with
Dillon supply company
Metal supermarket
Heavy metal supply

Also where do you guys rent,lease, fill tanks for welding. I do not own a tank because I was waiting to purchase one from the place that will fill it so I don't have any issues. I see there quite a few places just by doing a quick search.

Thanks

I like Dillon supply, mainly since I use a buddy's account and just pay him...he can get cheaper prices than I can as he buys a lot.

I purchased both my tanks from arc3 in Durham but I'm sure they have a location (or 3) n Raleigh. Good prices and they carry a decent amount of other stuff for both miller and Lincoln plus hypertherm.

 

[NCFJ]

Shop around between both suppliers and tank sizes. I switched companies several years back. I bought (99 year lease) a bigger tank in the deal. It took a year and a half for me to recover the cost of the new tank, all major savings from there. I still have the old tank as well that I can swap out for another gas if I want or just keep it as back up.

Ask them what size most of their regular customers use, therefore they stock the most. This will more than likely be a pretty large tank that you see in shops all the time. The other benefit is fewer fill runs.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I like Dillon supply, mainly since I use a buddy's account and just pay him...he can get cheaper prices than I can as he buys a lot.

I purchased both my tanks from arc3 in Durham but I'm sure they have a location (or 3) n Raleigh. Good prices and they carry a decent amount of other stuff for both miller and Lincoln plus hypertherm.

I don't have an account with Dillon but they're still my go-to. Super easy to do business with those guys and they sell shop supplies too!

I typically use Airgas because they're closer to me.

 

[izzyandsue]

Minor electrowizardly wrenching this morning, dryer with F01 code, board failure. YouTube and internet to the rescue, solder iron saved me $200. Back in business

 

[pkniland]

I am putting the finishing touches on my dual batter set up and as part of it I am planning to run a 1/0 gauge wire back to the cargo area. It will be an 10' foot run. From this I was going to break off a 4/gauge for my 300 watt amp, a 4 gauge for my 1000watt inverter, and a 8 gauge for a small fuse block. Based on max possible amp draw, I am going to have either a 125 or 150 MEGA fuse on the 0 gauge. I just had a question when it gets to the cargo area. Would you use a common busbar Like this (Amp rating is 150)

or go with a distribution block like this (cant find amp rating for these blocks)

Or is there any real distance. Additionally, would you fuse between the block/busbar and the device as well?

 

[NCFJ]

Given the choices I would use the buss bar. Yes, you should use a fuse on each circuit. That in mind I'd go with some sort of heavy fuse block instead of the buss bar and individual fuse holders.

Check out Waytec, they carry a great variety of electrical products.

 

[weejub]

So . . stealing from all that I learned on my dual battery set up:

1. You will want a fuse "upstream" as far as possible on the load side as near as the battery as possible. Stan and Andrew and others turned me on to 3/8" terminal fuses: Terminal Fuse Blocks - Blue Sea Systems
2. You size the wire to the load and then the fuse to the wire. http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/reference/20010.pdf
3. Here is an example of what Stan is talking about as a fuse block, but from Blue Sea, cause I was already in the site: ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover - Blue Sea Systems

 

[pawwright]

Just finished doing the rear brake pads in the rain and mud, no pics - wasn't raining when I started, but I am slow......

 

[pkniland]

Given the choices I would use the buss bar. Yes, you should use a fuse on each circuit. That in mind I'd go with some sort of heavy fuse block instead of the buss bar and individual fuse holders.

Check out Waytec, they carry a great variety of electrical products.

That is a better idea. I found this which should work, I had never heard of MRBF fuses.

 

[pkniland]

So . . stealing from all that I learned on my dual battery set up:

1. You will want a fuse "upstream" as far as possible on the load side as near as the battery as possible. Stan and Andrew and others turned me on to 3/8" terminal fuses: Terminal Fuse Blocks - Blue Sea Systems
2. You size the wire to the load and then the fuse to the wire. http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/reference/20010.pdf
3. Here is an example of what Stan is talking about as a fuse block, but from Blue Sea, cause I was already in the site: ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover - Blue Sea Systems

After readying stans post I found those terminal blocks, I had never heard of them before. The Blade fuse block I am going to put in the rear off of one of the main leads. It will be all low voltage items (interior led lights and such.) Its funny how my budget dual battery build has turned into just the opposite .

 

[weejub]

After readying stans post I found those terminal blocks, I had never heard of them before. The Blade fuse block I am going to put in the rear off of one of the main leads. It will be all low voltage items (interior led lights and such.) Its funny how my budget dual battery build has turned into just the opposite .

Yea me either until AFTER I had bought ANL fuses

If you (or anyone) needs the Blue Sea ANL fuse holder, let me know - I have two extra and a ton of 80 and 150 amp fuses.

You will still need a fuse up near the battery for your 1 AWG. Given you are only going 10 feet do you have to go 1 AWG? You may be able to go smaller? You may already have it on hand.