For Sale Turbocharger for 3b (1 Viewer)

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I have the upfacing oilfilter and I used a 13bt manifold for my turbo, I use a wix 51085 like Greg mentioned with no problems Its basically half the size of the original. It fits in there just fine though and been doing that for 8 years.
Looks like a great product from a great guy. I wouldnt hesitate to buy one!
 
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gerg said:
I asked for measurements but he didn't get back to me. I'm still interested in checking on it though.
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I will put it on my lengthy to-do list and shoot you a PM. Unless anyone watching this thread has put one of these on a 3B in a narrow nose 70 series and wants to chime in before I pull out the tape.
 
At first look, it would appear that neither brake master or clutch master should be in the way. I measured about 14 inches from the second bolt on the valve cover to the center of the clutch master and 19 to the center of the brake master. What appears to be in the way are the hoses for and maybe the PS reservoir but that appears to be in the same place as LHD so maybe not.
Obviously the routing of those hoses would need to be carefully done so nothing hits the exhaust bits or the hot turbo.
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The PS reservoir will need to move to the RH fender (there are holes for it already).

You will need to build a shield for the clutch master since it is pretty close to the turbo and the downpipe. It gets hot there.

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Those are some great pics guys. I'll measure it up this weekend for the offsets. I wrap the downpipe as a rule but I can do a heavier wrap if it's close to sensitive items. A turbo blanket would help some too. I built one that was like an inch from a battery and it worked out well. Wrapping can do some serious insulating. Like enough to put your hand on after running it hard.
 
Putting a turbo blanket in might be all that needs to be done. The down pipe wrap is surprisingly effective. The turbine housing can radiate considerable heat. I guess spillage and fire is still a worry though.
 
Here's one I was assembling today. Haven't wrapped the downpipe yet but dimentions remain the same. I think it can technically fit under the power steering resevoir but it would be tight and you'd have to get creative with the hose routing. Given the pic by crzr45 it will work. It comes out 10.5" at its furthest point so it gives a good amount of room off the master cylinder. Extra wrap on the down pipe I can do easily, just ask, and a turbo blanket will also decrease radiant heat. In my mind a heat shield is a good idea but debatable as to if it would be required.

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Ok so here is a simple walk through got adjusting the timing.

First I recomend loosening the injection lines where they attach to the injection pump and the injectors. There are also some little rubber keepers that secure the injection lines from vibrating. Good to loosen those too. This will take the stress off the injection lines while the pump is moved.
 
Next reach under the injection pump and loosen the bottom nut on the pump. This is right beside a hard oil line. If your not familiar with it you can often get a better view from looking underneath the vehicle.

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At the back of the pump is a small nut that stabilizes the end of the pump and loosening it also helps rotate the pump. Not a good picture but it's a cramped space. It's the nut in the very center of the pic with the fuel line running directly behind it.

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Put the wrench on the last nut on the side of the pump but don't loosen it yet. Then put a big screwdriver or a prybar in behind the pump so as to not injure any of the lines. Then loosen the bolt while pulling down on the prybar bringing the stamp marks like where the screw driver is pointing. The stamp on the left doesn't move, the stamp on the right moves with the pump. This sets the pump slightly retarded. Tighten the nut back up and all the rest of them too. No need to over tighten them.

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New kit on deck - thanks Greg!

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To the group: I would love to run this little bugger on a dyno for pre and post install runs. So far all the shops in my area (D.C., MD, VA) seem to be either high-end exotics or bro-dozer diesel shops and I'm not trying to blow major coin on this. Just want to see actual performance gains with proper fuel adjustment. The only cruiser specific that comes up is Landcruser heaven, but they dont have a dyno and do have a questionable rep. If anybody has any recommendations or knows of a reputable shop that won't get all douchey that the 3Bs dont put out 10000 ft/lbs of torque, I would like to do this for my fellow oil burners.
 
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mdkaboom said:
New kit on deck - thanks Greg!

********
To the group: I would love to run this little bugger on a dyno for pre and post install runs. So far all the shops in my area (D.C., MD, VA) seem to be either high-end exotics or bro-dozer diesel shops and I'm not trying to blow major coin on this. Just want to see actual performance gains with proper fuel adjustment. The only cruiser specific that comes up is Landcruser heaven, but they dont have a dyno and do have a questionable rep. If anybody has any recommendations or knows of a reputable shop that won't get all douchey that the 3Bs dont put out 10000 ft/lbs of torque, I would like to do this for my fellow oil burners.
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A diesel performance shop in my town has an annual 'Dyno Day' and they invite everything diesel for a free dyno. Keep an eye out for that kind of an event and if they are a good shop, they'd be more than thrilled to have your 105hp monster show up for a test! :) (105 is a guess, I have not dynod mine)
 
Can this kit work on a 3BII in a 75 series? Or to be able to make a kit for it?
Thx
 
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