For Sale Turbocharger for 3b

[mdkaboom]

Is there a bung or port/spot for a pyrometer sensor?

 

[gerg]

Yes. I weld in a 1/8 npt bung for pyrometer on my adaptor.

 

[mdkaboom]

Yes. I weld in a 1/8 npt bung for pyrometer on my adaptor.

Thanks! - pm sent.

 

[Varty Yo]

Looks familiar!!!

 

[gerg]

Put this on a bj60 reciently.

 

[Varty Yo]

Yup basically what my plan was to adapt to the 40 series air cleaner. You take the lid off a 70 series and cut the inner piece out the ntrace and do the same on the 40 series. Then weld the 70 series to the 40 to have the nice round outlet to attach your silicone hose to.

 

[gerg]

Cool.

 

[gerg]

I've just put a few more kits together if anyone's interested.

 

[FullyLitLED]

Are these made to order?

 

[gerg]

I can ship right now if your interested.

 

[gerg]

So thought I'd put up a step by step install.

First and foremost I recomend spraying penetrating lube on the exhaust manifod bolts well in advance of doing the install. Like spray them a couple times a day for a couple weeks. Sounds overkill until you break a bolt. Then life can get pretty hard. Breaking bolts is rare but it does happen. Removing the stock heat shield makes Spraying them a lot easier. If you find one that is particularly stuck you can heat it up really hot with a torch and then spray it down with water to shock the bolt and free up some of the rust inside. These bolts love to rust .

Unbolting the downpipe is always an option and if you want to do that I'd spray them also with oil well before removing them but I've found cutting with a sawzall to be much easier. Adapting your exhaust to the turbo down pipe is much lower down so if you cut a couple inches down from the flange it will give you lots of pipe to work with.

 

[gerg]

After the manifold is off clean and scrape off the gasket surface with a razor blade. It's cast iron so you can be pretty aggressive with cleaning. I always have a shop vac handy to suck up debris. Unbolt all of the 12mm boots holding the lifter cover on. Gently pry the cover off with a couple flat screwdrivers or chisels. Be gentle. These bend and deform easily. I require the old cover in trade so be kind. Also loosen the bracket that steadys the blowby tube which attaches lower down by the oil filter.

My scraping tools but a big flat screwdriver and a razor blade is all you really need.

Clean it up really well down to the metal. Old gasket can be quite hard to remove. I spray with wd40 and the gasket material turns black which makes it easier to spot. Make sure crap doesn't fall into the engine. Again shop vac makes this a lot easier.

 

[gerg]

The first thing I bolt up is the new lifter cover as it takes it a while for the rtv silicone to set up. I use to use the cork gasket material but it always leaks. You can if you want to but I use rtv silicone and haven't had leaks since.

I first put a thin swipe of silicone onto the block gasket surface. This helps the silicone on the cover bond easier.

I then run a generous bead into the groove on the mating surface of the cover. This is just an example but I do the whole cover just in case some one thinks your suppose to only do one corner. Do the whole thing!

I then bolt the cover on and tighten the bolts just enough to see silicone squish out. I then let it sit until the install is done or a couple hours. Which ever comes first. By letting it firm up it won't completely squish out when you do the final tightening. Over tightening is your enemy with these covers.

 

[gerg]

You can then locate the oil pressure sender directly under the oil drain. Sometimes the low oil pressure shut off is in that location but it doesn't really matter which ones in that location. Unbolt it.

After tightening your new adaptors and oil fittings screw them into the block to look like this. Some folks use Teflon tape and some hate the stuff. I leave the brass fittings loose so you can put them together how you like. I use Teflon myself.

Put your exhaust manifold gasket on and bolt on your exhaust manifold. This is a good time to fit and Mark your egt probe as you can set the tip to sample the middle of the gas stream. If you don't want to risk damaging it during the install just mark the depth with a felt and install it later to judge the depth.

 

[gerg]

Loosen the gear clamp on the oil drain hose. I leave it tight cus the stainless braid loosen and frays if not clamped.

Place your turbo inlet gasket.

Place turbo on by lining up the oil drain pipe with the return hose and slide it in about an inch. Line up flange bolts and snug them down. Tighten up oil drain gear clamps.

 

[gerg]

Place turbo outlet gasket on and bolt on the down pipe. So you might not want to tighten them yet as you might need to remove it to make fitting your exhaust easier. My fingers pointing to one of the turbo bolts that you can't get to unless the down pipe is off the turbo. Just an FYI.

Install oil feed line. Don't over tighten. These take very little torque to seal. If you don't happen to tighten them up enough it's not the end of the world. Just tighten them a smidge more when you run and test it When you look for leaks. Make sure you tighten the bottom one up too.

 

[gerg]

Now slide the charge pipe with clamps into the turbo. Tighten up the clamps. They can handle quite a bit of force but over tightening is not better. You should see the hose compress but the clamp has the ability to damage the hose if you tighten them too much. I just tighten them until I feel a decient amount of resistance. These clamps have beveled edges designed to not cut the hose when tightened.

Now it's time to snug the lifter cover bolts. Again over tightening almost guarantees oil leaks. Just tighten them until you feel a decient amount of resistance but I error on the side of looser. The silicone makes the seal. The bolt just holds the cover in place.

 

[gerg]

Now it time to hook up your reference line to your boost gauge.

And thread in your 1/8“ npt egt probe.

 

[gerg]

Fitting your exhaust is not hard for any exhaust shop to do. It's a 2.5" slip joint so welding it is very easy. Again unbolting the down pipe might make fitting this easier so I'd leave it un torqued until you figure that out. Adapting your air cleaner to turbo inlet is unique to each truck. I have elbows made up for the bj60. As well as I have hoses and fitting available to reroute the gimpy heater lines Toyota uses that follow along the top of the exhaust manifold on the bj60.

 

[gerg]

Here's all the components.