For Sale Turbocharger for 3b (1 Viewer)

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Edit. Install procedure is on page 4.
Price for updated turbo kit With 13bt manifold, modified oil drain To lifter cover and all Hardwear to mount it for 1650$ USD plus shipping which usually is close to 100$ for the continental US and Canada.




This is a feeler for a turbo I put together. Designed it to be easy to bolt up for the average guy and doesn't require removing the stock manifold. It's a wrx td04l-13t-6. Comes with oil feed and return line, charge pipe and adaptor to stock manifold and all the clamps. 2.5 inch down pipe. That makes the only welding you need to do is exhaust.


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Looks great just a little early for me, good deal also!
 
Well most folks don't want to drop a huge dollar on a turbo set up and removing your stock exhaust manifold can end up with broken bolts which can be really hard to fix. This trades some effeciency for simplicity and less cost. I also designed it so the wrx turbo doesn't require any modifications and can be bolted on as is. Very similar dimentions and specs at a Garrett 2052.
 
So since a 3b puts down such low values to the ground it's actually not hard to double it. Heavy Drive train losses on a low power engine are terrible. I saw a guy with a NA bj60 dyno at a cummins performance shop (BD) once and he showed like 37hp to the wheels. There was considerable conversation as to whether or not that was enough power to drive on the freeway. On a 90hp engine, can you produce an extra 37hp with a turbo? Quite easily actually. I don't have the calcs, but I'm guessing at 10lbs boost with fuel turned up for safe egts your probably achieving that with a clear margin. It's not double engine power, but it would feel like it.

An hz is not just a larger engine, but a better designed one to boot. If money wasn't an issue and you were simply deciding, 1hz for sure.

I'm not saying the way I designed this is the ultimate turbo set up. Quite the opposite actually. It comprimises some exhaust backpressure for simplicity, lower cost, and ease of installation. If I could fab a proper manifold in the time it took to build this I would. Not having to take and reclock the turbo is worth something to the average guy who's probably a little nervous about bashing a turbo apart. Turbos actually require signigant bashing to separate.

I was wanting to see if there was enough demand for this in order to warrant me making a jig to produce it. I was thinking of doing all the associated install components minus the turbo and let guys source their own if they chose. It's a common turbo that is a cast off cus it's considered too small for the Subie guys and they never run them long before upgrading them to larger ones. It very nice that also happens to map well to the 3b and is designed for a lot of boost, so it's internals are robust. The only cause of failure on these turbos I've found is a clogged oil bung mesh filter which starves it of oil. Rarely does the turbo give up due to normal use or even abuse.
 
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So what types of HP and torque benefits would an owner of an anemic 3B see?

I'm tempted to go turbo.

Sounds to me like you need to take a spin in the Blue Jay. 3.70 gears, 33 inch tires, a 3B with a Turbo and an H55f. Pretty much what you would have with a turbo in your 70....

Dan
 
So since a 3b puts down such low values to the ground it's actually not hard to double it. Heavy Drive train losses on a low power engine are terrible. I saw a guy with a NA bj60 dyno at a cummins performance shop (BD) once and he showed like 37hp to the wheels. There was considerable conversation as to whether or not that was enough power to drive on the freeway. On a 90hp engine, can you produce an extra 37hp with a turbo? Quite easily actually. I don't have the calcs, but I'm guessing at 10lbs boost with fuel turned up for safe egts your probably achieving that with a clear margin. It's not double engine power, but it would feel like it.

An hz is not just a larger engine, but a better designed one to boot. If money wasn't an issue and you were simply deciding, 1hz for sure.

I'm not saying the way I designed this is the ultimate turbo set up. Quite the opposite actually. It comprimises some exhaust backpressure for simplicity, lower cost, and ease of installation. If I could fab a proper manifold in the time it took to build this I would. Not having to take and reclock the turbo is worth something to the average guy who's probably a little nervous about bashing a turbo apart. Turbos actually require signigant bashing to separate.

I was wanting to see if there was enough demand for this in order to warrant me making a jig to produce it. I was thinking of doing all the associated install components minus the turbo and let guys source their own if they chose. It's a common turbo that is a cast off cus it's considered too small for the Subie guys and they never run them long before upgrading them to larger ones. It very nice that also happens to map well to the 3b and is designed for a lot of boost, so it's internals are robust. The only cause of failure on these turbos I've found is a clogged oil bung mesh filter which starves it of oil. Rarely does the turbo give up due to normal use or even abuse.


:clap:

Thank you for your time to respond to my question and I'm sorry to do that in a for sale thread. My bad.
 
So I need to sell some stuff in the garage and I'm onto building a different turbo so this things got to go.
 
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Don't these use engine coolant as well? Is it not needed for these engines?
 
Don't these use engine coolant as well? Is it not needed for these engines?

Some turbos use engine coolant through them. Personally, I don't like it. On a diesel, I am a believer that all that does is heat up the coolant, more than cool the turbo. The biggest benefit of a water cooled turbo over a strictly oil cooled turbo is that it should be less prone to coking of the oil if the turbo is shut down hot. Which is easily avoided by a little bit of idling before shutdown, IMHO.

If I have my druthers, I don't use water cooling on diesel engine turbos.

Dan
 
Water lines are strictly for extended periods of rediculously high egts, or hot shutdowns. If you do run water cooling lines you should run a restrictor on it so as to not sabotage your systems effeciency. I agree coking can be avoided by a short idle before shutdown, but for IDI engines the short idle also lets the pre cups cool too so they don't equalize to the head temperature from operating range. Having a precup rapidly cool from a 300f idle to 200f in a minute is not near as hard on them as say 800f to 200f in the same time period.

That being said, I can include the cooling banjo fittings if folks want them.
 
Turn the engine off. The precup is extremely hot while the engine is operating. That is its function. Absorb heat and shed it into the air fuel mix to speed ignition and flame front propagation. It is seated into the cylinder head with signifigant contact area compared to its overall mass. This allows it to transfer heat into the head easily and contributes in part to IDI thermal Ineffeciency. The rest of the prechamber looses the rest. During operation the head is 200f and remains that way when you shut it off. The precup however is much higher due to the combustion in the pre chamber and the air fuel mix jetting right through the center of it. The center of the precup that is. During shut off the precup will equalize to the cylinder head temp rapidly due to the simple fact that it is machined into it and it has a very small mass compared to the cylinder head. Rapidly cool a metal and you temper it. Most metals have a predictable life span for cycling. Increase the tempering and you decrease the lifespan.
 
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this it's going to be a Tech thread .. I don't want to hijack any more your thread I'll open one in the Diesel section ..
 
@gerg

Wondering: Can I still run the big classic OEM Land Cruiser oil filter (15600-41010) with this setup? I know sometimes that the bung gets in the way at the oil pan and I prefer to run the OEM oil filter as opposed to other crap.


Oh yeah, PM sent.

;)
 
So because of the turbos higher mount I've been working in an oil return that goes straight down and connects to the lifter/blowby cover. This would make the oil bung location much easier to deal with and install. Skiing at the moment, but will put some pics up next week hopefully.
g
 
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Here is a fairly messy pic of where I put my oil pan bungs. It's the large one with the hose on it closest to the oil filter. Disregard the little pipe as it was for my bypass oil filter. I Usually put the bungs to the front of the deep part of the pan in between two of the oil pan screws so you can still get to them easy. I put it about between 3/4 to an inch down from the pan gasket lip. Basically just barely enough to fit my mig tip in to weld it. I weld 45 degree bungs on and grinding the bung to match your pan profile helps in the welding otherwise you can get small gaps you have to fill. Blowing a hole in your pan is a pain to fill as its such light gauge. This leaves tons of room for exhaust placement and filter changes. I just took it laying in the motel parking lot and my wife's not impressed so forgive the quality.
 
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