swap out the fuel pump relay immediately! The high side contacts are pitted.
Turbo - Stock Fueling, etc.
- Thread starter Cruiserhead05
- Start date
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Yeah you are going to want to check that, 14.1 under full boost is not good. Its ok if its 14.1 dropping to 10-11ish but if its 14.1 all the way through the RPM band that's bad news.
If you got on it on the hwy but where only doing 1/3rd throttle there is a chance the ECU did not go into to Closed loop and was running 14+ AFR for a longer time than maybe you have in the past. That would generate a lot of combustion chamber heat and the possibility of melting a piston is high.
This has got very familar feel to another thread on here where a Safari turbo'd truck with a Unichip and was running 14-15 AFR's fortunantly he never lost a motor (miracle) but did badly crack a manifold and lost a turbo.
That was my first thought hence my post of the first page to check it.
14.1 at wide open throttle is way too lean! I'd get the wideband AFR back in there ASAP, and easy does it until you can confirm that the tune is safe.
I went back and still didn't see your reference. I'm saying the relay is working however the contacts are bad and not supplying the needed current to the pump.
Replace the relay.
I'm still new around here and new to TLCs, but I've done a fair share of turbo retrofitting on other projects so I've been highly skeptical of the comments in other threads stating the stock fuel system is fine for mild turbo applications. This doesn't sit well with me. For a N/A engine you want roughly 13:1 under load and for a forced-induction application you generally want around 12:1 under load (and some backed-off ignition timing to go with it). 14:1 is too lean for any gasoline engine under load. That' high-vacuum cruise territory and not anywhere near where you want it when your foot is down.
But I'm rooting for you to get this worked out. I love turbos.
But I'm rooting for you to get this worked out. I love turbos.
You are right I was referring to the Voltage not the current.
- Thread starter
- #28
I wasn't referring to 14.1 under load. This was over 2 years ago and having put 10K miles on it, I'm confident the AFR was good at time of install. I drove it a long time monitoring before finally removing it.
I'm still going to work on reinstalling for peace of mine.
Miscommunication!
Here is the old thread from after the turbo install. At WOT I was running 12.5 AFR
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/402117-turbo-installed-check-engine-codes-need-advice-2.html
I'm still going to work on reinstalling for peace of mine.
Miscommunication!
Here is the old thread from after the turbo install. At WOT I was running 12.5 AFR
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/402117-turbo-installed-check-engine-codes-need-advice-2.html
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- Thread starter
- #29
Went ahead and ordered this. I'm still at my desk at work so I'll ask the question here and then look around when I get home, but is this located in the underhood fuse box or under the driver's side dash?
Thanks again for the input.
Its been a wile since I cleaned the contacts on mine but if I remember correctly its in the Driver side fender. You can access it, its just under the hood strut attachment point.
* What type of spark plugs are you running? If you are running copper plugs switch to a good iridium plug like an IK22 or so. Copper plugs foul out sooner and need to be changed every 1000-2000 miles (sometimes sooner) on boosted applications.
* Upgrade to a Walbro 255LPH fuel pump or a Supra twin turbo fuel pump if you haven't already.
* Check all of your piping, couplers, clamps and fasteners from the MAF to the turbo, from the turbo to the intercooler, and the intercooler to the throttle body. Make sure there are no vacuum or boost leaks.
* Check all your vacuum lines and make sure none are leaking, popped off, etc...
* How are your valve cover breather hoses connected, where are they connecting to? Pics would help explain this quickly if you can post a few.
* Are you running a modified MAF or a 100% factory MAF?
* Have you checked your base ignition timing with a timing light to confirm that it is at OEM specs? If not, do this now.
* What octane fuel are you running? If you're boosted you should be running 91-94 octane.
* Have you checked for engine codes? If so, which codes (if any) are you getting?
* Upgrade to a Walbro 255LPH fuel pump or a Supra twin turbo fuel pump if you haven't already.
* Check all of your piping, couplers, clamps and fasteners from the MAF to the turbo, from the turbo to the intercooler, and the intercooler to the throttle body. Make sure there are no vacuum or boost leaks.
* Check all your vacuum lines and make sure none are leaking, popped off, etc...
* How are your valve cover breather hoses connected, where are they connecting to? Pics would help explain this quickly if you can post a few.
* Are you running a modified MAF or a 100% factory MAF?
* Have you checked your base ignition timing with a timing light to confirm that it is at OEM specs? If not, do this now.
* What octane fuel are you running? If you're boosted you should be running 91-94 octane.
* Have you checked for engine codes? If so, which codes (if any) are you getting?
- Thread starter
- #32
- Thread starter
- #33
Pic
The relay contacts usually fail on the low side and the cleaning I described years ago was for that. However just the other day a club member contacted me with a problem where the engine would cut out and stumble at RPMs above 2100. I suggested the same fix as here and the truck is now running properly.
What Rick is describing could very well be the problem.
- Thread starter
- #36
You were correct, I found it. Don't have the backup yet so was hesitate to try and pull it apart to inspect.
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I'm just glad you haven't sold it!
I did the Supra pump & it just involves changing the wire ends to fit onto the posts of the fuel pump and modifying the bracket that holds the pump to the bracket (or using a SS hose clamp).
I'm curious about the big Bosch pump the Aussie used on his build.
On a related side note, does anyone have recommendations for an electronic/digital "all-in-one" gauge that will handle AFR, boost, EGT?
I did the Supra pump & it just involves changing the wire ends to fit onto the posts of the fuel pump and modifying the bracket that holds the pump to the bracket (or using a SS hose clamp).
I'm curious about the big Bosch pump the Aussie used on his build.
On a related side note, does anyone have recommendations for an electronic/digital "all-in-one" gauge that will handle AFR, boost, EGT?
PLX has a a nice lineup of multi-input and multi-output gauges.
- Thread starter
- #39
Good news, fuel pump relay finally came.
Bad news, what they said was the plug and play replacement isn't even close. Probably going to call Dan at this point, and get the oe unit.
