Turbo is in!

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And there's an awful lot of choices out there when it comes to parts. When I decided to do this project I bought the turbonetics manifold, I happened to score it off Ebay for $375 to my door. I bought it in March 2012.
Using it required two things,

1) you have to grind out a passage way (someone correct me if I'm wrong here) for the EGR port.

2) its flat flange style will not allow you to use the OEM style gasket because of the rivets that come between ports on the gasket. My solution was to buy a sheet of FELPRO gasket material ($30?), I punched a few holes in the gasket to bolt it to the manifold while on the workbench. Once I had it secured to the manifold on the ends and in the middle I used a rotozip cutout tool and ran it around all of the ports and the other holes and then around the outside of the flange. When done, I had one completely burned up bit and a perfectly cut gasket. Cleaned up the edges a little and blew out the manifold and installed it. The turbonetics manifold does have a cut in the flange in the middle for expansion and I did cut the gasket to match.

I should note this as well, the oil drain is very tight because the turbo is mounted above the manifold. There is not a lot of space to come out and then avoid the flange of the turbo. I ended up using a metal drain pipe that actually came off a turbo for my old gen 1 talon. I had to cut the pipe at the flange to reorient the direction it came off, I welded it back to the flange and installed it.



The thing I like the most about this manifold is that it allowed me to use a 45 and a 90 degree silicone fitting and duct the intake from the stock air cleaner very cleanly into the turbo
 
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Have not seen anything in forever on Landtanks turbo manifold, was that project dropped?
 
38mm wastegate JDM (Ebay) $ 108.00

this is what I bought but I DON'T recommend it. I also had to put a smaller (weaker) spring in it because it was developing boost well over 10 psi. http://www.ebay.com/itm/38MM-JDM-8P...Parts_Accessories&hash=item484ec4b89c&vxp=mtr

I recommend you buy a decent one like Tial or something 38mm. it should have a 5 psi or smaller spring. I put a five psi spring in mine. I know a lot about air operated valves and actually rebuilt and modified mine because it leaked like hell when it was taken out of the box.

If I were to replace my wastegate it would be with this Tial 38mm 0.3 bar $300.00
http://www.amazon.com/TiAL-Wastegate-38mm-Black-F38-3BK/dp/B00MXBMLKQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1418960633&sr=1-2&keywords=38mm wastegate .3 bar

Flexible wastegate piping kit (Ebay) $67.98

(I'll be adding the shortcuts to all these later)
 
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3" v band downpipe with sensor ports (guess... yup ebay) $89.00

I also purchased ten feet of 3" flexible stainless exhaust (used about 2.5 ft) $105.00 from Summit

Needed to get a weldable v-band flange too and some clamps
 
BOV came off ebay as well.
This was tricky not knowing what I'd get and wanting to make sure it worked properly and was set properly so I built a test rig at work and was able to adjust it to 9-10 psi prior to putting it in.
 
BOV came off ebay as well.
This was tricky not knowing what I'd get and wanting to make sure it worked properly and was set properly so I built a test rig at work and was able to adjust it to 9-10 psi prior to putting it in.

Why not go without a BOV?
 
Boost controller was free to me as it was on the shelf, leftovers from a previous vehicle but they sell for anywhere from $50 to $300 and up. I'd look into the matching AEM boost gauge and controller $277.00
http://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-4350-Tru-Boost-Controller-Gauge/dp/B001DX9KDG/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1418931863&sr=1-1&keywords=electronic boost controller

It covers you're controller and boost gauge all in one.

I happened to get my boost gauge for one dollar plus $10 shipping off a guy on Ebay who thought it was no good. the needle pointed to 5 psi with no pressure. I took it apart and pulled the needle and put it back on at zero and then checked its calibration with a standard. (I calibrate stuff for a living)
 
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Cant believe I never had the pleasure of seeing this cruiser or getting a ride in it. Awesome build. Hope it goes to someone local.

If you know anybody who's interested in it I would hate to sell it but really should. I have too many vehicles...:crybaby:

I have a 66 mustang that has asked Santa for a paxton supercharger...
 
I'm curious how much the turbo cost you, spec'd out the way it was.
 
Thank You Mr. Mtncruiser97 for taking the time to post up and share, and also for all the pricing and sourcing info. much appreciated! Wondering what you gave for the Turbo as well......
 
Ah yes, the turbo... I am embarrassed to admit that it came from eBay as well. However, I am astonished to say it is outliving all expectations I had for it. I spent a whole $301 bucks on it! LOL

My original plan was to use the turbo (if it worked) until it failed, fully expecting that it would've been by now. I posted earlier (I believe the second post) that I had put 3000 miles on it. I was way off, I put the turbo in at 189,000 miles, I am now at 196,500. That's over 7,000 miles and almost a year later (11 months). Keep in mind I pulled a boat 1050 miles from Vermont to South Carolina down and up interstate 81 (which is not flat).

Now my reasoning for using the parts I did was simple, I wanted to install the 'system'. I had to get the infrastructure installed, THEN if I found that these parts were not functioning properly I could simply swap them out with the higher quality ones. I fully expected that I'd be dropping a ton of money on a high quality turbo by now but I haven't. In fact for the money I have saved and the experience that I have had, I could buy another one each year or two and keep doing that for a while. What's a turbo anyway? It's and air pump, it has bearings and seals and different trims for different gains.

I am not sure if I got lucky picking a turbo or if it may be the fact that in this application that turbo is not getting over worked making it last this long? I take care of the vehicle, I don't necessarily drive slow but I'm not beating the crap out of it either. It has been the most pleasurable driving vehicle now that it has power and for those of you who want to put a turbo in, like I once did, I have two words.... DO IT! or buy mine!

A few of the things that I didn't skimp on were the wide band gauge, manifold, the water pump and the shift kit. I can't stress enough... protect your engine and get the damn gauge!

this looks like the same exact turbo from a different seller (mine was purchased from relentless_performance in April 2012)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GT3582R-Tur...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4619bbdc5a&vxp=mtr

I am sorry to pull the rug out from under some by building what is basically a DIY kit for not a lot of money. I will gladly meet anyone locally who wants to see how this performs. I don't think the videos lie either.

$$$ Has anyone been adding it up yet?
 
Why not go without a BOV?
+1

I am BOV-less on my MR2 at 362whp/345tq.
Oh haha Ok that's where out discrepancy is. When you said GT35 ball bearing, water and oil cooled I assumed you meant a Garrett, and their ball bearing turbo's would be close to $2k for the turbo alone.
Heh yeah, around $1600. I have a Garrett GT3071 in my car though and I have to say the difference in spool between that and a journal bearing TD05 20G was just ridiculous.

TD05 20G
GT3071
That's on 2 liters, not 4.5, but note the power difference and spool difference between a cheap turbo and a quality turbo (both top runs were at 21psi, one on race gas and one on E85). I do not have any experience with eBay ball bearing turbos, though - if they're legit ball bearing setups, I might try one someday for giggles. :)
 
I would agree that a Garrett would be awesome but I would also have to deal with that quicker spooling and a stock computer trying to keep up with AFR's which could actually hurt me on my setup.
I already have to be careful if I punch it because that boost will come fast and I am watching the AFR's go lean for a second until the computer goes open loop.
 

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