Due entirely to a severe attack of boredom, I am searching for a 50+VDC 5A benchtop power supply. Regardless of how much I search, there seems to be nothing that doesn't come from China with 191 5-star Amazon reviews, that every negative reviewer says didn't work out of the box, or died after four months' use. I''m not doing NASA work, but I don't want something that has better than a 50/50 chance of cooking whatever it is I'm working on.
I'm interested in actual experience with something I can buy now. I'd really love something solid from the 70s, but I just don't have the patience to go Easter egg hunting for something this simple.
Thoughts?
EDIT: I posted 50+V not because I know I need it, but both because I felt it would give me a little more flexibility and better build quality than 30V models. I can't think of a use for multiple output/programmable/memory options, but I wouldn't rule out a model based on it having those features.
Oh, and the budget should be south of $200. I know I can get quality if I want to pay $400 or more. I just don't have the use for that kind of tool.
Not 50V but there are currently a few power designs 4050 on ebay (40V, 5A), I have had several of their supplies over the years and found them to be of pretty high quality.
Great crimp connections start with knowing where the seam is (unless it’s not seamed) and using a proper crimping pliers the correct way, assuming one starts with the right size connector for the wire(s). Most people just don’t do that making it hit or miss.
Then there’s the mistake we’ve all made, and will continue to make, where we forget to put the heat shrink on the wire before making the crimp, then just covering it with whatever cheap electrical tape we have because there’s probably not enough wire left to cut it off and install a new connector…then we forget about it and the tape melts off or crumbles away leaving us with an exposed chunk of bare conductor that either shorts out or just rots away over time. Yeah, I’m talking about everybody!
My thought was these would be best for in-harness repair. There are several splices within the various harnesses, especially the engine harness, that could use these, if repairs were necessary. The OEM splices are similar.
Amazon product ASIN B091GJ7Q3Z
This is what I've switched to. Same type of crimp as Delphi GT / WeatherPack type of pins. That and a piece of adhesive lined heat shrink.
I worked for a Motorola service shop in the early '90's... we installed two-way radios and lights in police cars, firetrucks and ambulances.
I was taught to use non-insulated splices and a trusty pair of Thomas and Betts crimper
Thomas & Betts WT111M Plier Type Crimping Tool with Cutter for A, B, C and PT Non Insulated Terminals and Splices https://a.co/d/0XaG4g0
Non-insulated butt connectors with brazed barrel available in different sizes. Non-insulated are best suited when special performance or installation characteristics are not needed.
m.delcity.net
We used heat-shrink tubing and/or 3M Scotch 33 electrical tape.
When I need noninsulated splices (which is the only time I use butt splices), I never have time to wait for them, and the parts stores never have them. I use gold plated insulated butt connectors, and strip the plastic off them; and do exactly what @Pick said, I cover them with shrink tube and tape them.
I used to use a Motorola R2600 to tune combiners/diplexers, adjust modulation on analog radios and most importantly, listen in on the early cellular conversations... very cool tool! So sad everything is disposable nowadays
Maybe nothing to great…..But me and a gig saws do not get along to good. Can’t follow a straight line or even worse a curve. Well enter the “D” band saw.
Mr. Dewalt to the rescue.
Making 16 templates for cap stones to finish off the new wall.
Make do with what you have.
