TTT -- The Tool Thread

[gasman4u]

coming back around to this.

any good crimped connection recommendations?
are the cheap connectors on amazon just as good, or is there a nicer brand one could use?

check out Posi-taps if they'll work with your application. I have had great success using them on other projects and still have the huge box of them for future projects.

EDIT: Posi-Tap- No Crimp Tap - https://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html

If you can get past the (as the kids say) "janky" website, their products are top notch imho

 

[GLTHFJ60]

check out Posi-taps if they'll work with your application. I have had great success using them on other projects and still have the huge box of them for future projects.

EDIT: Posi-Tap- No Crimp Tap - https://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html

If you can get past the (as the kids say) "janky" website, their products are top notch imho

That's a fancy scotch lock. I recommend people stay away from any style of vampire tap connector like those and scotch locks.

 

[gasman4u]

That's a fancy scotch lock. I recommend people stay away from any style of vampire tap connector like those and scotch locks.

I had to look up what a scotch lock was, but it looks like a different mechanism. I haven’t used the scotch lock and drop its, but can say these in line connectors have held tighter than some of the soldering jobs I’ve seen.

 

[JohnVee]

That's a fancy scotch lock. I recommend people stay away from any style of vampire tap connector like those and scotch locks.

I've actually heard this particular brand be spoken favorably of by people who know what they're talking about but I haven't ever used them myself. Seems like a lot of weight and perpendicular torsion to have on a cable that most people probably won't be securing. I'll buy some one day and see what happens.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

T-splices should be done like this video shows, then solder the joint imo.




Toyota uses a Crimp ferrule instead of weaving the intersecting wire through which also works effectively.

 

[Malleus]

aka "vampire taps"; a favorite of "professional' stereo installers.

Hate 'em with a passion. Of course, that's just my personal opinion.

 

[gasman4u]

T-splices should be done like this video shows, then solder the joint imo.




Toyota uses a Crimp ferrule instead of weaving the intersecting wire through which also works effectively.

Crimp ferrule connectors look interesting. How do you connect them?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Crimp ferrule connectors look interesting. How do you connect them?

I don't know if you can buy them commercially. In the rare occasion I need to do a mid wire splice, I always use the weave method.

Basically strip a section in the middle of the wire you want to splice into. Open a Crimp barrel and put it over the orig stripped wire, then slide in your splice wire. Crimp it down, then insulate over top. No vampire taps allowed anywhere.

Toyota uses a piece of brass to do this in factory harnesses.

 

[Malleus]

Ballenger, for the win. My one stop shop for everything OEM electrical on Land Cruisers. Including OEM harness connectors

 

[lt1fire]

Subaru life lolz

 

[mtweller]

Subaru life lolz

View attachment 3197006

Not that it would have helped you Yeti, but if anyone local to NC needs a leak down I have one too.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Working on low cars is a pain in the ass without a lift. Almost bought some wheel cribs from race ramps to make it easier, but their lead time is a month.

Found a diy video making them out of wood. Duh. Had a ton of scrap wood from a recent project, so I knocked these together. Works great. Sized them to make the car level with one end supported on jack stands.

These make a world of difference. Very, very stable.

 

[Pick]

Working on low cars is a pain in the ass without a lift. Almost bought some wheel cribs from race ramps to make it easier, but their lead time is a month.

Found a diy video making them out of wood. Duh. Had a ton of scrap wood from a recent project, so I knocked these together. Works great. Sized them to make the car level with one end supported on jack stands.

These make a world of difference. Very, very stable.

View attachment 3226814

View attachment 3226815

Love a simple, low-cost solution!! Nice work...

Hope you'll share progress on the repair, sounds like a great way to get into an(other) expensive hobby

 

[Green Hell Mustang]

Working on low cars is a pain in the ass without a lift. Almost bought some wheel cribs from race ramps to make it easier, but their lead time is a month.

Found a diy video making them out of wood. Duh. Had a ton of scrap wood from a recent project, so I knocked these together. Works great. Sized them to make the car level with one end supported on jack stands.

These make a world of difference. Very, very stable.

View attachment 3226814

View attachment 3226815

Forbidden Jenga

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Hope you'll share progress on the repair, sounds like a great way to get into an(other) expensive hobby

Lucky is fixed, finished up today. Built the wheel cribs last week. Didn't think to post them up as a tool till today.

Forbidden Jenga

For the record it is screwed together, lol

 

[mudgudgeon]

Ballenger, for the win. My one stop shop for everything OEM electrical on Land Cruisers. Including OEM harness connectors
View attachment 3193421

Got any tips on searching there site?
They don't seem to specifically cater for Landcruiser? Or 1fzfe?

 

[Malleus]

If you know the Toyota part number for the connector housing, you can use just the last five digits - you can find it by using the search tool on their site. If they have it, it'll pop up. However, there are kits they have assembled which have not only the connector housings, but also the terminals and seals, which the search will not find, because they are not listed by the housing part number, but the kit number. Oddly enough, if you find the kits, all the separate parts are listed as "related". Go figure.

The terminals are a horse of a different color. I found what I need by matching the Reapir Manual specs against their terminal specs. There are no Toyota part numbers that I'm aware of for the terminals.

The staff are really good about answering emails and phone calls and can find things that don't show up on the site, if they have them, or can get them.

The only connector housing I've asked them for, which they could not find, was the engine harness-side connector for the A/C cutoff switch, in the head. They told me Sumitomo says it's NLA. I did find that Toyota used it on all the 6 cylinders in the 90s, so that may be an option. I haven't pursued it, because I found seals which would fit mine and jammed it back in place (the latch on mine is FUBAR). I'm waiting for it to fail so I can fix it properly.

 

[mudgudgeon]

If you know the Toyota part number for the connector housing, you can use just the last five digits - you can find it by using the search tool on their site. If they have it, it'll pop up. However, there are kits they have assembled which have not only the connector housings, but also the terminals and seals, which the search will not find, because they are not listed by the housing part number, but the kit number. Oddly enough, if you find the kits, all the separate parts are listed as "related". Go figure.

The terminals are a horse of a different color. I found what I need by matching the Reapir Manual specs against their terminal specs. There are no Toyota part numbers that I'm aware of for the terminals.

The staff are really good about answering emails and phone calls and can find things that don't show up on the site, if they have them, or can get them.

The only connector housing I've asked them for, which they could not find, was the engine harness-side connector for the A/C cutoff switch, in the head. They told me Sumitomo says it's NLA. I did find that Toyota used it on all the 6 cylinders in the 90s, so that may be an option. I haven't pursued it, because I found seals which would fit mine and jammed it back in place (the latch on mine is FUBAR). I'm waiting for it to fail so I can fix it properly.

Awesome, great tips.

I was putting in the full 10 digit Toyota number and striking out.

 

[mudgudgeon]

@Malleus thanks for the hook up with Ballenger MS. they had almost all the connectors I needed, about 4 short.

 

[Malleus]

@Malleus thanks for the hook up with Ballenger MS. they had almost all the connectors I needed, about 4 short.

Were the missing connector housings not available from Toyota? The main reason I don't buy them there is that Toyota only sells bare housings; I can get housings, terminals and seals from Ballenger, most times without having to hunt for them. And, AFAIK, Toyota doesn't sell terminals or seals.