I can not get off my caliber bolts to change my pads! What do I need to do? I even took it to Advance Auto and they could not get them off either! I did the "hitting the ratchet with a hammer thing" and broke a ratchet! I sprayed WD-40 on it. Please HELP! I need to get these bolts off! Me and Advance Auto rounded one of the bolts already. I also have limited funds...Any suggestions??? I have a 1996 Landcruiser..
are you in the Northern VA area ??? if so , i may be able to direct you to the mechanic that works on my 93 LC, he works at Miller Toyota in Manassas....
Man, what you need to do is go take a break. Have a beer or a coke. Whatever. Get your mind off of it for a minute or two. You're in too deep at this point.
Once you get a breather you need to look at your options. Do you have air tools?
If not, you NEED to make an apointment with a mechanic. Anything you do to try to remove a rounded off frozen in place bolt will end up either snapping the head off of the bolt, or making you more angry.
An Impact driver might do it, but would be hard to get behind there at times.
DO NOT just keep reefin' on the bolt. If you snap that head off you're in worse trouble than you are in right now.
Keep in mind WD-4O is not a penetrating lubricant. You should use something like PB-Blaster when trying to remove any undercarrage bolts. I'm not sure how much that would help on a caliper bolt, but it wouldn't hurt to try. Usually you want to do this a couple of times a few days before the procedure, to let it soak in.
or kroil if you can find it.
wd 40 is chit, worthless except to clean grease off your hands. pb blaster is cheap and readily available. I like kroil but I ahve heard toyopeen is good stuff as well.
biggest thing is to listen to doc, walk away form it for a few hours, then come back.
Dave
Rest while PB Blaster soaks in. A lot of machinists swear by Kroil, I dunno. Whacking straight in on the head can sometimes loosen the threads a bit, dislodge some rust. You have to get a grip on that bolt and a lot of leverage on that grip. If you can still get a 6-point socket on it, put a big wrench on that. My 3/4" and 1" drive wrenches are amazing for getting things unstuck, much better than a wobbly pipe on a 1/2" drive. Cranking hard on a short handle puts a lot of bending force on the fastener head. I rarely get out my impact wrench for stuck fasteners, it usually beats up the fastener head, potentially compounding the problem. If you can't get a socket on it, try a stud remover type socket, it's sort of got jaws that tighten as torque is applied, for headless bolts. Sort of like a pipe wrench. You could also cut a slot in the bolt and go at it with a straight-slot on a socket or impact tool. The straight-slot socket is called a drag-link. Most welders can weld a head of some sort on the remnants of the bolt head, without heating the whole assembly much. Good luck!
For fasteners that are getting beat up, I'll go purchase a 6 point socket. Then I use a regular breaker bar, but with a twist. Try using a jack or similar way to put pressure on the breaker bar at the socket so it's being forced onto the fastener and cannot ride up and pop off. You might be able to lever the Cruiser's jack in there with a friend holding it and pressing against the inner fender protected by a block of wood, etc. Of course, a day of PB Blaster in advance. Then, all you want to do is hear the thing pop loose - don't keep turning with pressure on it after that as obviously you might be making it tougher to back off the fastener. Just the pop loose is all you want before normally removing it.