Trunion Preload Check/set Without Knuckle Teardown (1 Viewer)

[Slomo]

I have been searching for the answer to this but to no avail, so I am hoping someone has addressed this.
Has anybody addressed the issue of checking the preload without having the axle torn down. I would like to check it with just the steering linkage and caliper removed from the knuckle, tire/wheel also obviously. I have the FSM preload and it even mentions that it should be done prior to knuckle ball gaskets/felt etc being put on. Does anyone know of a safe amount of preload to add to the FSM measurements to account for the extra resistance of a fully assembled knuckle?
I recognize there is a pretty big range in the FSM, but I am rather OCD and very anal retentive.

Cheers

 

[Pin_Head]

It doesn't make much sense to adjust the preload without installing new bearings and it can be a bad idea if they are worn, so you need to check them anyway. You can reasonably assume that the preload was good when the bearings were new and the reason it may be out of spec is because they are work. They wear with characteristic grooves in the races, so tightening worn bearings may make it hard to steer.

 

[Slomo]

I did a full knuckle/birf rebuild about 10k ago with new everything from cdan. The 80 drives fine and doesn't have any issues, I am just going to go over it this weekend and do a lube and torque check on everthing and wanted to do a recheck/reset on the preload for trunion bearings since all new went in. I am wondering if anyone has measured initial trunion preload vs trunion preload with the knuckles complete minus steering linkage and caliper so the brake line doesn't affect the reading. Ie is there a general rule of thumb someone could use to do a less invasive preload check and still be within OE spec since the range is approx 4.5 lb/ft.
I recognize I am probably over analyzing it but since when have Mudders in the 80 section been satisfied with less than perfect.