Builds Troopie build (1 Viewer)

[crushers]

now for the part, taking the decade old tires off the split rims and installing the new tires, liners and tubes.
remove damaged tire
remove valve stem using a valve stem valve remover.
go make a coffee and relax, it takes about 20 mins to half hour for all the air to leak out to the point you can actually proceed to the next step.

 

[crushers]

there are a couple ways to break a bead, a high lift jack which if you are by yourself with a flat is the only way to accomplish it ... to my knowledge.
the other is to have a buddy drive over the tire forcing it to pop off the bead. now, neither one is overly effect and deffinately not easy on tires that have been mounted for ages.
we struggled for 1/2 an hour to break the first one loose. driving over broke the rear bead and the front was a combination of driving and high lift jack. once the bead was broken then life became MUCH easier.


the rest we took to the local tire shop to have them break the beads. then we brought them back home to remove the ring and dismount.

 

[crushers]

if you are remounting the same tire back on then mark the location of the valve stem onto the tire as well as the weights that will fall off. this will make the reinstalled tire ride the same as it always has...

first you need a couple pry bars
now that the valve is removed and the bead is broken you are ready to proceed on removing the ring.
you need to push DOWN on the ring as shown, this will release the lip. on the Toyota splits there is about a 4 degree bevel up to 'lock' the ring in place so you need to go down and out away from the rim itself.
once down you will see the reciever slot that is cut into the side of the ring. you stick the second pry bar into this slot and pry up lifting the ring lip past the edge of the rim. keep this ring location fixed as you move the first prybar under the bottom of the ring inner lip and pry up as well.

 

[crushers]

now when you are sure the ring is stabilized by the first pry bar then slide the second pry bar under the bottom of the inner side of the ring and pry up.
hold and move the first one to the next pry section.

DO NOT rush, i have dismounted dozens of these splits now with no issue but if you rush you can pinch a finger, lose a finger, have the ring bust, puncture the tube or who knows what else. SO BE CAREFUL.

 

[crushers]

once the ring is completely removed then lift the tire away from the rim. do this with the valve stem as the last location to move away from the rim, this allows you to get your hands on the valve stem without damaging it.
push the valve stem down and out of the slot. move rim out of the way.
remove the liner and tube together.
remove the liner from the tube
patch the tube.

 

[crushers]

reinsert mended tube
reinflate the tube till it is bloated somewhat.
reinsert the liner making sure it is folded over the tube and snuggly inside the tire.
reinstall the rim.

 

[crushers]

reinstalling the ring is easy.
lay tire and rim flat
insert the one end of the ring under the lip.
stand on that end to keep it under and start workign the ring in and under around the rim.
a stomp with the heel of your shoe works wonders.
it just snaps into place.
take a close look to make sure both ends and the entire ring is under the lip.
done with the ring.

 

[crushers]

now add air
keep an eye on the ring to make sure it NEVER moves away from the rim.
the tire will slowly seat itself.
once seated then fill to desired pressure.

done.

 

[lshobie]

Wayne, now that it is up to pressure what is the diameter of the tire - is it a true 36? 35.5? And how wide treadwall to treadwall?

Thanks - looks good - and good explanation for the split rim owners.

 

[crushers]

the new tires in comparrison to what came on the troopy from Oz.
the rated height is 36.4" but in reality at 35 psi they are 'only' 35 1/2" tall. if filled to max pressure then i could see another inch in overall inflation height.

 

[crushers]

we installed the lift springs today to test the clearence of the rear of the front tire to the rear of the front fender opening.
at first i felt we needed to modify the spring to clear the tire as it turns but it seems all is well since this is a narrow tire.
of course once the engine and armor goes back on there will be at least a 1.5" compression of the springs.

even empty the rear springs flex nicely.

 

[Malahki]

now add air
keep an eye on the ring to make sure it NEVER moves away from the rim.
the tire will slowly seat itself.
once seated then fill to desired pressure.

done.

You should be using a tire cage or at very least a chain looped through the rim whenever seating the bead on a split rim.

 

[crushers]

if you are unsure or nervous or a careless individual then DO NOT RUN SPLITS on your trucks.
it really is that simple.

have you examined a toyota splits? they are different from the NA counterparts with the bevel at the edge that forces the ring into the rim. the more pressure applied the more the ring moves inward and not out. add to that the length of the inner sidewall of the ring that the tire pushes against as it seats.

of course care and attention, as i warned, MUST be executed during removal and installation.

seriously, what is the use of having a split rim if you can not remove and repair and replace in the field?

when i asked in calgary at a couple different shops i purchased tires from for my splits about the stories their response was "inattentive drones working the floor".

 

[Malahki]

Fair enough, I have never seen the Toyota splits and only have experience with the older commercial Dayton style splits.

 

[crushers]

fair enough,
to be honest i had heard the stories about the danger of splits and even chucked out my first really nice set of Toyota splits. then a few years later i was chatting with another cruiser owner about his splits and he went on and on about how he had 2 flats on a run somewhere. the story he told with the emotion and hands going everywhere made me decide i had to give it a try.
back then we didn't have internet or even a club to share ideas, if you wanted to do something then you went ahead and tried. so i did. the feeling of success and freedom is over whelming.
that is when i chatted with some old school tire guys and they confirmed there had been a couple accidents where guys had been injured somewhere. it seems negligence was the culprit but the decision was made in the tire world that a cage was required and then basicly the tire world basicly banned the splits altogether.
the story i heard, true or not i am not sure but it sounded right.

decades later and i still have a fascination with the Toyota factory split rim. when you look at Oz, Africa, countries where miles and days can be expected in the remote areas, the split rim is the rims used. it just brings a feeling of ruggedness, survivoritis, independence ... and shall i say ... a cool factor to a build.

i would never try and talk someone into splits that was uncomfortable and splits are not for everyone. the split rim is heavy.
the split rim is frowned in the tire world so finding a shop to do your work can be difficult if not impossible.
the split rim requires a liner and a tube
the split rim is a bit harder to balance
the split rim could be dangerous in the wrong hands (i supose)

i know my helper was nervous but intreguied with split rims. after watching and learning he did the other 5 rims himself (with supervision) and he had a bit of a proud glow after he was done.

i like the look and feel they are good addition to this build for the reason of what the owner is desiring, the ability to go into places that are off the beaten path. a jack all, a valve remover, 2 pry bars and a tube and tube patch kit and a source of air to reinflate and you are golden.

your words are wise and if there is a cage or if you can use a chain then why not use it. at the same time, if you are careful, don't shy away from the splits. after all 2 million Aussies can't be all wrong.

 

[ForealBoreal]

I've always like split rims. The idea behind them is great. Wayne toss a bit of talcum powder in there to help the tube avoid getting abrasion.

 

[crushers]

i have heard of this in the past but never tried it.

is this for remounting used tubes or for new? i noticed the new tubes have a 'powder' already on them.

i have to dismantle these again anyway, are you suggesting i use some talcum powder on the reinstall?

 

[61Mk+]

.....

 

[crushers]

what we can do is install the stock springs back on and sell the lift.
this will remove 2+ inches from the height. the stock springs are in excellent shape.
so, once we get everything done and reinstalled we will install with the stock ones then you make the call one way or the other.
yes, it is tall.

 

[Deny]

Don't lower it, it looks perfect at that height. Once you add on all the accessories, and all the supplies it will drop some, then driving it for a few months with the heavy stuff on it will drop the suspension a bit as well. If you go down 2 inches then let it settle I would think after a year you may have tire rubbing issues with those larger tires.
My 2 cents, course if it were my truck I would go higher!