Troll Hole woes

65swb45

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The Trollhole carb is a clone of the world market 61012 Aisan carb used from 81-87. Any kit for an FJ60 will work.

Dirt is dirt.

If you left me a voicemail regarding a stock replacement and I didn’t reply, it is because I have nothing to offer you at this time. I am currently reevaluating all my remaining inventory of carburetors for that particular vintage.

Note: I am done answering tech. The lack of reciprocity has been disappointing for a long time. The fact that people can't even be bothered to hit the like button any more is terminal.
 
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ToyotaMatt

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I have a troll hole carb on a '70 fj40. Some days it works great someday it is CRAP! I have had this carb for a few years and only recently really tried to get it run correctly. I tuned it as well as I could without a tach. Thought I had it running good but still went to a carb guy to see what he thought. He said I was pretty close. I got it from him and was very happy with the way it ran. I left it out over night and the next morning after wiping the dew off I started the fj up and it was horrible. I had to have the choke all the way out to get it to run. It was revving so high it was embarrassing. Thought crap and parked it. I started next day and it was purring like a kitten. I have reached out to a couple of guys to see if they could get me a rebuild carb to replace the temperamental troll hole carb. I haven't heard back from them. The one fellow from Ohio asked how I got a troll Hole carb on my f engine. I did and it seems to work. Used a cable throttle and an air filter kit from a flaps store. Here are some pics. I think I would like a rebuilt carb for it but haven't found a source. Anybody out there? Thanks,
Buck View attachment 3107005View attachment 3107006View attachment 3107011


without a shadow of ANY doubt whatsoever , this below image you posted :


- the
liquid fluid contents of that glass casing fuel filter are your #1 issue and problem to contend with , and most likely 100% cause of your described symptoms in
your #1 thread post here



- i actually have no idea of the total fuel system damage that has occurred , but i can say for certain a
NEW OEM Mechanical fuel pump and rebuilding the carburetor are in order , not to mention removal and flushing on this plastic fuel tank on the layers of sludge you will be finding inside ...


this is straight talk you need to hear , just do it correctly the first time , everything , and you will not have to approach this a 2nd or 3rd time ,


take the easy path to the dark side , and only rebuild the carb for example and you will become very frustrated and sad , and nobody wants this to happen ....:confused:



matt :)



1662532704017.png
 
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Matt speaks the truth.

My 40 insurance ran out just before the COVID lockdown and everyone lost their minds. Long story short, it sat for two years. I tried to half-ass the solution when I was having similar problems, but it wasn't till I drained the fresh gas out of both tanks, cleaned the marmalade out of the carb bowls, and blew carb cleaner and air through the carb passages that I got it to work right. Now it purrs like a happy kitten.

If I'm starting it cold (first time for the day) I pump the gas, and the automatic choke takes care of the rest (I hate them, but it's working well so I'm leaving it alone). When I come out to restart it, I simply bum the key and it flashes back to life... it'll idle at 500 rpm for a couple of minutes, and then back to normal once I'm driving. low end and off idle torque is great and all is good with the world.
 

jbee

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Matt speaks the truth.

My 40 insurance ran out just before the COVID lockdown and everyone lost their minds. Long story short, it sat for two years. I tried to half-ass the solution when I was having similar problems, but it wasn't till I drained the fresh gas out of both tanks, cleaned the marmalade out of the carb bowls, and blew carb cleaner and air through the carb passages that I got it to work right. Now it purrs like a happy kitten.

If I'm starting it cold (first time for the day) I pump the gas, and the automatic choke takes care of the rest (I hate them, but it's working well so I'm leaving it alone). When I come out to restart it, I simply bum the key and it flashes back to life... it'll idle at 500 rpm for a couple of minutes, and then back to normal once I'm driving. low end and off idle torque is great and all is good with the world.
I’ve had the exact same experience. A little cold blood at cold start but after that will start on a quick turn of the key. By the way, while you’re in the middle of this find yourself the gear reduction starter from a 1985 FJ60, look on your local craigslist or OfferUp for Facebook marketplace should be able to find one for 50 bucks it makes a huge difference in cranking the engine.
 
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I have a new question about my troll hole carb. I did buy a rebuild kit for my carb but I am wondering if I could take the part of the troll hole carb that is made for the throttle cable and attach it to a 2f carburetor that is made for a throttle linkage?
Thanks,
Buck
 
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I’m prepared to help you out here. Send that old junky troll hole carb to me. I will take it off your hands and you can put on the 2 F carb you have.
 

YODA 88 62

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The fuel hose looks older and swollen. Good chance the ethanol has eaten the inside of the hoses and particles past the fuel filter have gotten in the carb along with some sludge. Time for a full system refresh with fuel hose rated for ethanol. Should be an easy fix. Or go crazy and put a sniper EFI kit!!!
 

ToyotaMatt

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I bought the troll hole carb years ago 5-10 yrs ago. Installed right away but didn't do much after that. It probably didn't work right out of the box and I let it sit. It has been sitting 5-10 years in my garage (heated).
As for the blue light special crimp, it does give 12v when keyed on. Off when key is turned off.
Here is pic of fuel filter.
The distributor is a vac advance model. I have a voltage resistor on fire wall. Hope this helps. Buck

View attachment 3107568

View attachment 3107569



Yes, a troll hole carb is a version of the fj40 carburetor. Look at the photos, pick yours, then find the kit and order it.

Then take the kit to a carb rebuilder and pay them the money to rebuild it.

Or watch the @pinhead videos on youtube and rebuild yourself. (I've tried this and failed; hired a professional and it worked.)
So it's been sitting for 5 to 10 years with gas in it. So how long do you think it takes gas to turn to lacquer and start blocking internal passages?

The Trollhole carb is a clone of the world market 61012 Aisan carb used from 81-87. Any kit for an FJ60 will work.

Dirt is dirt.

If you left me a voicemail regarding a stock replacement and I didn’t reply, it is because I have nothing to offer you at this time. I am currently reevaluating all my remaining inventory of carburetors for that particular vintage.

Note: I am done answering tech. The lack of reciprocity has been disappointing for a long time. The fact that people can't even be bothered to hit the like button any more is terminal.



ok .........


- so listen up class is in session here to help prevent this topic from messing with anybody else in the future hopefully ?


- my SOLID TEq buddy Faye Hadley , and fellow 4 year T-TEN Grad. also has recently made a Vintage TOYOTA Vehicles based TECH. Video Short on her you tube

Everything TOYOTA general topic's Technical Channel in general 411 all about it etc .......


- this is a Early 1980's SUPRA Gas Tank , and she goes over a post 3rd party inside cleaning , and how to property store todays modern 2022 fuel in

a Vintage TOYOTA ALL METAL Tank , no different then any 1962-10/85 FJ40 or FJ55 for that matter , it's 100% same in kind , and i practice this exact method

myself ,
except i use the BLUE Marine Grade Stabil product because its simply better in my own personal opinion ........





- would this have prevented all the long term damage from 10+ years of sitting dormant ?


- not sure , but we all now know that anything close to a decade is far too long i hope , right ? 🤔


- if you value what you see and learn below , please subscribe to her channel , there is some excellent TECH in past pod cast's too ..... :)











@brian
 

ToyotaMatt

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Can you use a chinese 2f carb with a vacuum retard distributor? If not why? Just trying to figure things out.


the why is in the name you just called that said Distributor ........... :poof:




- did you watch the tech video above and learn and new skills ?
 

ToyotaMatt

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Well, I was thinking that maybe the vacuum retard distributor doesn't play well with the troll hole carb, kinda like your reply.


that's correct

i choose NOT to use the R word in public forum , its not right im my opinion
 
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I believe what he’s saying is that he doesn’t think a vacuum retarding distributor is a useful addition to any F or 2F engine.

It can reduce performance (in all areas of operation) - not add.

It was designed to support early 1970s emissions requirements.
 

ToyotaMatt

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Then what do you call it then? And can the two work together or do they clash?


you NEED a Vacuum Advance Distributer bottom line


the other R one will NOT work .....
 

Fj moneypit

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The Trollhole carb is a clone of the world market 61012 Aisan carb used from 81-87. Any kit for an FJ60 will work.

Dirt is dirt.

If you left me a voicemail regarding a stock replacement and I didn’t reply, it is because I have nothing to offer you at this time. I am currently reevaluating all my remaining inventory of carburetors for that particular vintage.

Note: I am done answering tech. The lack of reciprocity has been disappointing for a long time. The fact that people can't even be bothered to hit the like button any more is terminal.
I don’t get on mud often nowadays but definitely got much help from you in the past. Don’t quit answering tech, you’re a valuable voice here on mud. 🤙🏼
 

ToyotaMatt

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Then what do you call it then? And can the two work together or do they clash?


- i have several PRE-OWNED points type late 1970's Vacuum Advance units available for you ...

- i have NOS / NEW units also Vacuum Advance type


- i also have a complete 100% Genuine NipponDenso TOYOTA OEM all JAPAN spec. parts Ignition system free-for-all plug and play kit too , also Vacuum Advance unit


- if your current Ignition coil is aftermarket Ghetto Rubbish , then you need to come and take a stroll in the Land of Wonder and Enlightenment in the TECH VIDEO below


- i hand assemble each kit myself , and its nothing less then the most TOP-SHELF all OEM parts total ignition system solution on the market today


- its based on a ARCTIC Spec. / Frigid Zone Cold Climate Region / Tough as Teq Nails SNOW VERSION system you can possibly wish and hope for to address all your

old , tired , and aftermarket if so , blues .........





 

jbee

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Well, I was thinking that maybe the vacuum retard distributor doesn't play well with the troll hole carb, kinda like your reply.
When I had my trollhole Carb it was the non-US distributor from Specter Off Road that made it all work.
 

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