My plan was to punch this out and put the rotary knob here, does that not work? The switch knob hasn't arrived from ebay yet.
Triple locked?
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My plan was to punch this out and put the rotary knob here, does that not work? The switch knob hasn't arrived from ebay yet.
that is where the rotary knob is on my 98 and that’s the only place I’ve seen them in other trucks.
Yes that's where it fits.
Talk about first world problems. 
"I can't use the special switch for my lockers because my car's night vision button is there".
"I can't use the special switch for my lockers because my car's night vision button is there".
sammybones
Study in Moppishness
It's part # 90980-10631 housing connector F.
You sir, are a treasure. Thank you
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
I may be wrong but IIRC, @NLXTACY has a complete wiring setup with plug for that switch that is basically plug and play.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
yup
OEM Factory Locker Dial Kit for ARB Lockers
OEM Factory Locker Dial Kit for ARB Lockers (FLD-1KIT)
The OEM switch is awesome.
On my 2005 HDJ100 I reused the plug that goes into the switch as the plug was already in the harness behind the dash from the factory. That sent me on a wild chase if by some chance I also had the locker ECU, but alas it was just the plug. Apparently in Europe there was a super rare post-facelift trim with a rear locker.
On my 2005 HDJ100 I reused the plug that goes into the switch as the plug was already in the harness behind the dash from the factory. That sent me on a wild chase if by some chance I also had the locker ECU, but alas it was just the plug. Apparently in Europe there was a super rare post-facelift trim with a rear locker.
Don't know the answer, but the computer/board that controls the locker is in the PS footwell, high and behind the fuse panel there. You may be able to track something down using wire colors from the EWD and see if it's plumbed over there.
To the place for the factory diff computer. As I wrote in the post above yours, the plug is there, the cables are there. The diff computer is located in the glovebox on the other side of the dash. Controls if you are driving at a safe speed to engage the locker, to show the light on the dash, etc. If you do not have a locker and a switch, you do not have the computer. Just the wiring. Cut the plug and reuse it.
Toyota reuses mostly the same wiring harnesses across trims so there are A LOT of unused plugs around the car.
Toyota reuses mostly the same wiring harnesses across trims so there are A LOT of unused plugs around the car.
Ok perfect, so leave the power wire and cut the two signal wires bc they don't go anywhere, correct?
If you are not regearing then swapping in a factory locked rear axle is fairly economical. Typically can be had for about $500!Hey.. I absolutely love the job that Zuk did on my front 3rd Harrop installation. Here's a story about the installation in the link below.
The Harrop already comes with a switch. Though it is too big to fit in slots.
I already have LSD in the rear that amazingly still works. I will most likely get Zuk to do the rear next year to have front and rear Harrops.
Here's an on off switch that I added. I plan to continue to lock the front independently from the rear.
www.CH4x4.com lets you custom design switch button covers.
View attachment 2435605
Neat. When I go for a rear eLocker, I want to get one of these traditional rear locker switches to mount under the pushbutton front locker button. I already have one of the FR-RR in the bag.
Amazingly, LSD still works for now. The rear will be the last mod I make, unless I stumble on a deal.
I have a factory eLocker on the Taco that doesn't work due to a bad actuator. That's part of the reason why I love the simplicity of the Harrop approach.
A lot of posts here on when to use them so going to focus on when to not use them.
- Don't use front in reverse!!!! Friend and many others have broke their locked front backing up.
- Don't use front if steering is turned sharply. The more you are turned from straight the more chance of breakage.
- Don't use front on steep downhill - you really want steering to function fully!!
- [In general front is only on for very short times.]
- Don't use rear on steep downhill, however in some cases it can be useful, but you NEED to be FAMILIAR with how lockers effect handling. It will be a white knuckle ride. If you don't know the cases where it is useful, best to leave them off.
- Don't use either front or rear on steep off camber slopes, you will slide sideways downhill. Can be fun to use rear for bat turns in the right place.
- On flat hard surfaces you may want to unlock even the center, those tires chirping when you steer means you are putting a lot of stress on the drivetrain.
- Locked or unlocked - wheel bounce is bad, very bad.
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Very good information. Should be helpful to a lot of people.
Just completed my first trip with the lockers installed. I'd been aware of most of this, but the highlighted section of what I quoted was new to me, learned through experiencing it. With the wheels locked, if they're not grabbing something, then they're turning 'free' and gravity will do its part. I found the front end was waaay more susceptible to just completely shift/slide when trying a slick, off camber climb. It just took a few obstacles to learn where ATRAC in the front was more useful and effective than having the front locked. Much of that was for steering reasons, but also for that slide factor.
