Triple-locked LX470 blew plug out of cylinder 7 at 270k. New engine advice? (1 Viewer)

[dahlmaker]

Time sert. I did one with the head still installed.

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[ikellymo]

Update:

I had my shop pull the heads.

• New OE exhaust manifolds.
• Drivers head (with blown plug) was replaced with a reman head.
• Passenger head was pulled and sent to a machine shop for rebuild. Surfaced to match reman head.
• Starter replaced with Denso Reman.
• Injectors replaced with Denso
• Coils replaced with Denso new.
• Sparkplugs replaced with Denso new.
• Oil filter replaced with Denso new.
• Timing belt, tensioner & waterpump job. Aisin. I was 50k into timing job so we just reset the clock for 90k.

Exhaust tick is gone. The engine sounds louder. 50 miles after the service, she kinda sounded like a diesel. 200 miles in, I *think* shes getting quieter, and settling into the standard 2UZ sounds, but still seems pretty loud compared to the older background to the exhaust tick. Really glad to have the tick gone (and be driving her again) but weary of the louder sound.

Also, I used to pull 12.5 to 14.5mpg, and now I seem in the 11.8 to 12.5 range but I need to repeat with my standard commute, and some lighter throttle driving. I'm stoked. I did LCA's, tires, a CV and rotors/hubs just before I blew the plug and haven't been able to drive her since.

 

[ikellymo]

Reman with blue bolts:

Original head after rebuild. Note I've consistently used non-synthetic oil every 5k miles. Shop used synthetic this time.

What is this pink crap!!?? I've spent soooo much time trying to clean up my cooling system. Multiple flushes previous to this photo. My gosh.

But checkout the hone marks still present on all the cylinders at 270k!

 

[ikellymo]

 

[ikellymo]

And here's what started this whole mess in the first place. My exhaust tick. As I heard the tick getting louder over last few years, I thought the crack was getting worse, but in reality I guess my sparkplug #7 was slowly winding itself out of the block.

 

[awesomeissquid]

Cool pictures!

I wonder if that pink stuff is some form of stop leak that was added to the system previously?

 

[2001LC]

First, I'm glad you're back on the road. Curious, what was finale tab$?

As you now know. I always advise when a tick, tick, tick heard. Check to see if spark plugs are tight. If after doing so, tick still heard. It's the exhaust manifold. My 01 had both exhaust manifold replaced, at under 60K miles. I just replaced my DS 03 at 317K. The fact the exhaust manifold tick (crack), is so common in the 4.7L. That the spark aren't often a consideration, when the tick heard. But fact is, more spark plugs are the primary reason we hear the tick, tick, tick, pop, pop, pop!

"Pink stuff", is likely a stop leak. Which if, head gasket was leaking, you should see the point(s) it had been. Stop leak, could have been used for some other coolant leak. Interesting also is the crusty yellow in some of the blocks' coolant ports, which some look nearly closed off with.
I'd really hunt for signs, of where if any, coolant leak(s) may have been.
I "may" use BG Coolant flush. I say "may", because if leak found to be in say front heater core. I'd weight options first. In that a chemical flush, may open leak. With the 2003 we still use Toyota LL (red) mixed with distilled water 50/50. Which is a good thing. Since distilled water, is also used to flush out the chemicals flush's until clear.

Looks like shop didn't drain and blowout coolant from the block & heads, as a first step. Making for a messy job.

I would, remove the Power steering reservoir and clean internally. Replace the suction & return hoses, they're weeping. Flush & fill with Mobil 1 MV ATF.
I'd consider replacing the MAF sensor, if not a Toyota.

Been nice if they capped the output nipple of fuel filter.

I'd, use 2 cans of 44K or Chevron Techron to full tank of gas. Monitoring/logging fuel trims before and after.
I'd also run 2 cans BG EPR in oil, for 30 minutes, just before next oil change. Then add 2 cans of BG MOA with new oil.

I'd very likely have replaced the fan bracket and possible drive belt tensioner.

Looks like (not a final assembly picture), they routed crank sensor & oil sending unit wire harness wrong. If that the case, have them rout properly, behind fan bracket. They can replace fan bracket at that time, since removing anyway.
Indication is, wires routed wrong. But since, fan bracket bolt still loose. So not a final assembly picture. I'd check now, to see if routed correct.

Here's one routed wrong, seen after assembly.

The wires, can rub on drive belt and be cut.

Radiator fins need cleaning! Alert Alert Alert

I've a 06LC w/192K I just bought. In reading history I found PO complained of engine temp raising when both front and rear AC on. Toyota Dealership diagnosed with clogged radiator fins. Recommended new OEM radiator, $600 for the US spec Radaitor plus coolant and labor. They should have added...

forum.ih8mud.com

Steering Flush & Cleaning

Cleaning power steering reservoir and flushing it's fluid. Keeps Vane pump and rack & pinion in top condition. These step will help you get, a better idea on how to. Power wash reservoir & hoses using a degreaser, before starting service. Makes for cleaner job. Repeat, once all done with...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[ikellymo]

Brief history of cooling system:
I bought car at 210k. It already had a new(er) radiator installed. I observed the heater to blow cold. I had heater core replaced & after the heater worked. Then plugged up again within a year. I asked a dealer to flush. No luck. Paid an Indy toyota shop to flush, no luck. I have flushed at different times with Thermocure, Thoroflush, Cummins/Fleetguard Restore. My assumption was someone mixed Toyota LL with Dexcool and created some nice silicate sludge. Maybe its stopleak, or maybe both. Fleetguard Restore finally got the new heater core working again. But now we see the yellow/pink crusty stuff so there might be another round in my future. Why do you like BG Cooling system cleaner?

The total bill for this job came out to ~$9500. Fun stuff. Certainly prompted me to look around and consider my options. More interested in driving the rig than working on it, and my job demands a lot of me right now so tackling it myself wasn't in the cards. Brake booster accumulator interfered with getting a good line on Cylinder 7. If I did it again I might consider towing it home and R&R brake booster assembly with a new one ($1400), buying the $500 timesert kit, and having some fun with a bore scope and a vacuum tube. But then I'd still have the cracked exhaust manifolds (which is a $3500 job out here).

I'll take a look at cable routing, thanks very much @2001LC. You a BG fan?

I did drive belt tensioner a year or two ago so we didn't touch. Fan Bracket ... interesting.

I need to get techstream working. Have a few CAN tools, and one that can read AHC numbers, so I've got along without techstream so far.

 

[2001LC]

Brief history of cooling system:
I bought car at 210k. Had new(er) radiator installed. Heater blew cold. I had heater core replaced & heater worked. Then plugged up again within a year. I asked a dealer to flush. No luck. Paid an Indy toyota shop to flush, no luck. I have flushed at different times with Thermocure, Thoroflush, Cummins/Fleetguard Restore. My assumption was someone mixed Toyota LL with Dexcool and created some nice silicate sludge. Maybe its stopleak, or maybe both. Fleetguard Restore finally got the new heater core working again. But now we see the yellow/pink crusty stuff so there might be another round in my future. Why do you like BG Cooling system cleaner?

The total bill for this job came out to ~$9500. Fun stuff. Certainly prompted me to look around and consider my options. More interested in driving the rig than working on it, and my job demands a lot of me right now so tackling it myself wasn't in the cards. Brake booster accumulator interfered with getting a good line on Cylinder 7. If I did it again I might consider towing it home and R&R brake booster assembly with a new one ($1400), buying the $500 timesert kit, and having some fun with a bore scope and a vacuum tube. But then I'd still have the cracked exhaust manifolds (which is a $3500 job out here).

I'll take a look at cable routing, thanks very much @2001LC. You a BG fan?

I did drive belt tensioner a year or two ago so we didn't touch. Fan Bracket ... interesting.

I need to get techstream working. Have a few CAN tools, and one that can read AHC numbers, so I've got along without techstream so far.

BG is a product line, I've trusted for for years. It's also what my local Toyota Dealership, uses and sells. There may be better flush chemicals, for your particular need/issues, IDK. Lots of stuff in the market.

If you have the old head or any parts, with some of the crud. Try sampling what chemical dissolves best, cold. Then you could pump into heater cores, soak, then blow out.

It may be of a benefit, to bypass heater tees. Just by jumping from driver side pipe (out) coming off engine rear water bypass, over to crossover pipe (in) on passage side engine. Then you can keep any crud in engine, from entering heater cores.


I inspect fan brackets (FB) first, while engine running with stethoscope. When out of engine by spinning by hand. Any sound it's on the way out. If it just keeps spinning, it's on the way out. FSM also states; if any oil seen on bearing seal, replace FB.

I rarely reuse a fan bracket, when I've one out.
Dust stick to oil, weeping from bearing seal. This is sign, of very early stage seal failure. Fan bracket shaft bearing, will not likely last another 90K miles.
Looking close, one can see a little oil glistening, lower right area of bearing seal. Even this one, I didn't reuse during T-belt service.

You two choices on which fan bracket to buy. Toyota Aisin or Aisin. Toyota Aisin is top shelve.

 

[ikellymo]

Here is the engine running ~300 miles after the rebuild for anyone curious.

 

[awesomeissquid]

Does the DS sound louder than the PS or is that just the video audio?

 

[ikellymo]

Lol phone says drivers side is 3dB louder when I hold the phone over drivers side vs passenger side. But theres also an airbox in the way on the passenger side. NOT the best way to measure this. I think the video audio was actually surprisingly representative.