Transmission Pan Sealant?

[Skillet]

Looked around but could not find what would be the best sort of sealant on the transmission pan when I put it back.
Anyone know what is the best thing to use? Is it that $30 tube the dealer sells or is there something as good but less expensive?

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

I've tighten my pan bolts a little more that spec with good results. No leaks.

However, Red RTV might by up your alley.

 

[RavenTai]

GE RTV106 worked well, it is a red high temperature (500F), non corosive, fluid resistant RTV.

the Toyota stuff works also

being a warpable sheetmetal pan threaded into stripable aluminum casting I would stick with the recomended touque.

worked just fine for me.

 

[spartan]

Permatex - The Right Stuff - works great. Sets up in five minutes. Impervious to engine fluids.

 

[Skillet]

Permatex - The Right Stuff - works great. Sets up in five minutes. Impervious to engine fluids.

Is this a Kragen / Autozone item?

 

[cruiserdan]

The correct sealant is FIPG 00295-01281. I would not use a substitute.

 

[Vitesse_6]

The correct sealant is FIPG 00295-01281.

I received some at our last Christmas party as a white elephant...Go figure, the instructions say to keep out of eye's... Wonder how that happened

 

[Skillet]

The correct sealant is FIPG 00295-01281. I would not use a substitute.

Dan, is this the $30 dealer tube?

Perhaps I should have you throw that in a box along with that spare power steering pump hose, you spoke of in a different thread on, Monday?

BTW, you were right...Hanna's sliders are, indeed, a "work of art".

 

[bjowett]

When my supply of Toyota FIPG runs out or goes past date, I plan to try some Yamaha Yamabond. They make a large variety of the stuff for various applications. Being that Toyota and Yamaha are quite close, it is easy to imagine some of these sealants may be the same, or at least compatable. Most 2 - 3 oz tubes run about $6.95 retail.

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/apparel/apsubcontaineritems/3/123/all/1/detail.aspx

 

[cruiserdan]

Dan, is this the $30 dealer tube?

Perhaps I should have you throw that in a box along with that spare power steering pump hose, you spoke of in a different thread on, Monday?

BTW, you were right...Hanna's sliders are, indeed, a "work of art".

The published list price is 20.38. It sounds like your local dealer is a bit greedy.

 

[Skillet]

The published list price is 20.38. It sounds like your local dealer is a bit greedy.

Yea, their major client base is Carmel / Monterey where the median price of a starter home is $750K.

They can pretty much charge whatever they want and get it.
Greedy is an understatement around here.

Thanks for the info, I will be calling you and ordering a few things soon.

 

[Mickldo]

The stuff I use here in Australia (don't know if you could get it over in the states) is Three Bond. According to the story I heard they make the sealant for most of the OEM brands. The Subaru dealership I used to work for used it exclusively. It is available in a huge range of compounds to suit various applications. A little more expensive than regular sealants but heaps better quality.

 

[bjowett]

Ahhhh yes... I could not recall the generic name. Thank you!

 

[roncruiser]

I plan to do pull the tranny pan and reseal it. As it is seeping all around the edges.
I have never used a sealant for the tranny pan. I have always used gaskets.

What is the proper procedure to use and apply sealant? How much of a bead? How long do I let it set before torquing down the pan? Do I torque down right away?

 

[OGBeno]

I plan to do pull the tranny pan and reseal it. As it is seeping all around the edges.
I have never used a sealant for the tranny pan. I have always used gaskets.

What is the proper procedure to use and apply sealant? How much of a bead? How long do I let it set before torquing down the pan? Do I torque down right away?

Just put a small bead around the entire metal flange that's on the tranny pan. There's 19 holes...just put the bead about an 1/8" wide between each screw hole and then a bit around the screw hole.

You've got about 15 minutes from the time you apply it till you need to install. YOu can torque right away. I put the FIPG on, lifted it up to the valve body, put two screws in on opposite ends (you'll need an extension on the cross member end) and then added bolts opposite of each other torquing per FSM specs. Don't over torque these bolts. The FIPG does a good job. 30K miles so far and not a drop from the pan.

Good luck.
-onur

ps: the pic below is the old stuff on it. I didn't take a pic of the new FIPG when I was doing this. Anyway, just to give you a reference point.
-o-

 

[roncruiser]

After applying the bead and torquing down the bolts, isn't there always a possiblity of squeezing out the sealant into the pan. Meaning the extra that gets squeezed out inside the pan breaks off or, break loose and starts floating around in there causing trouble? I know its commonplace to use sealant, but I have always wondered about that happening.

When you say an 1/8" wide bead, do you put it more to the inside edge or the outside edge, or right smack dab along the center?

What would you use to clean off the old sealant? Not on the pan side but the tranny side.

 

[XXXR]

The Toyota FIPG is AMAZING... I have a 1964 Comet that would leak even after 4 attempts with new gaskets on the C4. I decided that if the Toy stuff was good enough for the FJ, it was good enough for an old iron horse. After 3 years, not a DROP of tranny fluid. I bet I'll never want to take the pan off again, but I'm as happy as a clam.

 

[XXXR]

"What would you use to clean off the old sealant? Not on the pan side but the tranny side."

A lot of CAREFUL scraping with a sharp blade. Don't scar the metal! If anyone else has a better way, please chime in. I've hear of using a torch, but NO WAY! I won't take a chance of heating up the aluminum that way.

 

[CJF]

I'm tellin' ya guys: Napa filter kit. Worth the price just for the thick rubber gasket that gets used in place of any sealant. No more scraping, no muck, etc. One of very few places I'm non-OEM. I do have and use Toyota FIPG (both black and orange) in most applications.

Curtis

 

[lacruiser]

"What would you use to clean off the old sealant? Not on the pan side but the tranny side."

A lot of CAREFUL scraping with a sharp blade. Don't scar the metal! If anyone else has a better way, please chime in. I've hear of using a torch, but NO WAY! I won't take a chance of heating up the aluminum that way.

I used a wire wheel in my drill motor (USE EYE PROTECTION) and it cleaned all traces of the old stuff off the pan. On the tranny side, I used a razor blade followed by a clean paper towel soaked in mineral spirits. Then a dry paper towel.

BTW, I always thoroughly clean and dry the entire outside of anything I disassemble, to prevent dirt getting inside. So when I used a razor and towel on the trans mating surface, the adjacent area was already clean.


New stuff: Lay a nice 3/16" bead all around the pan, circling each hole. Yes, some will squeeze out into the trans sump, and some outside. No big deal. Any stuff inside that breaks off will be caught in the filter screen.

BTW, I allow the stuff to set up overnight before I refill the trans. Overkill, but I feel better that way!