lacruiser, what brand and type of sealant are you using?
Transmission Pan Sealant?
- Thread starter Skillet
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If you use the paper/rubber gasket and sealant or just the sealant, DO NOT OVER TORQUE your bolts. If you over torque you are defeating the purpose of the gasket/sealant. To many folks tend to over torque/tighten excessively. When you over tighten or torque ANY gasket or sealant, you WILL leak...........Let the gasket do its job....................Just snug it up......
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On the subject of removal of old sealant I have a right angled die grinder with 2" flat disc. This disc has removeable scotchbrite pads that are available in different compounds to suit steel or aluminium. I find that this setup is the best for removing old gaskets or sealants.
With sealant, what about "snugging" it down. When it fully cures, then torque it down to spec. Does this make sense? For some reason, it does not make sense to torque it down to spec uncured.
roncruiser said:
why not? wet it squeezes out inot a wide thin strong seal that is strongly attached to both parts.
RavenTai said:
Yup.
RE: transmission pan sealant - the little details
I know this is a really old thread but I ran across it when I searched looking for information on this subject because I just dropped my tranny pan ('93 FZJ80)... I read numerous posts on this subject here and thought I was all set to go but then got started and realized there were little details that were hindering my progress and made the job much more difficult and time consuming than I had thought it would be...
There are a lot of great people using this forum that write up great tutorials with photos and I appreciate the effort people put into this site but I often find myself wondering "what about this?"
for instance... this issue of removing the old gasket material from the pan.. this was a GIANT PITA.. the tranny pan flange on my '93 80 isn't flat so I couldn't simply scrape it off with a razor blade.. it has a raised mating surface and the old stuff was all over the whole thing and I felt like I needed to get ever little bit off so I scraped as much as I could from the raised surface and then tried several different methods for removing the rest of the old sealant that I ended up finding on another website..
read that ammonia is great for disolving/removing rtv/silicone but I didn't have any so I couldn't test this method...
vegetable oil on a scrub pad... worked ok, but not great...
acetone... didn't have any...
tried some 'goof off' which has acetone in it among other things.... it seemed to work ok but not as well as I had hoped.. I wanted something to melt the stuff off fast. LOL.. I ended up using some of it along with a brass brush and finally got it cleaned off but it took a while and I was terrified that I was going to end up with little tiny pieces of brass in my pan that I would miss and would end up going up into my transmission...
on that note, it was another PITA to try to clean out all the little tiny bits of the old sealant that I scrubbed off with the brush that ended up inside the pan.. every time I would wipe the pan out and think I got it all I would turn it in the light and see another tiny speck of orange...
maybe it isn't that big of a deal but I am under the impression that you don't want ANY foreign, non-magnetic material, in that pan..
I thought about using brake cleaner to try to remove the sealant stuff and clean out the pan but it says not to use on painted surfaces and my pan is painted black inside and out and I was afraid it would damage the paint and make it flake off inside the pan and somehow ruin the transmission...
I've always liked mineral spirits for parts cleaning but I didn't have any because I ran out a while back and that stuff has gone up to $12-$13 /gal now...
I wish I had really cleaned everything around the tranny before I dropped the pan.. especially that cross-member at the back that makes it more difficult to maneuver the pan up there while reattaching the dipstick tube... I was afraid I was going to get dirt on my fresh sealant and end up not having a good seal...
I found myself wishing I had not taken the pan off and just done the fluid exchange....
I know this is a really old thread but I ran across it when I searched looking for information on this subject because I just dropped my tranny pan ('93 FZJ80)... I read numerous posts on this subject here and thought I was all set to go but then got started and realized there were little details that were hindering my progress and made the job much more difficult and time consuming than I had thought it would be...
There are a lot of great people using this forum that write up great tutorials with photos and I appreciate the effort people put into this site but I often find myself wondering "what about this?"
for instance... this issue of removing the old gasket material from the pan.. this was a GIANT PITA.. the tranny pan flange on my '93 80 isn't flat so I couldn't simply scrape it off with a razor blade.. it has a raised mating surface and the old stuff was all over the whole thing and I felt like I needed to get ever little bit off so I scraped as much as I could from the raised surface and then tried several different methods for removing the rest of the old sealant that I ended up finding on another website..
read that ammonia is great for disolving/removing rtv/silicone but I didn't have any so I couldn't test this method...
vegetable oil on a scrub pad... worked ok, but not great...
acetone... didn't have any...
tried some 'goof off' which has acetone in it among other things.... it seemed to work ok but not as well as I had hoped.. I wanted something to melt the stuff off fast. LOL.. I ended up using some of it along with a brass brush and finally got it cleaned off but it took a while and I was terrified that I was going to end up with little tiny pieces of brass in my pan that I would miss and would end up going up into my transmission...
on that note, it was another PITA to try to clean out all the little tiny bits of the old sealant that I scrubbed off with the brush that ended up inside the pan.. every time I would wipe the pan out and think I got it all I would turn it in the light and see another tiny speck of orange...
maybe it isn't that big of a deal but I am under the impression that you don't want ANY foreign, non-magnetic material, in that pan..
I thought about using brake cleaner to try to remove the sealant stuff and clean out the pan but it says not to use on painted surfaces and my pan is painted black inside and out and I was afraid it would damage the paint and make it flake off inside the pan and somehow ruin the transmission...
I've always liked mineral spirits for parts cleaning but I didn't have any because I ran out a while back and that stuff has gone up to $12-$13 /gal now...
I wish I had really cleaned everything around the tranny before I dropped the pan.. especially that cross-member at the back that makes it more difficult to maneuver the pan up there while reattaching the dipstick tube... I was afraid I was going to get dirt on my fresh sealant and end up not having a good seal...
I found myself wishing I had not taken the pan off and just done the fluid exchange....
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I agree that getting the old FIPG off is a PITA...I didn't have to clean off the old pan thankfully because I was putting a new one on (I stripped both the bolt and pan threads so needed a new one) but just getting the FIPG off the bottom of the tranny was a challenge in some tight spots (front and rear).
Couple tricks I learned on dropping and reinstalling the pan...
Even though you have drained the pan, there will still be a fair amount of fluid in the pan so be careful when you finally manage to get the seal broken and have an oil pan ready.
Remove, clean, and reinstall the magnets at the bottom of the pan.
With the front driveshaft removed you have a lot more room (I had mine removed for a gear swap) to work
. Adds time to the overall job if you don't have any other reason to drop the front driveshaft but might be worth it.Remove the two bolts holding the AT dipstick tube in place and swing it out of the way while R&Ring the pan. Reinstall the pan first and then reinstall the dipstick tube into the pan rather than trying to line the pan up to the tube. Bolt the tube back in place. Don't forget to clean off the tub real well while it is out of the way and replace the o-ring with a new one if needed.
Grench
SILVER Star
I used brown 2" 3M Scotchbrite pads on a pneumatic 20,000 RPM angle die grinder. It made relatively short work of it. Be careful though, you don't want to leave the wheel sitting in any one spot. Used gently though it strips old gaskets and surface rust off of mating surfaces quickly and cleanly.
IMHO YMMV I am not a mechanic.
IMHO YMMV I am not a mechanic.
