Transmission Oil Light On > Next steps (1 Viewer)

[lisponger]

Here's the skinny-

I drive a 1989 hj61 with approximately 270,000 kms (167,000 miles) on it.

Specs - Turbo, Intercooled, 11psi of Boost, 3" straight pipe from the dump, and Tru-cool 30,000lbs transmission cooler. Running on AMSOIL fluids.

I picked up the truck in October and have put 22,000 miles on it since then with standard service throughout my brief ownership.

A month ago I was driving up Vail Pass 10,662 feet (3,250 m) at a 7-8 % grade and my transmission oil light illuminated.

Right afterward I pulled over let things cooled down and made it home without issue. I promptly ordered an aftermarket transmission cooler a Long's Tru-Cool http://www.amazon.com/Tru-Cool-LPD4...l+Max+LPD+30,000+Transmission+Oil+Cooler+4921 which measures to 8.5"x22.75"x1.25" a perfect fit in front of the cruiser.

Things have been fine for about a month until this weekend....

Driving back and forth to Utah from Colorado up and over the Eisenhower Tunnel 11,158 ft (3,401 m) and Vail Pass I felt no troubles until my transmission light went on again heading up the tunnel some call it the Ike Gauntlet http://www.tfltruck.com/tfltruck-hall-ike-gauntlet/ . Truly I see test/concept/mule trucks and cars wrapped in stickers being tested going up and down this road until something breaks.

Yes I know I drive a 25 year old truck and asking it to go 50mph up a pass this high at elevation and grade is asking alot but....

The light went on and stayed on until I made it through the tunnel and went off about a minute later as I descended. Upon arriving at home I checked the trans fluid and it smelled significantly burnt.

So the next step is what?

Change my trans fluid/Rodney Flush?
Fan Clutch?

or go DEEP

Drop the tranny, rebuild, and put in a rebuilt Torque Converter?

or

5 Speed?

OR?

 

[Output Shaft]

What's the tire size?
Oversized tires with stock gears can overheat automatic transmissions

 

[lisponger]

255/85/16... I doubt that would have a huge effect.

Really just wondering the next steps to go...

 

[micruz60]

Keep it simple. At first.
But plan for the h55f, you know you want it.

 

[Spook50]

When was the last time you changed fluid? I assume you drained it all when you put on the newer cooler? If you didn't and just topped off the fluid when you put the new cooler on, do a complete drain and put all new fluid in. That's made a big difference for me in the past. Using synthetic fluid, though spendy, helps keep it a little cooler too. I've used Mobil 1 for years, but there are other good synthetics out there too.

Whenever you drive with the torque converter not locked up that will add to the heat. Getting above 50 in fourth gear is what locks it up. But obviously if you're going up a steep pass that's not exactly feasible. It won't lock up in any other gear no matter what your speed unless you have a specially built valve body that allows it.

It could also just be unavoidable age and wear on your transmission, but I would try the fluid first and see where that gets you. If you were planning to stick with the automatic I would recommend a temp gauge too so you can better monitor it.

 

[lisponger]

Thanks @Spook50 I stupidly didn't drain all the fluid before installing the cooler. I'm going to go the synthetic route.

Looks like Mobil 1 is around $200 for 18 quarts for a full complete drain and refill. 18-19 quarts is what I've read is the ticket to make sure its fully clean.

Is that correct?

I'm researching valve bodies as we speak. The auto is pretty nice given how touchy the 12-ht is to throttle input.

 

[Spook50]

It's usually been between 6-8 quarts when I would do it, but I've always only done the drain and fill. Never a Rodney flush (which honestly is the better way to go because it flushes out your torque converter and valve body). I'm about to add a cooler that my brother in law gave me and I'll probably do a full Rodney flush when I do.

Back when I was planning on sticking with the auto, I had planned to order a freshly built one from Rodney at Wholesale Transmissions (in Australia) with his beefed up torque converter (http://automatictransmission.com.au/release.asp?NewsId=26890) and his "extreme" valve body. But I decided to go with an H55........which has been sitting in my shop waiting for me to get the rest of the conversion parts needed for the last 5 years.

 

[lisponger]

Well just ordered 4 gallons of Redline ATF. Then full flush and clean...

@Spook50 ill take that H55 off your hands if you want to part with it. Then my part hunt down begins. If not I'll be saving up for one of Rodney's built Valve Bodies.

 

[Spook50]

One of these days I'll get the swap done, hopefully before my automatic reaches the end of its life. The sooner I do the better though, since the tcase attached to it also has the Valley Hybrids twin stick kit. I'm hoping once my divorce is over and if I can get a decent paying job I can finish getting what I need and do the swap.

My current project though is the gauge voltage regulator. Still waiting on the next version of PCBs for that

 

[Michael Browning]

Having been way down this road, and rebuilt my A440, I have a question.

Obviously it overheated. Did it ever slip or drive strangely?

If not, change the fluid and keep going. Chances are good that it is no worse for the wear. At 190K miles it is worn, but not done. I rebuilt mine when it started to slip at 215K, but there is no hard and fast as to how long the tranny lasts.

You have the right attitude, do not panic.

 

[lisponger]

@Michael Browning no slipping or hesitation. Figured it was a simple overheating issue. This thing just sees endless hills and mountains so it was only a matter of time.

Talked to @cruiseroutfit the other day about options. It's either go the extreme valve body or 5 speed. Of course I'll be towing a trailer with skis, boots, and race supplies this winter all over the Rockies! One of the two is probably going to be a New Years gift to myself since all my ski sponsors are on a fiscal year and I get paid Jan 1.

 

[stockhorse]

My personal opinion would be to forget the extreme valve body or the nomad version Wholesale autos have.Whilst they are "ok" they do not represent the same value as going 5 speed. I have 2 60's with wholesale autos boxes and I would not spend the money again. (second one came with box already fitted.) Can buy 2 fully reconditioned 5 speed gear boxes and transfer boxes for the price of one wholesale box.

If you are towing a decent weight you have to use 3rd gear (thus the lockup in 3rd for the wholesale box) and economy goes out the window big time.
Just My Opinion.

 

[lisponger]

@stockhorse thanks for the recommendation. I'm leaning that way already. Good to hear first hand on those valve bodies.

I honestly don't care if I have an auto or manual. The truck needs to work to get me from A to B in all conditions. Mountains, desert, and everything in between. Dependability is what I'm after.

Soon I'll just have to bite the bullet and head in one direction or another.

Although buying a 25 to 45 thousand dollar Cummins maybe a better solution but the cruiser works for me. I know how to fix it on the side of the road or trail etc etc.