Transmission Gearbox Bearing Rebuild Kit

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my transmisson is got a leak to it, and when i get a new clutch put in i thought i would be a good idea just to clear that up as well. this is the first ime im taking my cruiser to a garage i always did my own work but im not about to tackle the clutch and tranmission by myself. im just gonna get the rebuild kit for man-a-fre and give it to thegarage to put in.. im still looking for a good garage, but does anyone know how much this is gonna cost me in labor?
thanks
-al
 
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Are you chicken?? It's a bit of work but I've pulled the H55 + transfer out of my '82 BJ60 ON MY OWN and in the driveway! I brought in just the tranny (cover and front input bearing retainer removed) to get the bearings changed and it cost $300 just for that! You will need to make sure the garage you're going to has the Toyota SST to pull the bearings. A regular puller WILL NOT WORK nor will a bearing splitter, I know 'cause I tried. The garage I went to said they nearly broke their SST just pulling out the bearings! Apparently they can be real stuck.
I'd be willing to bet you won't get by with paying less than $1000 labour.
 
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Put it this way. I'd be more nervous doing an SOA than a simple clutch job! I paid about $200 - 300 for the tranny bearings & cheap syncros, another $75 for the gasket & seal set, $300 labour just for the bearing & syncro swap. A clutch job is an easy $600, and you still haven't messed with dismantling the transfer or tranny! I think $1000 might be quite a bit low!
Why not come up here and you can SOA my truck and I'll do your clutch and tranny! The shop with the SST is only about 2 miles away!
 
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screw that i dont have the money to mess with the tranny right now ill just do a clutch job before i throw on some bigger tires...i get a few drops out of it a week and sometimes its a lil hard to put in first but other than that it seems to be fine..i just wanted everything a ok before my trip from florida to PA....its got 155,000 miles on it and its a 81 fj60 anyone have a guess how many more miles i can get out of it from what i described?
thanks
-al
 
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[quote author=lowtideride link=board=1;threadid=9741;start=msg86183#msg86183 date=1073495221]
screw that i dont have the money to mess with the tranny right now ill just do a clutch job before i throw on some bigger tires...i get a few drops out of it a week and sometimes its a lil hard to put in first but other than that it seems to be fine..i just wanted everything a ok before my trip from florida to PA....its got 155,000 miles on it and its a 81 fj60 anyone have a guess how many more miles i can get out of it from what i described?
thanks
-al
[/quote]

Your description of what is wrong with your tranny is a little sketchy. If it is just leaking, no biggy. Just have the seals and gaskets replaced when you have it out for the clutch job.

If it won't go easily into first gear, maybe it is just your clutch dragging. Does it grind from N to reverse with the truck stopped? If so, you need to adjust your clutch (lengthen the slave rod). Maybe you don't need a clutch either.
 
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I had a Corolla with over 200,000 miles on the ORIGINAL clutch. It was never replaced. Dad bought it new, I learned standard tranny on it, my wife learned on it my sister learned on it and when my kid was learning on it, it was taken off the road due to rust but the clutch never slipped!
 
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yeah my dads jetta has the original clutch with 200,000 miles on it and its starting to go...on the way home from the beach we had it loaded down and we were going up a hill and the rpms went thru the roof the clutch just let go...i just thought id put a new clutch on before i get some bigger tires because my SOA is sitting on 31s and it looks silly...just dint want to put new rubber on a lose the clutch :(

-al
 
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I did a couple H55s this year and yes the first one had me real scared, now after several I look at them as very strait forward although a manual is a good thing to have.

If you could build the main puller then you have it beat, I pulled on off the internet and made one and ended up buidling my own puller out of a Clam Shell.

Damn that is the second Tech article I should write up.

Good luck
Rob
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Hmmm, Ok really quick in a nutshell.

The rebuild kit or bearing kit comes with five main bearings that need pullers, two full shell needle roller bearings and one half shell set roller bearing plus all the gaskets and seals.

You have to pull the bearings off the Counter gear shaft first ( the bottom shaft in the transmission). They require either the SST tool or make up a simiular puller, in my case I pulled the retaining clips off the bearings. I then purchased a OTC clam shell and ground the contour until it fit into the retaining ring or snap ring groove.

We then used a very small 1 ton bottle jack as a puller, beats the crap out of using a screw type device and seems to pull in a more uniform and smooth actions (gotta love hydrolics).

We of course looked for grade 8 ready rod and had no luck, went to the local spring shop and they had U-bolt material of the same size and thread dimention to fit the puller. We purchased two lengths as the output shaft on a H55 is very long.

Remove case cover(shifte base) first.

Start by removing the locking ball and spring on the rear of the fifth gear assembly. Pull the fifth shift arm and pul the transfer adapter from the transmission. Then measure thrust clearnance, this is were a manual comes in handy for specs.

1st and 2nd gears 0.175-0.325mm
3rd gear 0.125-0.275mm
5th gear 0.1.0-0.030mm


Then you first have to pull the fifth gear assemble off using the puller (make sure the clam shell is tightly clamp onto the gear or you risk chipping the teeth).

Once you pull all the bearings and are able to pull out the upper shaft(Input shaft), you are ready to disassemble the input from the output shaft(top shaft in case). You will have eight needle style loose bearings in between that will be first replaced with the units in the kit. (The reason I went with the hydrolics is these bearings have proven to be very tight and the original idea of using a clam puller and pieces of plate did not work very well. The clam pull however set up with a small bottle jack and strait U-bolt stock worked very well).

Secondly you will pull the Needle rollers out of the output shaft and replace them also.I kinda simplified and passed some steps that I feel are self explanitory.

Everththing in reverse, instead of putting SST drivers on both ends of the shafts to install I prefer to use heat. A old timer helped me through my first one and all he did was attach a 3/8s chunk of steel to my welding table, hanging over the edge. He then heated the plate with the bearing sitting on top unitl I could just barely see the grease on the bearing starting to smoke. Then with a thick pair of welding gloves(you gotta move fast) pick the bearing up and drop it on the shaft into its housing. The bearing will quench against the shaft and shrink, you only have seconds to take a brass punch and gently tap around the race. We do this becasue of the heat and amoun the bearing has expanded and will contract will leave a couple thou between the bearing and shaft.

Once its all back together you can do some more measurements and and check the thrust clearnaces.

In most cases this will make a transmission which I could barely hear the person next to me talk as quiet as new.

PS; The transfer case is a peice of cake and in most cases is in far worse condition than the tranny.

Inspect all your gear surfaces for abnormal wear, high low or chipped teeth before the bearing replacement(or as most call this a rebuild).

Please take the time to clean the outer cases and ensure the internal parts are very clean, one little chunck of dirt could make all your hard work worthless in a split second.


My friend who works with me from time to time is a 48 year old Mill Right, diesel mechanic, automotive mechanic, two tickets in welding and spent 15 years rebuilding locomotive diesels has tought me soooo much and owe much thanks.

Sorry to say he is a chev guy, but every time he opens a H55 with 300000+ miles he always comments on the metal. His comment is ( I will give you one thing, they use some damn tough alloys in these trannies)..


Hmmm, did I say quick and in a Nut Shell?

Good luck.

Rob
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FWIIW:

I would not rebuild it. Just buy another used in better shape. All over and cheap. If leaking gaskets and seals are easy to do and cheap.

Go ahead and rebuild the case. kit around $175 and easy to do. Gotta take the case apart to mess with the tranny anyway. You can do this yourself.
 
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[quote author=lowtideride link=board=1;threadid=9741;start=msg86604#msg86604 date=1073535131]
wow im gonna have to read that about 6 more times and then ill go for it ,thanks for the time spent writing that..im off to bed.
thanks agian
-al
[/quote]

Pictures are the way to go and I wish I had more time to do a proper write up with pics, really swamped right now.



Rob
 

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[/quote] Pictures are the way to go and I wish I had more time to do a proper write up with pics, really swamped right now. [/quote]

Rob[/quote]

Ah, c'mon.... No pix, yet? I'm thinking of attempting this myself, but I may just take it in (4spd) and have it done...

Pix would either take the scare out of me or solidify it...

:):):):)
 

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