Transfer Case Tuneup and Fix (1 Viewer)

[bloc]

Would mounting a winch possibly decrease voltage and impact 4Lo engagement? Today was the first day I hit a trail after the winch was installed and CDL engaged easily however 4Lo refused to engage.

I hit a couple of trails just three weeks ago, before dropping it off for the winch and other work. The only thing I can think of is the winch and voltage after reading voltage matters.

If the winch isn’t in use there should be no impact to system voltage. Unless maybe they left one of the battery terminals loose or something.

 

[2008Sequoia]

I'll check it out. I did some troubleshooting the last few hours. One thing was to disconnect the battery and hook it all back up. That didn't do anything (I waited like half an hour for the controllers/modules to all fully lose power and reset). Nada.

However, I think I made some progress. Here's what I found. I disassembled the cdl and hooked it all back up, leaving it sitting upside down on the housing, but left the guts out in order to test the button. This immediately gave me a quickly flashing diff lock light and it would not even try to actuate. So, I suppose not having the prongs making contact with the pathways breaks the connection. Next, I put the the gears back in and clocked it. As soon as I powered it on it actuated the gear freely and had a solid diff lock light on the dash. I then pressed the button to disengage and it did so, but the light started to slowly flash like it was doing before, keep in mind, its not actually assembled and actuating the rod, its just sitting there in the open air. I was expecting to see it stopped in a different orientation when I got back under the vehicle, only to find it had stopped at exactly the same spot we all clock it to when reinstalling. I tried a few more times. I'd get a nice solid light indictating locked, then blinking light every time I unlocked it. It stopped every time in the same exact spot.

Now I don't k ow if that's it's "parked" position, but I would assume so. This leads me to believe that those divots are indeed likely the cause here...? It's losing the connecrion/voltage when it hits those divots, and erring out? It's weird that when it's assembled like normal, the light would stop blinking and go out if I reversed the truck a bit. Maybe the rod moves just enough at that point to push the gear into a part of the pathways that makes contact and it it acknowledges the fact that it's in the disengaged position?

If the winch isn’t in use there should be no impact to system voltage. Unless maybe they left one of the battery terminals loose or something.

I was going to say the same thing.

 

[cubaniche]

Can anyone confirm if the microswitch is supposed to have any clickiness to it? Mine just plunges in and out with zero feedback or sound. Also, can anyone tell me if after they performed this fix and got it working, was the light flashing upon first start or did you hear it actuate on its own to engage the cdl upon first start? Because that's what mine is doing. As soon as I start it, it tries to actuate the cdl to engaged position (actuates and pulls the rod into the plastic housing all on its own qith no input from me). Which is odd, as I'd assume that if it was clocked properly and in the non locked orientation after install, and every component inside was working correctly, it would just be like any startup with the light off and the cdl disengaged.

Sorry to keep hammering away at the thread. Just trying to get to the bottom of this. The breather hose on mine was still connected at both ends, and as you see in my images, was basically brand new looking inside still save for the obvious scoring marks and the divots on the traces. Oh, where is the 4wd controller on the LX. I dropped the cover panel on passenger side but all I can see there is the blower and nothing else. The vehicle is not setting any codes for this either (checked with an autel bidirectional scanner and also with techstream). I'm currently o ly setting a B15D0 MOST communications error due to failed multi display controller).

 

[linuxgod]

Can anyone confirm if the microswitch is supposed to have any clickiness to it? Mine just plunges in and out with zero feedback or sound. Also, can anyone tell me if after they performed this fix and got it working, was the light flashing upon first start or did you hear it actuate on its own to engage the cdl upon first start? Because that's what mine is doing. As soon as I start it, it tries to actuate the cdl to engaged position (actuates and pulls the rod into the plastic housing all on its own qith no input from me). Which is odd, as I'd assume that if it was clocked properly and in the non locked orientation after install, and every component inside was working correctly, it would just be like any startup with the light off and the cdl disengaged.

Sorry to keep hammering away at the thread. Just trying to get to the bottom of this. The breather hose on mine was still connected at both ends, and as you see in my images, was basically brand new looking inside still save for the obvious scoring marks and the divots on the traces. Oh, where is the 4wd controller on the LX. I dropped the cover panel on passenger side but all I can see there is the blower and nothing else. The vehicle is not setting any codes for this either (checked with an autel bidirectional scanner and also with techstream). I'm currently o ly setting a B15D0 MOST communications error due to failed multi display controller).

Can confirm, no click.

If you didn't open your microswitch it's likely fine. If you did open it to clean it, then it's critical that the hair-sized wires are aligned correctly. Generally I don't recommend people touch this as it's really easy to F it up, and if you can't get them realigned the only repair at this time is a new actuator assembly.

BTW the default (unlocked) position for both the CDL and 4Hi is fully inserted into the transfer case. To engage 4Lo or the CDL, the actuator pulls the rod outward.

 

[cubaniche]

Can confirm, no click.

If you didn't open your microswitch it's likely fine. If you did open it to clean it, then it's critical that the hair-sized wires are aligned correctly. Generally I don't recommend people touch this as it's really easy to F it up, and if you can't get them realigned the only repair at this time is a new actuator assembly.

BTW the default (unlocked) position for both the CDL and 4Hi is fully inserted into the transfer case. To engage 4Lo or the CDL, the actuator pulls the rod outward.

Gotcha. Thanks for the reply! No I did not touch the switch based off all the comments in this thread about how fragile it is. And yes, I'm clear on the rod position and how it actuates. Mine, however, is engaging the cdl as soon as I start it up, after reclocking it and putting it back together. At that point, I can press the button to disengage it but then it just does like a half whirr sound and then begins to steady flash again. I don't know why it does that. I'll then take it apart, again, reclock it and try again, and it does the same thing immediately engaging the cdl upon start up. I tried a battery disconnect every time I did this too. The last couple of times I did this, I found the actuator was under tension when trying to separate the shell. Amd the rod was all the way pulled out of the tcase and into the plastic housing, indictating it was trying to lock the diff.

I'm at a loss. I dont know why it keeps trying to engage the cdl upon start up if it's already in the 'parked' position when it's put back together. It should just remain disengaged upon startup and not actuate unless I ask it to, by pressing the button. Which leads me to believe it's some sort of electrical gremlin of one of the components that make up the actuator. Either the scoring marks are too deep in the pathways, the microswitch is done, or somewhere aspect of how it works is just not working. The thing that gives me pause about that line of thinking though is, that I've seen some of you, and in videos too, completely resurrect the actuator and get it working fine, when it was in a condition far worse than mine.

 

[TeCKis300]

Gotcha. Thanks for the reply! No I did not touch the switch based off all the comments in this thread about how fragile it is. And yes, I'm clear on the rod position and how it actuates. Mine, however, is engaging the cdl as soon as I start it up, after reclocking it and putting it back together. At that point, I can press the button to disengage it but then it just does like a half whirr sound and then begins to steady flash again. I don't know why it does that. I'll then take it apart, again, reclock it and try again, and it does the same thing immediately engaging the cdl upon start up. I tried a battery disconnect every time I did this too. The last couple of times I did this, I found the actuator was under tension when trying to separate the shell. Amd the rod was all the way pulled out of the tcase and into the plastic housing, indictating it was trying to lock the diff.

I'm at a loss. I dont know why it keeps trying to engage the cdl upon start up if it's already in the 'parked' position when it's put back together. It should just remain disengaged upon startup and not actuate unless I ask it to, by pressing the button. Which leads me to believe it's some sort of electrical gremlin of one of the components that make up the actuator. Either the scoring marks are too deep in the pathways, the microswitch is done, or somewhere aspect of how it works is just not working. The thing that gives me pause about that line of thinking though is, that I've seen some of you, and in videos too, completely resurrect the actuator and get it working fine, when it was in a condition far worse than mine.

If you haven't done anything to, or tested the microswitch, that is likely where the problem lies. I would wager that microswitch represents 75% of the flashing on startup issues so many see. It's the position and stop sensor that helps the actuator understand where things are.

See post #2 in this thread quoted here. At a minimum, use a voltmeter/continuity checker to verify that the switch works. May want to open it anyways and spray some electronics cleaner to improve its contact performance. It's small but not impossible to work with.

Case study in the particular problem I had. I was getting "Check VSC System", techstream scan showed a MIL code C1340:

Center Differential Lock Circuit​

- Center differential lock switch - Center differential lock switch circuit - Four wheel drive control ECU​

It's likely many issues of flashing diff lights is a manifestation of some combination of contacts not working.

Removing the upper actuator half clearly revealed why. Corrosion buildup on some contacts. These wiped off relatively easily with some electronics cleaner on a blue shop paper towel.

View attachment 2346510

Checking things out a bit more, the corrosion was likely a symptom of another problem. This microswitch was also had internal corrosion and was failing. Probing with a voltmeter showed that is wasn't working consistently. The microswitch top (black) is clipped on and can be popped off to clean internal contacts. Both problems were probably further symptoms of a weakened and sluggish motor.

View attachment 2346515

I was able to open up this microswitch and with some careful effort (warning...very small components!), clean the corrosion off its tiny internal contacts to return it to operation. That did the trick and now the center diff lock is working without MIL errors.
View attachment 2346516

 

[2008Sequoia]

Can anyone confirm if the microswitch is supposed to have any clickiness to it? Mine just plunges in and out with zero feedback or sound. Also, can anyone tell me if after they performed this fix and got it working, was the light flashing upon first start or did you hear it actuate on its own to engage the cdl upon first start? Because that's what mine is doing. As soon as I start it, it tries to actuate the cdl to engaged position (actuates and pulls the rod into the plastic housing all on its own qith no input from me). Which is odd, as I'd assume that if it was clocked properly and in the non locked orientation after install, and every component inside was working correctly, it would just be like any startup with the light off and the cdl disengaged.

Sorry to keep hammering away at the thread. Just trying to get to the bottom of this. The breather hose on mine was still connected at both ends, and as you see in my images, was basically brand new looking inside still save for the obvious scoring marks and the divots on the traces. Oh, where is the 4wd controller on the LX. I dropped the cover panel on passenger side but all I can see there is the blower and nothing else. The vehicle is not setting any codes for this either (checked with an autel bidirectional scanner and also with techstream). I'm currently o ly setting a B15D0 MOST communications error due to failed multi display controller).

My micro switch had audible feedback. And springiness to it - “click-click” (down/up).
Sorry, I can’t help on an LX (I’m a Sequoia guy)

Side note: If you could show the breather hose in the engine bay - I’m trying to find mine in my Sequoia.

 

[2008Sequoia]

My micro switch had audible feedback. And springiness to it - “click-click” (down/up).
Sorry, I can’t help on an LX (I’m a Sequoia guy)

Side note: If you could show the breather hose in the engine bay - I’m trying to find mine in my Sequoia.

And I tested it for continuity to make sure it was providing an open/close feedback. I agree that your issue is sounding more like the micro switch being the issue and confusing the system where its brains are.

 

[cubaniche]

If you haven't done anything to, or tested the microswitch, that is likely where the problem lies. I would wager that microswitch represents 75% of the flashing on startup issues so many see. It's the position and stop sensor that helps the actuator understand where things are.

See post #2 in this thread quoted here. At a minimum, use a voltmeter/continuity checker to verify that the switch works. May want to open it anyways and spray some electronics cleaner to improve its contact performance. It's small but not impossible to work with.

Ok awesome thanks for that insight. Understanding how things work is important to me haha

I'll try testing it with a volt meter. I have a new actuator coming from Japan. Was 430 USD. So I have no qualms now about messing with my current one. The new one seems to be a newer p/n ending in 120.

My micro switch had audible feedback. And springiness to it - “click-click” (down/up).
Sorry, I can’t help on an LX (I’m a Sequoia guy)

Side note: If you could show the breather hose in the engine bay - I’m trying to find mine in my Sequoia.

Interesting! See, I saw a video from someone in the east (Arab speaking) and when I watched them actuate the microswitch lever, I swear I heard a little click, click, click sound when he plunged it on/off. It was in a shop and lots of other sounds could be heard so I wasn't entirely sure. The breather hose for mine seems to terminate on the driver side under the brake booster by down by the inner frame.

And I tested it for continuity to make sure it was providing an open/close feedback. I agree that your issue is sounding more like the micro switch being the issue and confusing the system where its brains are.

Thanks! It sure sounds like something more electrical as opposed to just the scoring on the pathways. It's just not behaving like others have stated it should.

 

[cubaniche]

Does anyone know what the differences are between the US spec actuator and the ones for other countries?

There's the toyota part 36410-60113 who's corresponding aisin part is SAT-015 and then there's the 36410-60120 who's corresponding part is SAT-016. The 015 is marketed as US spec and the 016 is marketed as Mexico, Guam, Spain, Puerto Rico. I wonder if there's any real difference at all.

 

[DrivenLyfe]

36410-60120 appears to fit a 2011 to 2021.

36410-60112 appears to specifically fit 2007 to 2010. Mine is an 09.

I can find both cheaper than the screen shots below, however I can find 36410-60120 even cheaper than 36410-60112 still. Anyone have any experience here? Can I use the 36410-60120?

 

[Diff Kraken]

36410-60120 appears to fit a 2011 to 2021.

36410-60112 appears to specifically fit 2007 to 2010. Mine is an 09.

I can find both cheaper than the screen shots below, however I can find 36410-60120 even cheaper than 36410-60112 still. Anyone have any experience here? Can I use the 36410-60120?

View attachment 3677674

View attachment 3677675

See what you find here:

ToyoDIY.com

and here:

ToyoDIY.com

 

[DrivenLyfe]

See what you find here:

ToyoDIY.com

and here:

ToyoDIY.com

Was the 01 so likely 02 now. Appreciate the link!

 

[isthatalexus]

Can confirm, no click.

My micro switch had audible feedback. And springiness to it - “click-click” (down/up).

If Mr. T used two different switches, could we conjecture that they changed suppliers/styles at some point? Maybe. If this is the case, then I'd rekindle my hope for finding a replacement. I did a ton of searching online when I was dealing with this, but did not find an exact match.

If anyone still has a switch not currently on the truck, could you please put the calipers on that thing and get some measurements? Maybe I pick this back up.

Also, this switch is investigated in all kinds of Toyota forums; basically any vehicle that has a hi/lo box on it and people that work on them.

EDIT: couldn't help myself and went to Digikey. We are looking for a limit switch with solder lug termination, and what looks like one of either Formed, Leaf, or Simulated Roller style actuator. If you have the noble autismo to search further, or know someone who knows the terminology, please dive in.

Here's a cool PDF about troubleshooting the actuator box for a T4R, which is where I found the 'limit switch' term. https://www.toyota-4runner.org/atta...71-2003-4runner-4wd-problems-t-qtg-312f-d-pdf

 

[linuxgod]

If Mr. T used two different switches, could we conjecture that they changed suppliers/styles at some point? Maybe. If this is the case, then I'd rekindle my hope for finding a replacement. I did a ton of searching online when I was dealing with this, but did not find an exact match.

If anyone still has a switch not currently on the truck, could you please put the calipers on that thing and get some measurements? Maybe I pick this back up.

Also, this switch is investigated in all kinds of Toyota forums; basically any vehicle that has a hi/lo box on it and people that work on them.

EDIT: couldn't help myself and went to Digikey. We are looking for a limit switch with solder lug termination, and what looks like one of either Formed, Leaf, or Simulated Roller style actuator. If you have the noble autismo to search further, or know someone who knows the terminology, please dive in.

Here's a cool PDF about troubleshooting the actuator box for a T4R, which is where I found the 'limit switch' term. https://www.toyota-4runner.org/atta...71-2003-4runner-4wd-problems-t-qtg-312f-d-pdf

FWIW just because mine didn’t make noise doesn’t mean they’re not supposed to make noise. Mine was apart because I was having an almost daily cold start flashing CDL

 

[cubaniche]

My new one arrives tomorrow. Now I'm a bit hesitant to take it apart since it's brand new. I know I have to if I want to do it the 'easy' way. But I'm very close to just ripping the tcase off and taking it to a trusted gear shop that has experience with this. They quoted me 300 to take out the old actuator and install the new one. I just want this back to working condition.

 

[Diff Kraken]

My new one arrives tomorrow. Now I'm a bit hesitant to take it apart since it's brand new. I know I have to if I want to do it the 'easy' way. But I'm very close to just ripping the tcase off and taking it to a trusted gear shop that has experience with this. They quoted me 300 to take out the old actuator and install the new one. I just want this back to working condition.

It's seriously not worth it to take off the transfer case. Swapping out the actuator is about as difficult as sliding a can of soup onto a high shelf. Just watch the filipino guy for correct clocking and use a stiff piece of cardboard or thin plastic against the bottom of it when you flip the top half over to go on top.

 

[cubaniche]

It's seriously not worth it to take off the transfer case. Swapping out the actuator is about as difficult as sliding a can of soup onto a high shelf. Just watch the filipino guy for correct clocking and use a stiff piece of cardboard or thin plastic against the bottom of it when you flip the top half over to go on top.

I would agree....if it hadn't been for all the troubles I've had with mine. I am 110% I've clocked it right, several times. The only conclusionni can come to is that the microswitch is bad, though mine looked super clean. Zero corrosion. Every time Ive put it back together, exactly as shown in that video (and many others Ive seen) it auto engages upon first start, locking the cdl. If I try to disengage it, it tries and then just slowly blinks.

Anyways, thinking about it more, I seriously do not want to pull the tcase off. I mean, I've done a ton of mechanical work over the years, I'm pretty meticulous. I just did the tundra front diff 4.30 gear swap, which was involved. Same for the SC install and resealing the valley plate. That's just on this vehicle.

 

[beveldrive]

On a related note, has anyone found the transfer case actuator motor/electronics cover gaskets available separately from the whole transfer case actuator? I had to go in a couple months ago and clean up the contacts to address the morning startup CDL flashing. When reassembling I pinched one of the gaskets and nicked it. I am confident that I was able to reassemble with a good seal, but I'd like to replace those gaskets the next time I have to go in there.

 

[linuxgod]

I would agree....if it hadn't been for all the troubles I've had with mine. I am 110% I've clocked it right, several times. The only conclusionni can come to is that the microswitch is bad, though mine looked super clean. Zero corrosion. Every time Ive put it back together, exactly as shown in that video (and many others Ive seen) it auto engages upon first start, locking the cdl. If I try to disengage it, it tries and then just slowly blinks.

Anyways, thinking about it more, I seriously do not want to pull the tcase off. I mean, I've done a ton of mechanical work over the years, I'm pretty meticulous. I just did the tundra front diff 4.30 gear swap, which was involved. Same for the SC install and resealing the valley plate. That's just on this vehicle.

From what I’ve seen in the FSM, removal isn’t that bad. The dealer charged 5 hours of labor to pull mine and swap my actuator assembly. I had a similar issue to you - I’m sure mine was clocked right but it kept failing to engage or would just flash fast.