Transfer Case Tuneup and Fix (1 Viewer)

[uclafan]

Advice needed for installing top actuator cap with new microswitch.

So I went ahead and bought a new actuator assembly in the hopes of replacing the top cap which I managed to break off the microswitch (see picture in thread 297 above). I'm thinking that I should be able to drop the new part with the microswitch intact into the old assembly (it's clean since it's been in CA most of its life) but wanted to get the advice of the 200 series experts here. I read about making sure that the gears are clocked corrected (this sets the position of the actuator rods for the 4 lo and center diff?) but was wondering if the entire assembly has to be clocked in a certain position, or can the top part be placed on without any regards or how the bottom gears are aligned? The pictures below are not exactly in the same position, I had a hard time getting the right angle on the shot on the old one since it was still on the LC, but have attempted to show the positions of the M & H markings on the old vs. new to show there is a slight difference in the gear position. Will this difference create an issue if I try to put the new top on the old gear? I'm trying to limit the times that I put on and take off the new top to limit the risk of breaking off the microswitch.

Sorry if I'm not being as clear as I could be, but I was trying to avoid having to have a mechanic to install the whole new unit (as a last resort). Thanks in advance for any suggestions that I haven't thought about.

 

[GhFaris]

Just wanted to say thank to all that have contributed to this thread. My LC lost both diff lock and Hi-Lo shifting. I knew it was probably corrosion/sticking in the motors but was nervous to dig into it until I understood the clocking (cause I knew I would fumble the removal at some point and drop the parts). Hi/Lo now works better than ever but there was zero corrosion in that actuator. Probably just a function of redistributing the lubricant. I also replaced the grounding strap from the TC to the body that was on its last legs. maybe this helped with the voltages?
What I wasn't able to fix (yet) was the top actuator. It is definitely corroded as I cannot get two of the four screws out due to themselves being corroded. Two of the heads are broken from my efforts. The only way I can get the actuator off would be slightly destructive and cutting the remaining two screws out along with bits of the housing. This is something I don't want to do until I have can find a replacement upper actuator cover. Probably unobtanium so I will live without Diff Lock for now.
Thanks again.

 

[linuxgod]

Just wanted to say thank to all that have contributed to this thread. My LC lost both diff lock and Hi-Lo shifting. I knew it was probably corrosion/sticking in the motors but was nervous to dig into it until I understood the clocking (cause I knew I would fumble the removal at some point and drop the parts). Hi/Lo now works better than ever but there was zero corrosion in that actuator. Probably just a function of redistributing the lubricant. I also replaced the grounding strap from the TC to the body that was on its last legs. maybe this helped with the voltages?
What I wasn't able to fix (yet) was the top actuator. It is definitely corroded as I cannot get two of the four screws out due to themselves being corroded. Two of the heads are broken from my efforts. The only way I can get the actuator off would be slightly destructive and cutting the remaining two screws out along with bits of the housing. This is something I don't want to do until I have can find a replacement upper actuator cover. Probably unobtanium so I will live without Diff Lock for now.
Thanks again.

There's the Aisin part listed somewhere in this thread. It's about $600 for the actuator and motors, though if the CDL actuator screws are broken you'd have to drop the transfer case and open it up to swap the whole actuator

 

[DrivenLyfe]

To confirm, the earth strap or wire has the clip on it but it doesn’t connect to anything correct?

If the breather hose is loose, it won’t prevent 4Lo from actuating right?

My CDL still works, my 4Lo worked until the strap was broken. I connected that bad and it still doesn’t work. All else remains the same. The breather hose is more loose now I will say that.

Oh also for some reason the center dash speaker started making static noise even when audio was off, but that was a recent development. This was after driving the car with that ground or earth strap not connected for a while. Started throwing codes and going into limp mode too so I would disconnect the battery and it would go away. This only happened twice. I haven’t been driving the truck much since the past two months or so.

 

[Vasiliy]

To confirm, the earth strap or wire has the clip on it but it doesn’t connect to anything correct?

I was there recently so My wound still fresh, sorry don't have a better photo.

check and erase all codes related to transfer case. with both cardan shaft disconnected , I got a bunch of errors on dashboard

 

[DrivenLyfe]

Oh no s***! Thank you! I will get back under it later today and try to figure it out. Please check the last picture? It seems like maybe that is where the clip goes, but from messing with it last night I am not sure it has that much reach.

 

[cubaniche]

Oh no s***! Thank you! I will get back under it later today and try to figure it out. Please check the last picture? It seems like maybe that is where the clip goes, but from messing with it last night I am not sure it has that much reach.


View attachment 3740803View attachment 3740808View attachment 3740817

My clip broke off. I just have the grounding cable bolted to the tcase where it was before and to the frame where it was before. I made my own grounding cable using fine stranded 6GA wire because the factoey strap was all but corroded away and super "crunchy".

 

[Vasiliy]

Oh no s***! Thank you! I will get back under it later today and try to figure it out. Please check the last picture? It seems like maybe that is where the clip goes, but from messing with it last night I am not sure it has that much reach.

Nope, that bracket (if not mistaken) for actuator harness. Your transfer case without cover shield? or whatever they call it.

Try here

 

[DrivenLyfe]

It looks like I don’t have that part? Is that part of the oem protection? If so, I haven’t had that for a while and 4Lo worked after my skis went on.

 

[cubaniche]

It looks like I don’t have that part? Is that part of the oem protection? If so, I haven’t had that for a while and 4Lo worked after my skis went on.

View attachment 3741167View attachment 3741168

Both clips are actually on brackets. I don't see your cage/brackets installed.

 

[DrivenLyfe]

Both clips are actually on brackets. I don't see your cage/brackets installed.

The one up on the far side of the actuator is. I don’t think the cage has been on since I got the skids on and the 4Lo worked after skids were installed.

Is there metal inside of that clip to act as a ground or earth? If so, I’ll shove some metal in there as it doesn’t seem like any bracket is connected to the actuator at all anyway.

 

[cubaniche]

The one up on the far side of the actuator is. I don’t think the cage has been on since I got the skids on and the 4Lo worked after skids were installed.

Is there metal inside of that clip to act as a ground or earth? If so, I’ll shove some metal in there as it doesn’t seem like any bracket is connected to the actuator at all anyway.

Nope. Just the one ground strap from the body to the tcase. The one clip that you are missing that is on the cage itself just holds the wire loom up and out of the way.

 

[DrivenLyfe]

Nope. Just the one ground strap from the body to the tcase. The one clip that you are missing that is on the cage itself just holds the wire loom up and out of the way.

I appreciate your help! So must be an issue with the actuator. Well time to order a new one I guess.

All ears for best source to get one for an 09LX.

 

[DrivenLyfe]

When driving now sometimes it will go into limp mode and throw the lights below. Also, I let it sit for a few days, turned it on and it threw all the codes again. Another time I put AHC in High and the 4Lo light only came on.

When it goes into limp mode and all the lights come on it is only “fixed” with a battery disconnect. When I put it in H and the 4Lo came on I just cycled the car off then on and it was “fixed”. Does this mean anything to you all?

 

[TeCKis300]

When driving now sometimes it will go into limp mode and throw the lights below. Also, I let it sit for a few days, turned it on and it threw all the codes again. Another time I put AHC in High and the 4Lo light only came on.

When it goes into limp mode and all the lights come on it is only “fixed” with a battery disconnect. When I put it in H and the 4Lo came on I just cycled the car off then on and it was “fixed”. Does this mean anything to you all?

The flashing 4Lo lights and such can be non-descript and coming form completely different root issues. Might be worth pulling codes to get a clearer picture?

 

[DrivenLyfe]

The flashing 4Lo lights and such can be non-descript and coming form completely different root issues. Might be worth pulling codes to get a clearer picture?

When I experience the flashing lights and limp mode, I disconnect the battery. Does that cause me to lose the codes or are those codes stored?

I haven’t done this as I assumed the codes are lost after the battery disconnect.

 

[cubaniche]

When I experience the flashing lights and limp mode, I disconnect the battery. Does that cause me to lose the codes or are those codes stored?

I haven’t done this as I assumed the codes are lost after the battery disconnect.

Depends on if the codes were permanent or not. The permanent ones will persist even after a battery disconnect but will go away after a specific amount of time passes without the code setting as active again. Other codes get wiped out on battery disconnect.

 

[Caveman Cruiser]

Woaw! Thanks All, This is a great thread. I really appreciate all of the valuable information you have shared here.
Especially @TeCKis300 for starting this.

I have the same issue with CDL flashing at startup. First it was occasional on cold weather starts, but now in November, it does it every morning. I want to replace the whole actuator assembly and not mess with troubleshooting the switches and contacts.

I'm about to order this SAT-015 Aisin assembly that Linuxgod had shared for my 2013 LC.
Can someone confirm if this is identical to OEM (in design) or is there any difference between the too? (Car is a 2013 LC)

AISIN SAT-015 Transfer Case Actuator

This AISIN SAT-015 Transfer Case Actuator replaces Toyota 36410-60113, Lexus 36410-60113, OEM parts and is perfect for replacement or a performance upgrade.

www.sixityauto.com

 

[linuxgod]

FWIW mine was replaced about 18 months ago, and I used it probably 50 times on and off while at COTR last month. Yesterday afternoon I fired up the truck cold and the light was fast flashing. So even replacing the actuator won’t make this go away. (It cleared after the truck warmed up).

 

[grinchy]

I’m convinced this is a self test that is failing, and need to go read up on the self test conditions. I also suspect the test can fail silently and only start to flash if you try to use the differential.