Let me see if we have any 'for parts' actuators kicking around.
Transfer Case Tuneup and Fix (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TeCKis300
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Your actuator looks pretty bad. Like it was submerged in water. Why not buy an Aisin actuator for $600 and use that as the motors, contacts, grease, etc will be new and in good condition?
I have an actuator in which the one thing which is not right is the switch. So the exact opposite of what you need.
Thanks, that picture is a photo i grabbed from a forum. My motor had no rust or corrosion and the case was surprisingly clean for 280k miles. The switch contact points had some corrosion and in the process of cleaning, i broke the switch
The rest of my parts look good and function well. Thanks again.
No go, everything we have here is complete. Unfortunately we've tossed bad actuators that likely had the switch you want.
Ah ok. Completely broken or just mangled the contacts? My switch isn’t broken but I messed up the contacts and it’s tough to get them to realign correctly. I eventually gave up. I do have my actuator but I kept it so I could bench test this winter and try to figure out why these fail. Depending on how fast you need the part I could send it to you, but I can’t guarantee it’ll work as expected… I had issues getting my actuator to work correctly after cleaning it and I suspect at least part of that is misaligned wires in that stupid switch. Also without the switch it’s harder for me to bench test but if I might be able to make your switch work for me enough for testing.Thanks, that picture is a photo i grabbed from a forum. My motor had no rust or corrosion and the case was surprisingly clean for 280k miles. The switch contact points had some corrosion and in the process of cleaning, i broke the switch
The rest of my parts look good and function well. Thanks again.
Either way like I said a new Aisin actuator is under $600, so a lot less than the OEM one. Not ideal but it’s going to be hard to source that specific part. Hopefully you have some luck finding someone who swapped their actuator and has the old one to scavenge but if not feel free to PM me
- Thread starter
- #226
I would imagine a generic limit switch could be used in place here. If we're lucky, it'll drop right in, but more than likely would need some minor rework to solder and epoxy in. Just need to find the right donor switch.
It's going to be an SPDT type. And we'll have to figure out if it's normally on or off (NC or NO).
If anyone can get a picture of the actuator with some caliper measurements, we could probably make that happen.
This one is probably not small enough?
Digikey has a bunch but need more measurements before looking at that catalog.
It's going to be an SPDT type. And we'll have to figure out if it's normally on or off (NC or NO).
If anyone can get a picture of the actuator with some caliper measurements, we could probably make that happen.
This one is probably not small enough?
Digikey has a bunch but need more measurements before looking at that catalog.
Well I was going to offer to measure mine but I just opened up the old actuator and the moving end of my switch is missing. WTF? I’m 100% sure it was there when I put my actuator back together like 3 or 4 times. I also noticed the screws were REALLY tight. Wondering if the dealer scavenged that switch off mine when they gave me the part back. Hmmm. So I can measure the switch housing but the plastic top is missing.
Rough photo, calipers are in the garage and it’s snowing…
- Thread starter
- #228
Rough eyeballing, but there's a chance the Amazon limit switch could fit?
There's some electronics guys on these boards. Maybe we'll get some of their expertise to locate a better form fit part?
Sorry to hear it's missing parts. I know the Tundra guys seek this too.
The pins on the Toyota switch are on the ends, not the bottom.
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- #230
True, and would take rework to solder the leads but relatively easy to do. There's room to find a better form/fit/function switch if anyone is up to it.
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This looks to be a lot more simple than pulling the whole actuator off the rods/t-case…
I had no idea separating the actuator in half was possible- with the actuator still attached to the t-case. Anyone tried this method?
I had no idea separating the actuator in half was possible- with the actuator still attached to the t-case. Anyone tried this method?
I think that is what TeCKis300 did and started this thread about. Cleaning the area very good prior to opening up seems key.
Must have missed that, I thought most were removing the actuator- which makes me nervous- seems like this way you're less likely to get it wrong.
I do have to say, (knock on wood)- after replacing my battery and exercising 4LO and the diff lock- my flashing light hasn't returned....
Some folks have been able to R&R these motors. Some have found they're in bad shape and need to replace the whole actuator. The beginning of this thread shows how to pull the external motors off and clean them up.
Actuating 4Lo and the CDL can help, but for slightly different reasons than some people think. It has nothing to do with the transfer case internals engaging or the diff fluid... engaging the mechanisms causes the externally mounted motor to spin which pushes the rod into the transfer case to engage it. There are metal contacts and switches and the activation can essentially help "remove" very minor corrosion - particularly the semi-circle metal contacts.
Nobody is 100% sure why we get the fast flashing CDL light, but because it happens instantly at startup I highly suspect it's because something inside the motor isn't making good contact (or is making contact where it shouldn't, or simply is seeing the motor in an invalid position) and the flashing CDL is the systems way to deactivating the motor to avoid damage. It's always been odd to me that driving for about 5 minutes and then restarting the truck seems to clear it for most people as the external motor isn't being exercised or lubricated like the internal transfer case components. Maybe it's a bit of heat coming off the exhaust or warmth from the transfer case or warm air flowing out the breather that makes things function?
You can also see the above "fast flash" issue if you push the CDL button, particularly when the vehicle is cold. If the CDL flashes slowly that means it's trying to engage and in that case driving and/or turning a bit will usually cause it to lock in as the CDL doesn't want to lock unless the front and rear shafts are spinning at the same speed (50/50). It's why finding a gravel parking lot and doing figure 8's will help - if there's a bit of binding, which could even be because your front and rear tires are slightly differently sized due to wear, then your transfer case might be splitting power 49/51 and so turning slightly will alter the ratio just enough to engage.
I have a spare sitting in my garage. I’ll find it and see if I can measure the micro-switch.
Check your breather hoses, mine were cracked at the nipple and had some minor corrosion on the sliding tracks. Needed to cut off the ends and extend the very small and delicate hoses (there was almost zero slack in mine) 2015 LX w/ 70k when I R&R'd the units last year.
I think I spent 8 hours once trying to triangulate Toyota suppliers who make submicro switches and who may list those for sale. I world have happily bought a few hundred of them to supply MUDfreinds, but no luck on finding. If someone has an electromechanical buddy, maybe this route can still be viable.Well, I really dropped the ball on this one, now didn’t I?!
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