Transfer Case Tuneup and Fix

[linuxgod]

Anyone know the Toyota regional service manager phone numbers (maybe @OGBeno or @gaijin)? I went back to my records and I clearly reported the flashing CDL issues at 75k and 90k when still under the Toyota Platinum VSA, and both times the answer was "no codes, can't duplicate". I'm doubting it's going to help given I'm at 137k now but figure it's worth a shot. Other than the corporate number the only ones I've come across were on a Tundra forum but they're 11 years old and the Chicago-area number just rings without any voicemail or anyone answering so I'm suspect as to whether it's still valid...

 

[linuxgod]

My fun continues. Dealer says they are able to manually attempt activation by bypassing something... not entirely sure what, but they said the CDL grinds when they try to do that. I'm assuming it's the actuator rod not fully engaging (or attempting to over-engage) and hoping when they break apart the transfer case and swap the whole actuator it'll resolve this, but from the call I got I have a suspicion they're going to say there's something wrong inside the transfer case as they gave me an insane "this what a new transfer case will cost, just in case" which was way more than what a new, full price transfer case sells for on parts.toyota.com.

I really used to like this dealer but since Covid I've heard a few mixed comments and I'm now not entirely sure I trust their assessment. Also they quoted $3k to replace the timing cover to stop the oil leak I have. I'll probably live with it for now but I'm wondering if @bloc or anyone else has gotten a quote for the timing cover

 

[bloc]

My fun continues. Dealer says they are able to manually attempt activation by bypassing something... not entirely sure what, but they said the CDL grinds when they try to do that. I'm assuming it's the actuator rod not fully engaging (or attempting to over-engage) and hoping when they break apart the transfer case and swap the whole actuator it'll resolve this, but from the call I got I have a suspicion they're going to say there's something wrong inside the transfer case as they gave me an insane "this what a new transfer case will cost, just in case" which was way more than what a new, full price transfer case sells for on parts.toyota.com.

I really used to like this dealer but since Covid I've heard a few mixed comments and I'm now not entirely sure I trust their assessment. Also they quoted $3k to replace the timing cover to stop the oil leak I have. I'll probably live with it for now but I'm wondering if @bloc or anyone else has gotten a quote for the timing cover

I haven't, if it gets done I'll be the one to do it.

It is a whole lot of work though, so that quote doesn't surprise me much. If it were an easier job I would have done it by now.

 

[linuxgod]

I haven't, if it gets done I'll be the one to do it.

It is a whole lot of work though, so that quote doesn't surprise me much. If it were an easier job I would have done it by now.

Thanks. I will likely degrease and just watch it for now. I don't have any oil spots so I don't think it's that bad, despite seeing a drop or two hanging from the bottom front of the engine. They gave me some "it's like 15 hours" estimate but the FSM says it's 6.6 hours and their transfer case replacement (if needed) was "about 7 grand" which is just ludicrous given a new Toyota transfer case can be had online for $3k or less and as far as I can tell the actual effort to swap it is maybe a few hours (given the FSM says 5.7 hours to R&R the actuator and the actuator is included with a new transfer case so it's LESS labor). In short I trust them about as far as I can throw them at this point, ever since Covid that dealership has been getting more expensive and aggressive and I'm quite suspect at their service writer

 

[linuxgod]

$2600 later the actuator has been replaced and works flawlessly and instantly, at least in the dealer parking lot.

$1550 for the part (which is list price), $880 labor, and then like $125 tax. I probably should’ve bought the $600 Aisin part and reattempted this but I can’t afford more downtime and I have a wheeling trip planned for this Sunday

I have the old actuator and I’m going to futz with it on my bench later this summer and see if I can figure out how to activate and test it. I suspect my issue was just a misaligned CDL actuator rod as the service guy said “the spring was bad” which I assume means the rod wasn’t clocked correctly. Whether or not that was because the rod was actually misaligned or because the micro switch wasn’t activating when it was supposed to and was letting the gear over-rotate is TBD.

If I get it functional I’m going to re-clean it and offer it up for someone who has a failed motor as mine was hardly bad (contacts only had a little bit of burned grease, microswitch only had a tiny bit of green corrosion).

 

[TeCKis300]

$2600 later the actuator has been replaced and works flawlessly and instantly, at least in the dealer parking lot.

$1550 for the part (which is list price), $880 labor, and then like $125 tax. I probably should’ve bought the $600 Aisin part and reattempted this but I can’t afford more downtime and I have a wheeling trip planned for this Sunday

I have the old actuator and I’m going to futz with it on my bench later this summer and see if I can figure out how to activate and test it. I suspect my issue was just a misaligned CDL actuator rod as the service guy said “the spring was bad” which I assume means the rod wasn’t clocked correctly. Whether or not that was because the rod was actually misaligned or because the micro switch wasn’t activating when it was supposed to and was letting the gear over-rotate is TBD.

If I get it functional I’m going to re-clean it and offer it up for someone who has a failed motor as mine was hardly bad (contacts only had a little bit of burned grease, microswitch only had a tiny bit of green corrosion).

Whew! Must feel good to have the actuator working again. I apologize if this thread lead you down a challenging path. At least that's behind you and the Land Cruiser can reliably and confidently actuate to do Land Cruiser things again. I know I was frustrated with mine when it wouldn't switch when I really needed it to. Friends were ribbing that it was a chink in the otherwise steadfast armor when I had to pull over, turn the car on/off a couple times, to get it to flip modes.

 

[linuxgod]

Whew! Must feel good to have the actuator working again. I apologize if this thread lead you down a challenging path. At least that's behind you and the Land Cruiser can reliably and confidently actuate to do Land Cruiser things again. I know I was frustrated with mine when it wouldn't switch when I really needed it to. Friends were ribbing that it was a chink in the otherwise steadfast armor when I had to pull over, turn the car on/off a couple times, to get it to flip modes.

Yeah it feels good. My wallet is lighter too so it’s not weighing me down!

Seriously though, it was blinking every morning so I’m not really any worse off. And while I don’t really want to reattempt it, if I were to do it again I wouldn’t disassemble the micro switch and thus it likely would go fine.

Honestly if I were to do it again I’d spend the $600 on the Aisin actuator and replace with those new motors (as they’d also come with a new micro switch).

 

[golfer2000]

I removed the housing without removing the transfer case or the transfer case rods. To install my new actuator assembly, I did exactly as the Saudi Arabia based Filipino mechanic did in this video:

Man I'd love if someone could translate these videos!

 

[Bullgump]

@linuxgod do you have the part numbers for the Toyota and the Aisin actuators. I have had sane issue..18' with 85k miles...but the other day I was driving, slowed for a curve and as truck was down shifting a heavy thunk was heard and felt in rear end. No lights no leaks and drove home with no issues. This morning the dreaded 4lo and diff light flash. With LCDC right around corner, I am on the fence as to attend or not. Pulling my tent trailer as well. I'm already getting into brakes and those SPC ball joints this weekend and I know my limitations when it comes to jacking with gears. I have a shop I trust that doesn't mind me bringing my own parts.

It's never ever just get in the boat and go. Always something.

 

[linuxgod]

The OEM part numbers vary slightly by model year. They seem to sell for a bit over $1k if you source them, and list price is about $1550 which is what the dealer charged me.

Aisin part is SAT-015 supposedly, at least for my 2013. I haven’t tried it to confirm but it’s under $600 at AISIN SAT-015 Transfer Case Actuator - https://www.sixityauto.com/aisin-sat-015-transfer-case-actuator-for-36410-60113-sat-015-motor-gear-box-3092000239.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwtO-kBhDIARIsAL6LorfjkWq8qhNo2UDFKG0X7VVZTydteUBLEQvhIWQQ9csrIGT9kgTvdK8aAngVEALw_wcB

 

[Bullgump]

The OEM part numbers vary slightly by model year. They seem to sell for a bit over $1k if you source them, and list price is about $1550 which is what the dealer charged me.

Aisin part is SAT-015 supposedly, at least for my 2013. I haven’t tried it to confirm but it’s under $600 at AISIN SAT-015 Transfer Case Actuator - https://www.sixityauto.com/aisin-sat-015-transfer-case-actuator-for-36410-60113-sat-015-motor-gear-box-3092000239.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwtO-kBhDIARIsAL6LorfjkWq8qhNo2UDFKG0X7VVZTydteUBLEQvhIWQQ9csrIGT9kgTvdK8aAngVEALw_wcB

Thanks. As soon as I posted, walk out, crank aaaannndd lights all off. Went through engaging and disengaging diff and 4 lo with no issues. May order the part for my year and keep it with me. A very weird and unpredictable issue.

 

[paulunm]

The OEM part numbers vary slightly by model year. They seem to sell for a bit over $1k if you source them, and list price is about $1550 which is what the dealer charged me.

Aisin part is SAT-015 supposedly, at least for my 2013. I haven’t tried it to confirm but it’s under $600 at AISIN SAT-015 Transfer Case Actuator - https://www.sixityauto.com/aisin-sat-015-transfer-case-actuator-for-36410-60113-sat-015-motor-gear-box-3092000239.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwtO-kBhDIARIsAL6LorfjkWq8qhNo2UDFKG0X7VVZTydteUBLEQvhIWQQ9csrIGT9kgTvdK8aAngVEALw_wcB

So if you buy this whole actuator assembly, which includes the rods- can you just remove the old one and slide the new unit in?

Do you need to worry about clocking the rods correctly? I don't want to mess with taking the actuator apart- I'd rather one and done.

 

[linuxgod]

So if you buy this whole actuator assembly, which includes the rods- can you just remove the old one and slide the new unit in?

Do you need to worry about clocking the rods correctly? I don't want to mess with taking the actuator apart- I'd rather one and done.

To remove the rods you must drop the transfer case and open it up. They are held inside the transfer case by C clips and can’t slide out. So yes you still have the issue with clicking the motors no matter which replacement part you use if you don’t want to drop the transfer case.

 

[paulunm]

To remove the rods you must drop the transfer case and open it up. They are held inside the transfer case by C clips and can’t slide out. So yes you still have the issue with clicking the motors no matter which replacement part you use if you don’t want to drop the transfer case.

Damn... so even if I buy a new actuator I need to take it apart to clock the motors, correct?

 

[linuxgod]

Damn... so even if I buy a new actuator I need to take it apart to clock the motors, correct?

No, you can remove the two motors and replace them while the TC is still on the vehicle. You just need to follow the procedure outline earlier in this thread. It’s not that hard, I think I just created more issues by taking apart the micro switch when I tried to clean my existing motors up. If you buy new motors and swap them with your truck in 4Hi and the CDL unlocked (normal driving) you shouldn’t actually have to touch the actuator rods and can just swap the motors over.

If your motors are in decent shape cleaning them up and applying new dielectric grease should be sufficient. If your motor is rusted then I’d buy a new Aisin set for $600

 

[golfer2000]

Is this a typical noise of the 4lo-4hi switch?

 

[radman]

I lucked out and got the actuator sub-assembly swapped out under warranty. 99,900 miles - talk about waiting until the last minute!

 

[fj60eric]

Many thanks for all the input and wisdom on this forum. We took the LX camping last weekend where it saw a couple hundred miles towing as well as some 4lo on trails and when backing onto leveling blocks. I always throw it in 4lo to creep up my driveway and park it, but when my wife jumped in Monday morning to take the camper back to our storage lot the dash was lit up like a Christmas tree and it was stuck in 4lo. Fast forward to eliminating factors like the 5 year old flipping all the levers and pushing all the buttons I found this thread and was prepared to tear into the actuator motor this weekend. I dropped the camper and spent some time driving the neighborhood and doing the typical forward/backward stuff to no avail. As a last ditch effort I decided to do a hard reset. Found some corrosion on the positive battery terminal which I cleaned up, removed both terminals, touched them together, then hooked them back up. Crossed my fingers, hopped in the drivers seat and started it up. Sure enough everything was right as rain! I shifted back and forth from 4hi to 4lo multiple times and it engaged promptly everytime.

The LX started fine Monday morning, however my guess is that I had a potentially low(ish) state of charge coupled with some corrosion on the terminal which caused actuator issues. It is likely that there is corrosion in the actuator (2010 w/ 180k miles) however it engages/disengages 4lo just fine so I don't think I'm going to dig into the actuator business at this point. I'll grab a new battery before fall and keep an eye on it, but wanted to pass along my experience to others in a similar boat. Now I can spend my Saturday doing the long overdue AHC fluid change....

 

[isthatalexus]

Many thanks for all the input and wisdom on this forum. We took the LX camping last weekend where it saw a couple hundred miles towing as well as some 4lo on trails and when backing onto leveling blocks. I always throw it in 4lo to creep up my driveway and park it, but when my wife jumped in Monday morning to take the camper back to our storage lot the dash was lit up like a Christmas tree and it was stuck in 4lo. Fast forward to eliminating factors like the 5 year old flipping all the levers and pushing all the buttons I found this thread and was prepared to tear into the actuator motor this weekend. I dropped the camper and spent some time driving the neighborhood and doing the typical forward/backward stuff to no avail. As a last ditch effort I decided to do a hard reset. Found some corrosion on the positive battery terminal which I cleaned up, removed both terminals, touched them together, then hooked them back up. Crossed my fingers, hopped in the drivers seat and started it up. Sure enough everything was right as rain! I shifted back and forth from 4hi to 4lo multiple times and it engaged promptly everytime.

The LX started fine Monday morning, however my guess is that I had a potentially low(ish) state of charge coupled with some corrosion on the terminal which caused actuator issues. It is likely that there is corrosion in the actuator (2010 w/ 180k miles) however it engages/disengages 4lo just fine so I don't think I'm going to dig into the actuator business at this point. I'll grab a new battery before fall and keep an eye on it, but wanted to pass along my experience to others in a similar boat. Now I can spend my Saturday doing the long overdue AHC fluid change....

This is funny. So many of the 'you're gonna need a new motor and tranny and fuel system' issues come down to 'I cleaned up the little bit of corrosion, and it worked' stuff. Kind of makes me want to post up by the parts dumpster behind the dealership to collect restorable spares.

 

[ninerdriver]

Hail Mary attempt here, I have not been able to find anyone who has found a replacement for just the micro limit switch. Does anyone have a supplier or pn for the micro limit switch?

Failing that, anyone have an old housing lying around they want to sell with a good limit switch? I'm trying to avoid a new or junkyard purchase of the whole actuator assy. Thanks.

Mathew