Transfer Case Shift Rod (1 Viewer)

[Shellcrack]

Hello Folks,

Need a little help on a transfer case part #36308-60240.
I had this removed as transfer case was locked in 4H. The mechanic said that the rubber round cover is damaged and the rotating joint is not freely moving.
Can anyone please let me know if there is another compatible part that may be used or a Mc-guivered solution, since the lead time for is is more that 6 months. I have attached a picture for reference.
Thanks a lot for the help!

 

[OEMGUY0720]

That joint (similar to a ball joint) doesn’t rotate. It moves a little on all directions to help guide it when securing it to the lever in the tcase.
So that joint has fully seized and you/the mechanic is not able to put back the rod back into place? Did you pull down the tcase?

 

[Shellcrack]

That joint (similar to a ball joint) doesn’t rotate. It moves a little on all directions to help guide it when securing it to the lever in the tcase.
So that joint has fully seized and you/the mechanic is not able to put back the rod back into place? Did you pull down the tcase?

Thanks a lot,
Enclosed are some photos of the shaft rod. The small bolt in the ball joint does move freely. The mechanic only removed the shaft rod without pulling down the transfer case. If the shaft is good, would there be issue with the shifter stick that is causing the transfer case not to move to 2H?

 

[Mark W]

There is no way that ball and socket are seized so badly that it can not be freed to work until you get a replacement.

Remove the rubber boot. it is worthless at this point anyway. Apply some heat with a torch. Focus on heating the joint itself, not the threads. Get it cherry red. DON"T hit it with any oxy. You don't want the steel to actually burn itself. You don't need it quite that hot anyway. the heat will break down the rust. a LOT.
after it cools, bolt the threaded end into something sold and put some pressure on the rod. Once it moves, and it will, work it back and forth until it moves freely.

If you don't have a torch, soak the seized end in some muriatic acid until it stop fizzing/bubbling. Then, rinse it off and bolt it ion something solid and....

If you don't want to use acid, try some ed's red... acid is much better, but Ed's is an amazing penetrating oil.

Personally... I would use all three in the order I mentioned them here.

I have no doubt whatsoever that this joint can be freed.

Mark...

 

[Zuberg]

A few threads on fixing stuck transfer case/shifter.

Stuck low range gear.in 100 series.

I have 100 series land cruiser 2001.Its low range is stuck in "H" and it does't shift to "N" or"L".please guide.

forum.ih8mud.com

“Un-Sticking” The Transfer Case Lever

I’ve been working through the various corroded components on my rig and found the 4 H N L Lever is “stuck” in the 4 H position. I mentioned this earlier and folks pointed out it probably needs a bit of PB Blast and some force. I’m sure it’s never been engaged - Question - once I let the PB work...

forum.ih8mud.com

I don't think the linkage is your issue. Yes the boot is torn. Most likely need to free the areas in red, pictured below. They corrode and need to be cleaned and greased.

 

[Malleus]

You do not need to replace the rod.

The rod ends are replaceable. Unscrew them and install new ones. There is no reason to futz around with worn out $10 part:

however, this can't be the reason your shift lever won't move. It's more likely that the pivot is stuck.

Spray some penetrating oil on the rod and work it back and forth until it frees up. This should move if the lower rod (the one with the rod ends attached to it) is disconnected - the transfer case isn't connected at that point.