Stuck low range gear.in 100 series. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Black LC
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JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Shifter lever rod is seized in the shift lever retainer. Need to remove the shifter assembly from the top of the t-case (4 bolts), soak it in penetrating oil or ATF, and then work the shifter back and forth repetitively and with force to try to free it up. Then remove the shifter assembly from the shift lever retainer, clean inside the retainer housing, and apply copious amounts of MP grease to prevent this from happening again. @knewstance had the same problem a few months ago.
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Don’t mean to point out the obvious, but are you coming to a complete stop and putting the transmission in neutral before attempting to switch transfer case gears?
- Thread starter
- #4
Yup doing it by steps but it does't move
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Then your problem and solution are most likely my post above...
- Thread starter
- #6
Thanks man this will help alot.And one thing is rear diff will only enable if we are in low range right?
- Thread starter
- #7
Rear difflock*
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Yes, only in low range. Although it is very unlikely that your 2001 has a rear diff lock, unless previous owner or you swapped one in. Are you referring to the center diff lock instead?
- Thread starter
- #9
It have a rear diff lock knob when i turn to "lock"(in high range) a red indicator blink continuously. It does't stay on.
Had the exact same issue. Literally tried every kind of solution to unlock to no success, and after breaking, purchased new. JunkCrzr89 is spot on w/ details to clean. Transfer case shift lever retainer is pretty easy to remove. Reinstalling a bit more difficult. In the end during re-install, I ended up drilling 1" holes right over the covered holes for easy access and then plugging them.
Rear diff lock won't try to engage until transfer case is in "L". Resolve the tcase shifter issue then try the Rear Diff switch again.
Starting here, you can see some steps and pictures in my build thread.
I agree, the re-install is not easy. I used just a ratcheting wrench and that worked pretty well. I did have to do some acrobatics to reach though.
I was able to fix my transfer case lever without removing it. It took a bit of oil, but once I was able to pull up on the lever, everything else worked. In my 1998 105 RHD manual, there is a gate that keeps the transfer case in H (H2 or H4). It still takes two hands to pull the lever up and back to get it into the L range (N, 4L), but I doubt the truck was ever in L with the previous owner.
This photo might help. The lever is offset far to the left, for the RHD configuration. No center console on my barn-door 105!
This photo might help. The lever is offset far to the left, for the RHD configuration. No center console on my barn-door 105!
Mauser
Supporting Vendor
I pulled the trim and boot around the shifter and sprayed some PB Blaster in the mechanism and worked the shifter back and fourth with a short piece of pipe as a cheater. Took a little while, but it worked.
- Thread starter
- #16
Yeah t case issue is first priority.
- Thread starter
- #17
I removed the trim but i did't remove the boot instead i stretch the boot and put alot of wd-40 in it. Giving some force back and fourth it only comes to "N" barely.
- Thread starter
- #18
But now by ur advice i will try to remove the boot.
@JunkCrzr89 and @Alexholl2015 have already nailed it but here is my explanation from a few years ago.
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Having the exact same issue now. We were in the bush and it got stuck on the way between L and H. It wouldn't budge. I tried with my foot, but was too tall to fit. My wife, a little shorter, was able to leg press it into H, and we were back on the road. We actually ended up bending the lever a bit, but that's better than being stuck in 4LO on the highway.
Any way, home now, lever assembly has been removed, but it is STUCK fast, and definitely corroded. Two of the four bolts holding it on were loose and the gaskets were shot. An overnight soak with WD40 did nothing. Next up is ATF. I assume this is Automatic Transmission Fluid?
Any ideas on best practice to straighten the lever? Technically its not really necessary, it just puts the knob closer to the dash and strains the leather boot a tad.
Any way, home now, lever assembly has been removed, but it is STUCK fast, and definitely corroded. Two of the four bolts holding it on were loose and the gaskets were shot. An overnight soak with WD40 did nothing. Next up is ATF. I assume this is Automatic Transmission Fluid?
Any ideas on best practice to straighten the lever? Technically its not really necessary, it just puts the knob closer to the dash and strains the leather boot a tad.
