Transfer case seal part numbers (3 Viewers)

[KoffeeKommando]

Got a bit of an issue here with part numbers and descriptions.

1989 4Runner with W56-B trans and matching transfer case (whatever transfer is called RF1A?)
Have a leak on the front driveshaft transfer case output seal.

The transfer case front output has 2 seals. An inner black rubber and outer metal with felt seal.

Rock Auto lists all these seals:
1989 TOYOTA 4RUNNER 2.4L L4 Main / Output Shaft Seal | RockAuto

The National 223840 outer metal seal looks correct.
NAPA was able to confirm and sold me a NAPA/SKF 14730

It looks the same as the National and seems like it fits shaft perfect (38mm x 58mm)

The inner black seal might be a problem though.
National lists the 710689 as a seal for yotas. May fit multiple trucks.
No description of where it fits.

National has this to say under the "also fits" tab:
National Oil Seal

Claims it fits 1985-1995 Toyota Pickups, T100, Tacomas, Landcruiser etc.
Specs say it's a 40mm shaft seal, 58mm outer though.

My original Koyo inner is a MHSA 38 58 (38mm shaft ID, 58mm OD)

I'm looking for the right seal part numbers. Toyota, NAPA...any/all of them.
Will make it easier for the next guy to just drop in and get one locally or Amazon it.

Might as well list the rear seals too. Anybody got this info handy?

EDIT: Found good OEM Toyota part number info and a pic. Thank you Aussie Yota dudes!

90311-38016 - Seal Transfer Case Front Hilux -7/97

90311-38016 - Seal Transfer Case Front Hilux -7/97
Weight: 0.03 kg

Genuine - Japanese Nok brand front transfer case output oil seal for Hilux models -7/97 with clockways directional rotation 38mm x 58mm x 11mm

Price $9.50

Hilux LN46 LN65 LN106 RN36 RN46 RN105 YN65 YN67 1/79-7/97

4Runner LN60 LN61 YN60 YN63 3/84-3/89 excluding automatic models

NOTE - dust seal retainer and dust felt seal will need to be removed to access inner oil seal, new retainer 33145-30010 and dust felt 90303-38010 are also available if required

I still need aftermarket seal numbers.
Looks like you can use the SKF and National metal seals as combined "dust seal retainer and dust felt".

 

[KLF]

I'm curious why you would even consider putting a questionable quality aftermarket seal in a location that is so important, and not that easy to replace?

 

[KoffeeKommando]

I'm curious why you would even consider putting a questionable quality aftermarket seal in a location that is so important, and not that easy to replace?

That's a different speculative discussion entirely.
If you have examples of specific brands of questionable quality seals failing, feel free to make a separate post.

I'm sticking to discussion of OEM or possible alternate part numbers/sources in my thread here. Thanks!

 

[KLF]

Actually I think my question is very relevant.

Why not just use the OEM seal? Call your dealer with the VIN, order the seal. It fits, works well, is the best seal for the job, not some "universal fit". Price can't be that much different.

 

[KoffeeKommando]

Why not just use the OEM seal?

I'm all for using OEM seals myself, but you gotta think about people and their situations.
Assuming there is a local Toyota dealer? What if you're in Dalhart,TX....Maljamar, NM or....Guatemala LOL?

I'm only 1 step removed from those places here.
So it's good to have options for "need it right now". s*** happens.
I'm thinking about the other people reading these posts into the future, not just my own needs.

I ordered the OEM inner seal off Amazon, $8 more than dealer but it's gonna fly itself to my door.
No need to drive the 30 miles each way into town to Yota dealer with my 80 Series.

I have a NAPA 5 miles away even in a tiny town of 1200 people.
Sometimes you don't have the luxury to wait forever for a Holy Grail OEM part.
Supposed "bad quality" be damned on occasion. I'm waiting for proof of all the horrible, horrible USA made seal horror stories anyway.

None is gonna be forthcoming I'm thinkin.

DEVO did nail it, "I say it again, in the Land Of The Free...use your freedom of choice"

 

[KoffeeKommando]

Now back to the seal discussion:

Marlin Crawler sells their HD rear transfer output seal for $10
HD Transfer Case Rear Output Seal | Marlin Crawler, Inc.

This HD Output Seal fits all 1979-95 4-cylinder gear drive (RF1A) transfer cases...
Optionally, this rear EcoSeal can be used as a front output seal. Simply replace the factory dust shield with this EcoSeal!

Ok cool, the seal can be used on front or rear of transfer case. It replaces both front seal parts (dust felt + retainer, inner oil seal).

It's got a dual lip design. Marlin said on the phone that their inner lip is non directional.
OEM front inner seal has clockwise arrow marking.

So, the Marlin seal would be a simple option.

The odd thing is that when you buy a transfer case from Marlin, they come with only the rear HD Eco Seal, not the front. Why not just use their own seals front and rear?

Their gasket and seal kits for the RF1A case include the HD rear seal, but only the front felt, not the metal "retainer" you also may need.

As always, this stuff is confusing when it does not need to be.

The Marlin rep also claimed "other seals suck", so the anecdotes pile up.
I do know my OEM Toyota seal died at 178,000-ish so maybe it sucks as well LOL.

The OEM Toyota 22RE plastic timing chain guide didn't last either
So much for "legendary reliability".
Glad I went with a Beck-Arnley Taiwan made all metal replacement!

2017...the year of living dangerously. I'll be sure to post when it goes bad

 

[KoffeeKommando]

OEM Toyota RF1A transfer case output seal part numbers (up to 7/97 Aussies say)
Verified all part numbers with Toyota dealer by phone 11/6/2017

33145-30010 - Retainer (metal dust shield) - $3.20
90303-38010 - Dust felt (fits in retainer) - $3.33
90311-38016 - Front Transfer Case Inner Oil Seal - $9.77


90311-38140 - Rear Transfer Case Inner Oil Seal - $9.77

 

[KLF]

I'm waiting for proof of all the horrible, horrible USA made seal horror stories anyway.

None is gonna be forthcoming I'm thinkin.

Not so fast. Had to get in front of a computer this morning to dig up this photo.

When I bought my FJ62 (in 2000), it had a bunch of work done on it, including a rebuilt engine (someone didn't pay attention when the infamous galley oil plug popped out on the highway) and fresh ARB lockers in both diffs. It took about a year, and it started to spring leaks. Everywhere. Front and rear main seals, pinions, transfer front and rear, it leaked. I hate leaks. So I started tearing it apart as I had time.

I found that the guy that did the work (he ran a shop in Sommerville MA that supposedly specialized in Cruiser work) used all cheap aftermarket seals everywhere.

In 2003 I finally got around to pulling the diffs, it was time to re-gear to 4.88s anyway. Both diffs leaked from around the pinions.

Aftermarket seal on the left, OEM seal on the right:

Note how the OEM seal has a rigid metal ring, plus an extra dust "lip" that extends into the flange. The aftermarket seals don't have that. After that, every time I bought a diff setup kit, the seal in the box went into the trash. Same for timing set kits from engnbldr, FelPro, etc. OEM seals only.

Last I knew, USPS serves every address in the US.

"Friends don't let friends install cheap parts store seals"

 

[pappy]

"Friends don't let friends install cheap parts store seals"

I'm going to back KLF up here. The only two seal brands I will used on my truck are OEM, and the axle seals from Marlin. Period. While I don't have the pictures to back me up, I can tell you the Felpro head gaskets are junk. I've had three fail, all installed by professional shops. I've also learned my lesson on front crank seals. While the OEM seal is a skinny guy it seals way better, and for longer, than the Fel Pro/National/Federal Mogul seals that appear to be more robust. Several years ago I had a Fel Pro 710345 fail catastrophically on me. Lesson learned.

Also, you are arguing with the wrong crowd here. Many of us here have been working on our junk for a long time. In fact, I'll bet I've been working on my stuff for longer than you have been alive (since 1984). We have learned the hard way and have no problem telling folks when we think they are making a mistake.

Also, there are times where aftermarket might be OK. See this thread I started in 2014. Toyota doesn't make everything it puts in their cars and trucks, and sometimes the OEM providers do sell product aftermarket. Denso and Aisin come to mind.

OEM vs. Aftermarket, when it's OK

OK, enough. Now to head over to that thread for a little update that will give you boys a woody.

 

[KoffeeKommando]

Also, you are arguing with the wrong crowd here. Many of us here have been working on our junk for a long time. In fact, I'll bet I've been working on my stuff for longer than you have been alive (since 1984). We have learned the hard way and have no problem telling folks when we think they are making a mistake.

Did you ever see me make a claim that aftermarket seals were good?
If so, then that would be an argument. Asking for proof is not an argument.
It's a challenge of sorts to some people I guess.

Who are you guys? I don't automatically assume you are some authority.
The proof is in the info you give. Data, pics.
Who am I? You assume way too much. In fact, you lost your "bet" bigtime.

You know what Buckminster Fuller said one time? "Dare to be naive."
It takes balls to ask "Why?". Because you get hostile responses.
Humility is missing.

I'm glad you and KLF came up with some stories. That's what needed to be typed first.
Good solid info you can sink your teeth into.

It's nothing to tell people they are making a mistake. It does take effort to tell them why.
As everyone can see, I posted good detailed info that's gonna help somebody later.
That's the bottom line.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

I think the point of this thread was to list alternate part numbers for when you're in a pinch, and just need to get back on the road. Not to debate the quality of OEM vs. aftermarket.

If any of us thought aftermarket parts were good enough we'd be driving a different brand of truck.

 

[KoffeeKommando]

I think the point of this thread was to list alternate part numbers for when you're in a pinch, and just need to get back on the road. Not to debate the quality of OEM vs. aftermarket.

If any of us thought aftermarket parts were good enough we'd be driving a different brand of truck.

Absolutely.

 

[steffan]

just to keep beating the dead horse, i've replaced lots of aftermarket seals for factory (toyota & honda) and there's no comparison on quality especially when your looking at parts that are less than $10. since i got that off my chest, i find it's just as easy to call one of the reputable toyota dealers instead of rock auto (love the place - purchased many items there) or amazon. camelback toyota in arizona is a great example (not affiliated): opened long hours, 6 days a week, reasonable shipping and very knowledgable staff that can look up parts etc ship them the same day. just another option

 

[jgranthevagrant]

I live in close proximity to several Toyota dealers. I often double my parts orders on seals and other small parts. Saves me time going back in, and I worry that they might discontinue the 1990 parts. Also, they tend to give me a discount. Some sort of sympathy policy.